Scaling Circular Fashion in North America: Part 2

What will it take to transition the fashion industry toward circularity at scale?

The need for urgent action is clear: While the lifespan of individual garments dwindles, the environmental footprint of the apparel industry continues to grow. But where there’s inefficiency, there’s often opportunity. From renewable and recycled inputs to new business models such as repair, rental and recommerce to end of life management and more — like enabling technologies, policies and partnerships — the apparel industry is ripe for a makeover. Building off the aspirational ‘future of circular fashion’ explored in part one, part two of this two-part session will focuses on redesigning the apparel industry of today, unlocking untapped value and scaling circular fashion in the North American market.

A continuation of Part 1: https://youtu.be/_lTD3p5g6rA

Speakers

  • Beth Esponnette, Cofounder, Unspun
  • Beth Rattner, Executive Director, Biomimicry Institute
  • Debbie Shakespeare, Senior Director Sustainability, Compliance & Core PLM, Avery Dennison

Holly Secon
Mon, 09/14/2020 – 23:11

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How the climate crisis will crash the economy
Joel Makower
Mon, 09/14/2020 – 02:11

The chickens are coming home to roost.

Even before the western United States became a regional inferno, even before the Midwest U.S. became a summertime flood zone, even before an annual hurricane season so bad that the government is running out of names to attach to them, even before Colorado saw a 100 degrees Fahrenheit heatwave swan dive into a 12-inch snowstorm within 48 hours.

Even before all that, we’d been watching the real-world risks of climate change looming and growing across the United States and around the world. And the costs, financially and otherwise, are quickly becoming untenable.

Lately, a steady march of searing heat, ruinous floods, horrific wildfires, unbreathable air, devastating hurricanes and other climate-related calamities has been traversing our screens and wreaking havoc to national and local budgets. And we’re only at 1C of increased global temperature rise. Just imagine what 2C or 3C or 4C will look like, and how much it will cost.

We may not have to wait terribly long to find out.

It’s natural to follow the people affected by all this: the local residents, usually in poorer neighborhoods, whose homes and livelihoods are being lost; the farmers and ranchers whose crops and livestock are withering and dying; the stranded travelers and the evacuees seeking shelter amid the chaos. And, of course the heroic responders to all these events, not to mention an entire generation of youth who fear their future is being stolen before their eyes, marching in the streets. So many people and stories.

But lately, I’ve been following the money.

The financial climate, it seems, has been as unforgiving as the atmospheric one. Some of it has been masked by the pandemic and ensuing recession, but for those paying attention, the indicators are hiding in plain sight. And what we’re seeing now are merely the opening acts of what could be a long-running global financial drama. The economic impact on companies is, to date, uncertain and likely incalculable.

The financial climate, it seems, has been as unforgiving as the atmospheric one.

Last week, a subcommittee of the U.S. Commodity Futures Trading Commission (CFTC) issued a report addressing climate risks to the U.S. financial system. That it did so is, in itself, remarkable, given the political climes.

But the report didn’t pussyfoot around the issues: “Climate change poses a major risk to the stability of the U.S. financial system and to its ability to sustain the American economy,” it stated, adding:

Climate change is already impacting or is anticipated to impact nearly every facet of the economy, including infrastructure, agriculture, residential and commercial property, as well as human health and labor productivity. Over time, if significant action is not taken to check rising global average temperatures, climate change impacts could impair the productive capacity of the economy and undermine its ability to generate employment, income and opportunity.

Among the “complex risks for the U.S. financial system,” the authors said, are “disorderly price adjustments in various asset classes, with possible spillovers into different parts of the financial system, as well as potential disruption of the proper functioning of financial markets.”

In other words: We’re heading into uncharted economic territory.

Climate change, said the report’s authors, is expected to affect “multiple sectors, geographies and assets in the United States, sometimes simultaneously and within a relatively short timeframe.” Those impacts could “disrupt multiple parts of the financial system simultaneously.” For example: “A sudden revision of market perceptions about climate risk could lead to a disorderly repricing of assets, which could in turn have cascading effects on portfolios and balance sheets and therefore systemic implications for financial stability.”

