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Allbirds Director of Sustainability Aileen Lerch has left the San Francisco-based footwear company to become net-zero program manager at Meta.

Lerch exited Allbirds in June, according to a short LinkedIn update she posted recently announcing her new position. Meta declined to comment, citing a policy not to discuss personnel moves.   

Allbirds has not hired a new sustainability head yet. It is evaluating leadership needs for this function, the company said through a spokeswoman.

“Sustainability is not a standalone function, but an integral part of every role at Allbirds — from product designers, to material experts, to marketing,” she said.

Lerch, who reported to Allbirds CEO Joe Vernachio, was responsible for strategy, reporting and developing partnerships to advance its decarbonization agenda. She was hired in January 2020 to develop the company’s rigorous life-cycle assessment methodology, which Allbirds publishes for others to borrow. 

Allbirds uses a software management tool called Carbonfact to closely measure the potential impact of materials substitutions and other decisions. “Why do we even measure these carbon footprints?” Lerch said during the May 2024 episode of the Climate Pioneers interview series. “The key reason is so that we can understand hotspot areas and actions that we can take to make change.” 

The company is pushing to reduce the average footprint for its shoes to 5.5 kilograms per pair by the end of 2025. The industry average is 14 kilograms. In February, it shipped a limited production run of Moonshot, which Allbirds describes as the first “net-zero carbon shoe.”

Allbirds prioritizes the use of natural materials, such as wool from sheep raised on farms that use regenerative agricultural practices, or bioplastics made from captured methane. These factors aren’t generally selling points for the company’s footwear, but they are part of its mission despite a struggle to grow revenue since going public in November 2021. Sales slipped 25.4 percent in 2024 to $189.9 million.

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Each year, companies churn out about three pairs of shoes for each person on the planet. The textiles, rubbers, leathers, plastics and glues in those 24 billion pairs are mostly a waste: Brands fail to design for longevity, material reuse or recycling, so consumers dump some 300 million worn-out pairs in the trash each year.

Shoe production involves more than 200 processes and 60 components on average, contributing to .45 percent of the world’s climate footprint, according to the 2025 Footwear Carbon Report, released in May by the Footwear Innovation Foundation.

“Footwear is one of the most challenging products for a circular economy,” said Alexandra Sherlock, founder of the Footwear Research Network and a fashion lecturer at Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology. “Due to the complexity of construction, multiple materials, scale of production and the need for durability, footwear could be described as the hardest nut to crack. But if done successfully, it could lead the way for other product categories.”

Footwear makers’ numerous attempts at circularity have mostly focused on materials, like Puma’s compostable Re:Suede kicks or Allbirds’ recent limited run of a “net zero carbon shoe.” (Soon I’ll mail back my year-old loaner pair of Asics Nimbus Mirai so they can be ripped apart and recycled.) But if On Running’s sneaker subscription service offers a rare circular business model, other industry players are amping up their efforts.

Seven circular samples

Some of the latest designs for circularity involve 3D printing, next-gen materials free of virgin fossil fuels and compostability. Here’s a sampling of styles, most available for purchase now.

The Adidas ClimaCool 3D-printed shoes recently added laces. Credit: Adidas

3D-printed Adidas ClimaCool slip-ons

Adidas’ ClimaCool sneakers have maximized mesh and vents since 2002. On May 2, the Bavarian brand globally released a 3D-printed version that takes breathability further with a lattice design that’s airy all sides, even the sole. The $140 laceless kicks are reminiscent of jellies from the 1980s, but instead of injection-molded polyvinyl chloride they use a single piece of polyurethane. Adidas collaborated with 3D printing startup Carbon of Redwood City, California on these. A lace-up version becomes available July 15.

In theory, 3D printing could make shoes sustainable, partly because the single material construction simplifies recycling. On-demand production would also cut industrial waste. Despite the innovation potential, however, Adidas does not advertise a takeback program or recycling options for the fossil fuel-based shoes.

The small Brooklyn brand Zellerfeld, by contrast, makes takeback a centerpiece for its $149-and-up 3D-printed footwear. Zellerfeld also collaborated with Nike on its AirMax 1000 3D-printed concept, shown off in November.