Sub-systemic shocks

And then there are “sub-systemic” shocks, more localized climate-related impacts that “can undermine the financial health of community banks, agricultural banks or local insurance markets, leaving small businesses, farmers and households without access to critical financial services.” This, said the authors, is particularly damaging in areas that already are underserved by the financial system, which includes low-to-moderate income communities and historically marginalized communities.

As always, those least able to least afford the impacts may get hit the hardest.

This was hardly the first expression of concern about the potentially devastating economic impacts of climate change on companies, markets, nations and the global economy. For example:

  • Two years ago, the Fourth National Climate Assessment noted that continued warming “is expected to cause substantial net damage to the U.S. economy throughout this century, especially in the absence of increased adaptation efforts.” It placed the price tag at up to 10.5 percent of GDP by 2100.
  • Last month, scientists at the Potsdam Institute for Climate Impact Research said that while previous research suggested that a 1C hotter year reduces economic output by about 1 percent, “the new analysis points to output losses of up to three times that much in warm regions.”
  • Another report last month, by the Environmental Defense Fund, detailed how the financial impacts of fires, tropical storms, floods, droughts and crop freezes have quadrupled since 1980. “Researchers are only now beginning to anticipate the indirect impacts in the form of lower asset values, weakened future economic growth and uncertainty-induced instability in financial markets,” it said.

And if you really want a sleepless night or two, read this story about “The Biblical Flood That Will Drown California,” published recently in Mother Jones magazine. Even if you don’t have a home, business or operations in the Golden State, your suppliers and customers likely do, not to mention the provenance of the food on your dinner plate.

Down to business

The CTFC report did not overlook the role of companies in all this. It noted that “disclosure by corporations of information on material, climate-related financial risks is an essential building block to ensure that climate risks are measured and managed effectively,” enabling enables financial regulators and market participants to better understand climate change’s impacts on financial markets and institutions.

However, it warned, “The existing disclosure regime has not resulted in disclosures of a scope, breadth and quality to be sufficiently useful to market participants and regulators.”

An analysis by the Task Force on Climate-related Financial Disclosure found that large companies are increasingly disclosing some climate-related information, but significant variations remain in the information disclosed by each company, making it difficult for investors and others to fully understand exposure and manage climate risks.

The macroeconomic forecasts, however gloomy, likely seem academic inside boardrooms. And while that may be myopic — after all, the nature of the economy could begin to shift dramatically before the current decade is out, roiling customers and markets — it likely has little to do with profits and productivity over the short time frames within which most companies operate. Nonetheless, companies with a slightly longer view already are considering the viability of their products and services in a warming world.

Consider the recommendations of the aforementioned CFTC report, of which there are 20. Among them:

  • “The United States should establish a price on carbon.”
  • “All relevant federal financial regulatory agencies should incorporate climate-related risks into their mandates and develop a strategy for integrating these risks in their work.”
  • “Regulators should require listed companies to disclose Scope 1 and 2 emissions. As reliable transition risk metrics and consistent methodologies for Scope 3 emissions are developed, financial regulators should require their disclosure, to the extent they are material.”
  • The Financial Stability Oversight Council “should incorporate climate-related financial risks into its existing oversight function, including its annual reports and other reporting to Congress.”
  • “Financial supervisors should require bank and nonbank financial firms to address climate-related financial risks through their existing risk management frameworks in a way that is appropriately governed by corporate management.”

None of these things is likely to happen until there’s a new legislature and presidential administration in Washington, D.C., but history has shown that many of these can become de facto regulations if enough private-sector and nongovernmental players can adapt and pressure (or incentivize) companies to adopt and hew to the appropriate frameworks.

Finally, there is collaboration among the leading nongovernmental organizations focusing on sustainability reporting and accountability.

And there’s some news on that front: Last week, five NGOs whose frameworks, standards and platforms guide the majority of sustainability and integrated reporting, announced “a shared vision of what is needed for progress towards comprehensive corporate reporting — and the intent to work together to achieve it.”

CDP, the Climate Disclosure Standards Board, the Global Reporting Initiative, the International Integrated Reporting Council and the Sustainability Accounting Standards Board have co-published a shared vision of the elements necessary for more comprehensive corporate reporting, and a joint statement of intent to drive towards this goal. They say they will work collaboratively with one another and with the International Organization of Securities Commissions, the International Financial Reporting Standards Foundation, the European Commission and the World Economic Forum’s International Business Council.

Lots of names and acronyms in the above paragraph, but you get the idea: Finally, there is collaboration among the leading nongovernmental organizations focusing on sustainability reporting and accountability. To the extent they manage to harmonize their respective standards and frameworks, and should a future U.S. administration adopt those standards the way previous ones did the Generally Accepted Accounting Principles, we could see a rapid scale-up of corporate reporting on these matters.

Increased reporting won’t by itself mitigate the anticipated macroeconomic challenges, but to the extent it puts climate risks on an equal footing with other corporate risks — along with a meaningful price on carbon that will help companies attach dollar signs to those risks — it will help advance a decarbonized economy.

Slowly — much too slowly — but amid an unstable climate and economy we’ll take whatever progress we can get.

I invite you to follow me on Twitter, subscribe to my Monday morning newsletter, GreenBuzz, and listen to GreenBiz 350, my weekly podcast, co-hosted with Heather Clancy.

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The financial climate, it seems, has been as unforgiving as the atmospheric one.
Finally, there is collaboration among the leading nongovernmental organizations focusing on sustainability reporting and accountability.

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How BASF’s reciChain aims to improve traceability of recycled plastics

The vision for BASF’s reciChain project is to take circularity into the real world by increasing traceability of recycled plastics. The company created a plastic additive that enables the traceability.

Mitchell Toomey, director of sustainability for North America at BASF, shared an example of how it could work on a laundry detergent bottle: “Once that product goes to the end of its life and goes into recycling, it can be scanned an tracked at that point in time to give the recycler some information about what it contains,” he said, noting that the tracker could show the types of resins and plastics the packaging is made of.

Toomey added that once a product is recycled, the tracker can be maintained through multiple uses. The pilot will need to be scaled to have a big impact but BASF is already working with partners across the value chain.

“We believe by showing this proof of concept and showing that such a tracking material could actually work, we could revolutionize how sorting and recycling goes,” Toomey said.

John Davies, vice president and senior analyst at GreenBiz, interviewed Mitchell Toomey, director of sustainability for North America at BASF, during Circularity 20, which took place on August 25-27, 2020. View archived videos from the conference here.

Deonna Anderson
Sat, 09/12/2020 – 14:47

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On Eastman’s mass balance protocol, transparency and keeping materials out of landfills

Eastman wants to prove to the world that waste can be valuable. That’s according to Scott Ballard, vice president of specialty plastics at the company.

“We believe the world has an urgent waste problem and like many others, we also believe a circular economy is the only reasonable solution,” Ballard said. “For that to happen, there’s a massive amount of change, innovation and collaboration that has to take place.”

Heather Clancy, editorial director at GreenBiz, interviewed Scott Ballard, vice president of specialty plastics at Eastman, during Circularity 20, which took place on August 25-27, 2020. View archived videos from the conference here.

Back in March, Joel Makower, GreenBiz executive editor, visited Eastman’s sprawling industrial site, covering roughly 900 acres in Kingsport, Tennessee. Read his story ‘Inside Eastman’s moonshot goal for endlessly circular plastics.’

Deonna Anderson
Fri, 09/11/2020 – 16:41

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How Avangard Innovative is working to scale post-consumer resin recycling

Since Avangard Innovative came onto the recycling scene 30 years ago, the company has expanded its presence to 11 countries. Its goal is to lower waste costs and what’s going into a landfill, said Rick Perez, chairman and CEO of the company. 