Cozy high-tops like Grandma used to make? Credit: Converse

Crocheted Converse Chuck Taylors

Each pair of these $120 high-tops ships in surprise color combinations. These crochet-centric shoes returned to market in the past year after an initial debut in 2019. Upcycled crochet blankets comprise the upper part of the high-tops, but Nike’s Converse doesn’t specify if the material is secondhand, overstock or custom-made.

Beyond the vintage vibe, the rest of the shoe reflects typical construction: polyurethane foam lining, standard rubber vulcanized sole and metal eyelets that don’t break apart easily for recycling.

Cinnamon spice and BioCir, that’s what these sneakers are made of. Credit: Stella McCartney

Cinnamon-sole Stella McCartney S-Wave Sport sneakers

A cinnamon scent wafts from the soles of these $780 shoes, which use waste from the spice tree. British designer Stella McCartney advertises “our most sustainable sneakers ever.” The Piñayarn uppers come from unused pineapple leaves. Israeli startup Balena crafted the “biobased, compostable” sole from its BioCir material, which includes castor oil.

However, an industrial composting facility is required for end-of-use circularity. The recycled polyamide and polyester in the lining and outer upper parts of the sneaker would presumably need to be removed before composting.

This rare modular design allows for customization and longevity. Credit: Methods Footwear

Methods modular shoe

If one part of this shoe tears or a color feels stale, just swap out old parts for new ones. Methods’ modular design features five components: recyclable thermoplastic rubber sole, cork and upcycled shoe waste insole, biodegradable Tencel upper, vegetable-tanned leather wrap and cotton laces. Choose from either a sand or pine-colored shell to contrast a flame or clay accent. The $252 sneakers are made in Portugal.

However, the company doesn’t share on its website how to take these apart and extend their use.

Thousand Fell describes these Court Sneakers for women, and the rest of its footwear, as “zero waste” and “closed loop.” Credit: Thousand Fell

Thousand Fell

These $159 recycled and recyclable sneakers have been around since 2019. They’re made in Brazil with both a recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic and rubber insole. Other parts feature coconut, sugarcane and palm, while aloe vera coats the mesh liner. What’s new as of the end of 2024 is a retail drop-off recycling option. Customers can mail back old pairs to UPS stores using prepaid labels in exchange for a 20 percent credit. TerraCycle and SuperCircle handle the processing and logistics.

The fibers, foams, rubber and other materials are mostly downcycled into things like insulation or flooring, but the companies are investing in their aspiration to enable sneaker-to-sneaker recycling.

The ISPA Link Axis features eye-popping colors and non-virgin plastics. Credit: Nike

Nike ISPA Link Axis

Thousand Fell isn’t the only company seeking to streamline recycling for consumers. Since the early 1990s, the Nike Grind program has downcycled pairs it collects from its Reuse-a-shoe program. The sneaker leader’s latest circularity-centric designs are its glue-free ISPA Link Axis. The $300 pair was re-introduced in April 2024 after an initial drop in 2022. With Gap veteran Alice Hartley newly leading circularity at Nike, there’s likely to be more to come.

The four components of the ISPA Link Axis — outsole, midsole, upper and the “link system” holding the shoe together without glue — are built for ease of disassembly. Everything is recycled already, including Flyknit material on the outsole from recycled polyester and a thermoplastic polyurethane midsole deriving from recycled airbags. That said, the shoe is petroleum-centric.

The Korvaa Shoe offers a dream of eco-materials and on-demand production. Credit: Korvaa Consortium

Concept Korvaa Shoe

Nobody can buy these concept sneakers, which debuted at the Future Fashion Expo in June in London. Yet the Korvaa Shoe marries several innovations, including 3D printing and fermentation. Three companies collaborated on the it: Mushroom-packaging veteran Ecovative of New York grew the mycelium sole in a week. Through microbial fermentation, Modern Synthesis of London created the bacterial nanocellulose upper. Transfoam’s Ourobio of Seattle used bio-based polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) polyesters for the midsole and structural scaffold.

How easily the shoes could be recycled, if they do materialize on the market, is another matter.

What’s next

“If you’re working in this space, start educating yourself on circular design and advocating for less materials, more recyclable materials and the ability to take shoes apart more easily,” said Cynthia Power, a fashion consultant and co-host of the Untangling Circularity podcast.

Aside from individual companies’ innovations, 14 brands including Brooks and Crocs have joined with the Footwear Collective to move such innovations forward. The group, which emerged in February from the Amsterdam nonprofit Fashion for Good, met in June to advance non-competitive collaboration in the industry.

“A circular system around shoes is more important than the design of the shoes themselves,” said Yuly Fuentes-Medel, founder and executive director of the Footwear Collective. “Designers need the right kitchen, recipe and ingredients in order to build circular products that can create new revenue loops. Build a durable shoe, and the product can live many lives. Build a shorter-use shoe with the right recipe, and we can bring the materials back into the footwear supply chain.”

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Scope 3 emissions are a headache in food and agriculture. Large supermarkets stock tens of thousands of products containing multiple ingredients. And food companies have supply networks that span large farming cooperatives and smallholders in developing nations. 

Obtaining primary emissions data from every node in this network is impossible, forcing companies to rely on “spend-based” accounting — use of crude emissions factors to convert dollars spent on an item into an estimate of the emissions generated in its production. This obscures emissions hotspots and makes it difficult for companies to collaborate with suppliers on emissions-reduction projects.

Thankfully, change is afoot. A growing number of initiatives are now focused on making detailed, supplier-specific data available for more and more ingredients and products. Here are three recent developments worth keeping an eye on.

UK retailers are using digital twin technology to track supply chains

Several major U.K. retailers, including Tesco and M&S, track supply chain emissions using technology developed by Mondra, a London-based startup. Retailers link product management systems with Mondra, which creates a digital twin of the company’s supply chain, analyzes the ingredients and draws on a database of emissions factors to calculate carbon footprints for specific products. Mondra defaults to generic emissions factors, but suppliers can log on to the system to add primary data. 

Two years after launch, 90 percent of all grocery market sales in the U.K. involve a product that’s covered by Mondra, said Ian Piddock, the company’s head of product marketing.

Once retailers have visibility across their supply chains, they can then identify potential emissions cuts. Piddock said that Tesco, an early partner on development of the technology, has used Mondra to reformulate its private-label lasagna ready meal to reduce the emissions associated with the product by 18 percent.

By the end of 2026, Piddock expects retailers to begin reporting reductions in total Scope 3 emissions that they have achieved using the system.

Granular data is being integrated into carbon accounting platforms

HowGood is a food systems intelligence company that maintains a database of 90,000 agricultural emissions factors. It’s won customers such as Nestlé and Chipotle by researching specific regions and suppliers to produce increasingly granular data on ingredients. 

“We have over 250 sweeteners in the database that you can pull from,” said Michael Streitberger, HowGood’s head of partnerships. “When you select sugar, you’ve got 40 plus locations of where you could source that sugar, all with different emissions factors and metrics.”

Companies use HowGood’s data to assess the emissions associated with potential new projects. Thanks to a partnership announced earlier this year, customers of Watershed, a leading provider of carbon accounting software, are also using it to compile Scope 3 inventories and identify emissions hotspots that can be the focus of reduction efforts. 

The Watershed link-up is one of around a dozen such partnerships that HowGood has with carbon accounting systems from Persefoni, Salesforce and others.

Retailers unite to simplify data requests

Many retailers want better emissions data from suppliers, but exactly what they want differs from company to company. If retailers could coalesce around an agreed-upon set of questions, suppliers could avoid duplicate efforts and prepare a single set of answers for all to use.

That was the goal of a project by the Consumer Goods Forum, a global trade group for the industry. Working with the consultancy BCG, the forum’s Climate Transition Coalition, which includes Ahold Delhaize, Tesco and other retailers, began by looking for commonalities between the data requests that the companies were making to suppliers. 

“These went from one retailer asking ‘Are you SBTi validated?’ to another asking 160 questions in an Excel file,” said Sharon Bligh, the forum’s director of health and sustainability.