Perez noted that the COVID-19 pandemic has impacted the work Avangard Innovative does. “At the end of the day, you have to pivot your business. You have to find a way to make it more valuable,” said Perez, adding that the demand for post-consumer resin is still present.

Avangard Innovative has piloted and is now scaling its recycling work by building post-consumer resin facilities in Houston, New Mexico and Nevada.

Heather Clancy, editorial director at GreenBiz, interviewed Rick Perez, chairman and CEO at Avangard Innovative, during Circularity 20, which took place on August 25-27, 2020. View archived videos from the conference here.

Deonna Anderson
Fri, 09/11/2020 – 15:16

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Episode 236: Banking for the planet and behind the scenes of Generation Green New Deal
Deonna Anderson
Fri, 09/11/2020 – 09:21

Week in Review

Stories discussed this week (9:30).

Features

Bank of the West’s checking account for climate (23:40) 

In July, Bank of the West, part of BNP Paribas, announced a partnership with 1% for the Planet to launch a checking account designed for climate action. Joel Makower, chairman and executive editor at GreenBiz, speaks with Ben Stuart, Bank of the West’s chief marketing officer, about how the account works and the company’s motivations and goals for the effort.

Behind the scenes of Generation Green New Deal (32:35)

The upcoming feature documentary Generation Green New Deal tells the story of how young people are pushing climate change to the center of American politics. Julian Brave NoiseCat, vice president of policy and strategy for Data for Progress, is one of the young people who has played a critical role in shaping the Green New Deal. Shana Rappaport, vice president and executive director of VERGE at GreenBiz, sat down with NoiseCat. They discussed the biggest misunderstandings about the Green New Deal that are important to demystify and role companies can play in taking climate action. You can read a longer excerpt from their conversation here.

*Music in this episode: “Curiousity” by Lee Rosevere;  “Guitalele’s Happy Place” and “Arc de Triomphe” by Stefan Kartenberg; “Two Guitars” and “Confederation Line” by AdmiralBob77

Resources galore

ESG values and a sustainable future. Why placing environment, social and governance principles at the center of COVID-19 recovery places makes sense for resilience and the bottom line. Sign up for the interactive session at 1 p.m. EDT Sept. 15.

Action plus ambition. How leading companies, including Microsoft, approach audacious sustainability goals. Register for the discussion at 1 p.m. EDT Sept. 17. 

Safety and performance in recycled plastics. UL and HP Inc. share strategies and insights in this conversation at 1 p.m. EDT Sept. 22.

Inside The Climate Pledge. Senior executives from Amazon, Global Optimism and Verizon share insights on why collaborative corporate action on the climate crisis is more critical than ever. Join us during Climate Week at noon EDT Sept. 24.

Clean air in California? It’s easier than you think. Hear from the California Air Resources Board, the city of Oakland and Neste in this session at 1 p.m. EDT Oct. 1.

State of the Profession. Our sixth report examining the evolving role of corporate sustainability leaders. Download it here.

The State of Green Business 2020. Our 13th annual analysis of key metrics and trends published here.

Do we have a newsletter for you! We produce six weekly newsletters: GreenBuzz by Executive Editor Joel Makower (Monday); Transport Weekly by Senior Writer and Analyst Katie Fehrenbacher (Tuesday); VERGE Weekly by Executive Director Shana Rappaport and Editorial Director Heather Clancy (Wednesday); Energy Weekly by Senior Energy Analyst Sarah Golden (Thursday); Food Weekly by Carbon and Food Analyst Jim Giles (Thursday); and Circular Weekly by Director and Senior Analyst Lauren Phipps (Friday). You must subscribe to each newsletter in order to receive it. Please visit this page to choose which you want to receive.

The GreenBiz Intelligence Panel is the survey body we poll regularly throughout the year on key trends and developments in sustainability. To become part of the panel, click here. Enrolling is free and should take two minutes.