The diversity meant that a single unified data request was deemed impractical. But the coalition was able to agree on the Common Data Framework, which launched in June. The framework defines three levels of sustainability maturity — dubbed Foundational, Expanded and Granular — and specifies a single set of questions for suppliers for each level.

The Foundational and Expanded questionnaires allow data to be aggregated by supplier or commodity, for example, whereas Granular retailers require suppliers to report data from specific plots of land. When verifying the information, Foundational requesters accept self-reported data, while third-party certification is required at the Expanded level and satellite imagery or other more specific data for Granular reporting.

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Amazon’s commitment to become net zero by 2040 — earlier than its rivals in tech and e-commerce — came Sept. 19, 2019, one day before 3,000-plus Amazon employees participated in that year’s Global Climate Strike and 8,700 signed a petition calling for their employer to take action. Behind both campaigns: an activist group called Amazon Employees for Climate Justice.

Today, economic anxiety has made it riskier for employees to speak up in this fashion. But many are frustrated with corporate silence on climate issues, according to those involved in this movement. 

“It will take all of us standing together,” said Maren Costa, a former Amazon employee who co-founded Amazon Employees for Climate Justice and remains on its board. “It will need to be more covert, but we need to build more and more numbers.”

There are groups active at companies ranging from Bath & Body Works to Pinterest, and new networks for sharing best practices. Participation is especially strong at tech companies, and in Europe and Asia where political backlash against ESG has been less severe. 

“The current political climate in the U.S. is not conducive to any climate-positive action,” said Justin Lumpkin, a YouTube software engineer who’s part of an activist network called the Cross Company Alliance that includes representatives from Bath & Body Works and Pinterest, as well as Amazon, Google and Microsoft.

The alliance’s mission is to share best practices for campaigns, starting with a focus on how employees can encourage their employers to create “climate-safe” 401(k) plan fund options. It is using Google as a test case, where the work is supported by more than 1,200 employees. 

If the campaign succeeds, it will likely be replicated at other companies, Lumpkin said. “We are seeking to empower the many employees who want to avoid fossil-fuel investments but are not given an alternative,” he said. “This is exciting because it unlocks a new leverage point on climate action, pushing the financial system towards a tipping point where fossil-fuel assets become as toxic as their real-world emissions.”

Focus: 401k plans, procurement and processes 

Many companies have “green teams” working on internally sanctioned programs such as Earth Day events or zero-waste initiatives. Employee climate action groups are self-organized to tackle more controversial issues, such as advocating fossil fuels-free investment options for retirement plans, pushing for low-carbon procurement policies or campaigning for their employer to fire clients that perpetuate oil and gas exploration and production.  

“The goal of this is to throw more bodies and brains at the problem,” said Drew Wilkinson, a former Microsoft employee who founded the company’s sustainability community and now leads Climate Leadership Collective, a consulting firm. “Enthusiastic employees are never going to be the direct replacement [for sustainability teams]. You’re trying to change sustainability from a thing that one tiny team is in charge of to something that is a cultural value.”

While at Microsoft, Wilkinson and his colleagues Holly and Will Alpine urged the company to reconsider allowing oil and gas companies to use its AI for new exploration and production. Their suggestions weren’t adopted, but they did inspire Microsoft to adopt a corporate position on AI ethics. The experience led the Alpines to leave Microsoft and create the Enabled Emissions Campaign, which aims to hold tech firms responsible for how their technologies enable fossil fuels production.  

Being part of a climate action network is doubly meaningful. “Employees are not alone in wanting to do something, but a lot of folks are feeling that they are,” said Holly Alpine. 

New resource for employee activists

There’s no corporate playbook for integrating ideas and suggestions from employee activists, but there should be, said Alison Taylor, clinical associate professor at NYU Stern School of Business. “My classes are full of frustrated young people that want an outlet,” Taylor said. “If your company is going to discourage this, what are you putting in place? If you’re going to encourage it, what are you really going to do with these decisions?”

The Employee Climate Action Network was launched in June to support corporate activists. It represents 30-plus organizations created to support climate action inside companies. The network’s first resource features more than 100 guides and case studies to help employee advocates — both those just starting out and those seeking to scale their efforts. 

Project Drawdown, for example, contributed a series of tutorials covering topics such as how product designers and sales teams can add climate considerations into their day-to-day work. “You can make climate part of any position,” said Elissa Tikalsky, a senior technical manager at Pinterest who plans to participate in the new network. “You can ask questions about climate impact, mention sustainability in a sales call. You can build this into everyday work.”  

Also included in the resources are a video presentation from former Microsoft employee Wilkinson with step-by-step advice about how to organize a community, and documentation from the founders of Amazon’s employee activist group.   

There is no fee to join the Employee Climate Action Network. “The ultimate goal is to scale the number of employees that are actively working to create change from the inside and to build solidarity across geographies,” said Deborah McNamara, executive director of ClimateVoice, one of the founding organizations. “There are so many people trying to make change; we want employees to find each other.”

The network can help employees prioritize their actions by evaluating which ones might yield an early victory with their employer versus those that might have the largest impact. “Sometimes these are hard to do in combination,” said Tessa Wernink, co-founder of the network and European strategy lead at WorkforClimate, which trains employees on how to create activist networks.

WorkforClimate helps employees influence their employers’ strategy for:

  • Renewable energy adoption
  • Corporate investments
  • Emissions reductions commitments
  • Trade association advocacy and lobbying
  • Procurement policies

“We want to democratize the idea of being an advocate or activist,” Wernink said.

Other network organizations take a different approach. Green Teams Netzwerk from Germany, for example, provides resources for companies transitioning to low-carbon business models. It advocates involving management teams. Some of its 164 members’ employees are interested in grassroots action, but many hail from sustainability roles.

“We don’t tie our hopes and motivation to a specific result, we tie it to the action and people we touch,” said Tim Riedel, founder of Green Teams. “If we do that, and do things we enjoy doing, we are inspired regardless of the bigger picture.”

Editor’s note: This story was updated on July 28, 2025, to more accurately characterize the origins of Amazon’s Climate Pledge. 

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The solar and wind industries have never looked more vulnerable.

Just weeks ago, Congress passed a policy and budget package billed as fiscal reform that, in reality, takes direct aim at clean energy. Critical tax credits are set to sunset in 2027. Foreign content rules that will sharply increase the cost of new projects arrive just as we need to bring huge amounts of new capacity online. Experts warn of 830,000 jobs lost, skyrocketing energy bills and investor confusion.

Clean energy entrepreneurs are resilient. We have all ridden the “solar coaster” over the past two decades. But like hope, resilience isn’t a strategy. We are no longer operating under the radar. Powerful interests have put our industry in the crosshairs. It’s time we take full responsibility for our political license to operate.

This isn’t a policy accident. It’s a calculated attack by our political opponents, threatening not only the economic and social upside of the clean energy transition but also the ability of U.S. companies to secure reliable, advanced energy technologies that future-proof their operations.

And the hardest truth? It passed because we were unprepared.

Despite clear wins in cost, innovation and job creation, renewables remain politically underpowered. Our trade associations play a vital role. But we now spend less on influence and education than we did a decade ago, while our opposition spends more than ever. Real political power demands more: smarter communications, grassroots organizing, clean energy champions in elected office at every level — and above all, money.

It’s time for a wartime footing

The new budget bill wasn’t a victory for the fossil fuel industry. Rather, MAGA politics beat us, by out-organizing, out-communicating and outlasting us in the places where power is actually decided.

We must adopt a wartime footing. Survival requires unity, speed and resourcefulness. Political power can no longer be optional. It must be treated as essential infrastructure.

Wartime footing doesn’t mean panic. It means clarity of purpose and firm resolve. It means that every employee, CEO, subcontractor and policymaker understands they are part of something bigger.

We’ve seen this before. When Saudi Arabia flooded the oil market in 2014 to crush U.S. fracking, American drillers responded like it was a hurricane. They cut costs, consolidated and coordinated — from city halls to Congress. They didn’t just survive. They adapted and came back stronger.

Now it’s renewable energy’s turn. The real fight isn’t in Washington anymore. It’s in statehouses, utility commissions, local permitting battles and public opinion. Congress dropped a bomb, but we can decide where the next battle is fought.