Stay connected

To make sure you don’t miss the newest episodes of GreenBiz 350, subscribe on iTunes. Have a question or suggestion for a future segment? E-mail us at [email protected].

Topics

Banking

Green New Deal

Plastic Waste

Deforestation

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Scaling Composting Infrastructure in North America

What will it take to build robust composting infrastructure at scale in the United States?

Composting should be a win-win. In theory, corporations and cities could divert food waste from landfills and create a valuable agricultural product in the process. Yet examples of large-scale composting infrastructure are hard to find in the United States. According to the most recent EPA data, less than 10 percent of food waste finds its way into composting systems. Contamination of waste streams, haulage costs and “compostable” materials that don’t actually biodegrade are all part of the problem. Meet the entrepreneurs, city officials and corporate leaders who are turning things around. Speakers share details of successful composting businesses, systems for scaling up food waste collection and strategies for diverting corporate food waste into composting systems.

Speakers

  • Alexa Kielty, Residential Zero Waste and Special Projects Assistant, San Francisco Department of the Environment
  • Kevin Quandt, Vice President of Supply Chain & Sustainability, sweetgreen
  • Jim Giles, Food and Carbon Analyst, GreenBiz Group 

Holly Secon
Thu, 09/10/2020 – 20:34

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Circular by Design: Physical Criteria for Circular Products

What physical attributes must be considered and prioritized when designing circular products?

When creating circular products, businesses face a daunting task: They must balance product performance, health and safety, regulatory compliance, cost, and a host of physical criteria (such as durability, repairability and modularity) to name a few of the countless considerations — along with frequent barriers. With an ever increasing demand to deliver products to market with speed, effectively evaluating and prioritizing these attributes is a critical yet challenging hurdle. This discussion explores how businesses have balanced physical criteria when creating circular products.

Speakers

  • Joel Makower, Chairman & Executive Editor, GreenBiz Group 
  • Sripriya Narayanan, Product Manager, Cisco
  • Lauren Smith, Product Sustainability Manager, Columbia”

Holly Secon
Thu, 09/10/2020 – 20:26

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Developing a Comprehensive Circular Economy Strategy

How can companies establish an organizational circular economy strategy that’s owned and embraced by key internal stakeholders?

The impacts of circular initiatives can ripple throughout a business and its supply chain, creating opportunity and disruption in its wake. But no matter how visionary or comprehensive, a circular economy strategy will translate into real-world impact only if it breaks through silos and takes hold across an organization. Hear from leaders who not only have established comprehensive circular economy strategies, but also effectively implemented them across their organization.

This discussion explores the structure of different circular economy strategies — including core focus areas, KPIs, ownership and impacts on compensation — as well as actionable tactics to engage colleagues, assure alignment and create cross-functional initiatives without derailing existing operations.

Speakers

  • John Davies, VP, Senior Analyst, GreenBiz Group  
  • Xavier Houot, Global SVP Safety, Environment, Real Estate, Schneider Electric
  • Natasha Scotnicki, Program Manager, Circular Economy, Cisco

Holly Secon
Thu, 09/10/2020 – 20:19

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Return to Sender: Navigating Reverse Logistics

How can companies establish efficient reverse logistics to reclaim products and enable more circular outcomes?

Product take-back programs are commonplace at retailers keen to have customers walk their used printers and sweaters back into the store. Manufacturers commonly offer mail-in programs, and even cosmetics brands have begun accepting empty packaging for discounts on the next purchase. But all this is very old fashioned, and oftentimes the path of used items is not circular, or even sustainable. This discussion examines efforts to modernize take-back and reverse logistics to forge stronger links in a circular supply chain.

Speaker

  • Katie Fehrenbacher, Senior Writer & Analyst, Transportation, GreenBiz Group 
  • Ezgi Barcenas, Global VP of Sustainability, Anheuser-Busch InBev
  • Crystal Lassiter, Senior Director of Global Sustainability, UPS

Holly Secon
Thu, 09/10/2020 – 20:15

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