States are the new battleground

This war isn’t over. The balance of power has shifted to the states. From California’s interconnection queue to Texas’ battles over distributed generation, the policies shaping our future are local. State commissions, permitting boards and zoning councils are often dominated by NIMBY voices or fossil-backed interests. We can’t let that stand. That’s where the public is, where the friction lives and where our momentum is strongest — if we show up.

California shows both the risk and the opportunity. With federal support retreating, Sacramento now bears national leadership responsibility. SB 541, led by Senators Josh Becker and Henry Stern, offers a blueprint: lowering costs by enabling smart batteries, EV chargers and thermostats — the same technologies that the Trump administration has penalized. California is doubling down on flexibility, affordability and grid resilience while others retreat.

But the stakes are rising. Grids everywhere are straining from heat waves, AI-driven demand and aging infrastructure. One in six U.S. families is behind on its utility bills. Clean, distributed power must now move from backup to backbone and prove it works at scale.

Meanwhile, Texas offers a case study in post-partisan progress. In the last legislative session, three Senate-passed anti-renewable bills died in committee after a coalition of clean energy employers, rural co-ops and oil and gas groups mobilized. They warned lawmakers that blocking renewables would stall economic growth and raise energy costs.

ERCOT’s numbers back them up: blackout risk fell from 12 percent to 0.3 percent over the last year as solar and battery capacity surged. Prices stayed 24 percent below the national average.

This wasn’t luck. It was organizing. Texas shows that when renewables are treated as infrastructure, not ideology, practical policy follows. That’s the model to replicate.

A worrying shift in public support

Policy isn’t the only thing under pressure. Public support is slipping. A recent AP-NORC poll shows declining enthusiasm for solar tax credits and offshore wind, even among Democrats. Pew reports that Republican support for solar farms has dropped 20 points since 2020. Over 15 percent of U.S. counties have banned or blocked utility-scale clean energy projects.

This isn’t a blip. It’s a warning. Clean energy has the economics. But our narrative is losing ground. And that has political consequences.

When support weakens, it becomes easier for opponents to repeal incentives or spread disinformation. Without voter pressure, lawmakers face no cost for siding with fossil fuel interests. If we lose the cultural narrative, we lose the political mandate.

Four moves to win the political war

1. Shape public opinion with a coordinated media strategy
Too many Americans still believe wind and solar are more expensive than coal, or that batteries aren’t safe. That’s not just a messaging problem; it threatens deployment. The industry needs a unified, well-funded communications strategy to shift public perception and tell powerful stories: EVs keep our air clean, rooftop solar cuts monthly bills and batteries provide resilience in blackouts. Public sentiment isn’t a side issue. It’s core political infrastructure.

2. Mobilize at the grassroots
Showing up means having a steady, local presence. Solar installers at rate hearings. Co-op members writing op-eds. Students organizing school campaigns. When neighbors speak up about energy choices, elected officials listen. We need real people with real stakes, backed by training and support, making their voices heard.

3. Align with workers and consumers — always
Every clean energy message should start with American workers and American families. Clean energy must prioritize good jobs and lower costs. These aren’t competing goals — they’re reinforcing. We can grow union careers and cut monthly bills. Projects from Intersect Power, Form Energy and the DOE Loan Programs Office prove it’s already happening. Every message and policy should reflect that reality.

4. Elect supporters
We need more elected officials who’ve built clean energy firsthand. Leaders like Illinois Rep. Sean Casten, California Rep. Mike Levin and New Mexico Sen. Martin Heinrich bring practical expertise to public service. Developers, entrepreneurs and installers should be encouraged to run in both parties. No one speaks for this work better than those who’ve done it.

Most importantly: fund the fight

None of this matters without resources. The opposition funds advocacy like it funds pipelines. We treat it like a line item to minimize. That must change. We need to invest in organizing, education, regulatory strategy and legal defense exponentially to what we now spend.

Let’s be clear: the Big Beautiful Bill didn’t pass on merit. It passed because we didn’t have the power to stop it.

We’ve already won the battlefield of economics. But politics is not won by Moore’s Law; it’s won by muscle. If we don’t adopt a wartime footing and build the political infrastructure to match, we risk losing everything we’ve created.

But we won’t. Because we’ve learned. This industry is filled with builders—of projects, companies, careers and futures. Now we must build political power too. That means starting small, scaling fast and staying with it for the long haul. We know how to deploy capital, manage timelines and build coalitions. Let’s bring those skills to organizing and show what happens when clean energy fights back.

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Climate emissions leaped by 7.5 percent in a single year in the fashion industry, which now contributes nearly 2 percent of global climate pollution, according to a new report. The jump in greenhouse gases in 2023 — the most recent year for which full data is available — follows a slight decline of 1.17 percent in 2022, after several flat years.

It’s the first time that the annual Taking Stock of the Roadmap to Net Zero report found an emissions spike since its began four years ago with a focus on 2019. Increased use of virgin polyester was a central culprit in the June 23 report from the Apparel Impact Institute (AII) of Oakland, California.

“You read about brands phasing out coal, investing in renewables and working to decarbonize supply chains – and then you see emissions still went up,” said Ryan Gaines, AII’s chief financial officer. “That disconnect is what is most alarming. It shows that even as individual players make progress, the overall system is still geared toward volume, speed and fragmentation.”

“This does not surprise me at all, as the industry has known for some time that the greatest volume of carbon emissions are generated in the making of new goods,” said Lynda Grose, who teaches fashion design at the California College of the Arts. She added that the industry should make fewer new items, especially from fossil fuels, create incentives to cap new product production and boost other revenue-generating means: “Resale of old goods vastly reduces carbon emissions and upfront development costs.”

However, polyester makes up 57 percent of all fibers in fashion, according to the Taking Stock report. Companies used 71.1 million metric tons in 2023, up from 63.3 million in 2022. At the same time, the share of recycled among all polyester fell from 13.6 percent to 12.5 percent. Polyester recycling startups including Ambercycle, Circ, Samsara Eco and Syre are attracting investors and partnering with fashion brands, but they’re still young.

Synthetics drive the rise

Brands should dial up the use of preferable materials, according to the report. And not only must businesses stop knowingly producing more clothes than they can sell, they must also get serious about removing the fossil fuels from their supply chains.

The nonprofit is not alone in its conclusions. In June, the New Climate Institute and Carbon Market Watch determined that no big brands are adequately addressing overproduction. The World Resources Institute, the Boston Consulting Group, Planet Tracker and all manner of sustainability consultants have said as much over the past few years. Instead, fashion brands treat sustainability like it’s out of style, according to the McKinsey State of Fashion report for 2025. It warned that the industry’s emissions could make up 25 percent of the world’s total by 2050.

Credit: Apparel Impact Institute

Producing materials, including textiles and trims, accounts for 55 percent of the industry’s emissions footprint, the AII report noted. Next, at 22 percent, is extracting the raw materials, such as cotton, animal hides and fossil fuels. Processing those materials follows, at 15 percent, and finished production accounts for just 8 percent.

“Sustainability professionals need to stop working on incremental improvements on products in businesses dependent on growth, and start to work on other ways to generate revenue,” Grose said.

Ultra fast and polluting

However, circular business models make up a tiny slice of most companies’ overall sales. Despite the many startups ramping up recycled and innovative materials in fashion — with some support from brands — inefficient business practices and ever-faster fashion are severely hampering sustainability progress, the report noted.

Shein, the ultra-fast brand that has come to epitomize industry excess, enjoyed $30 billion in revenues in 2023 compared with less than $1 billion in 2016. A somewhat less-pilloried example is Lululemon. Despite its investments in recycled synthetics, and reaching 61 percent recycled polyester, the yoga pants leader has drawn attacks from activists because its climate impacts have risen with its popularity. The company’s climate emissions doubled, apace with net revenues, over a three-year period. 

Credit: Apparel Impact Institute

Nobody ever said it would be easy to shrink fashion’s climate footprint, even if many express an aim to try. The number of apparel companies with net zero targets approved by the Science-Based Targets initiative has mushroomed from about a dozen in 2019 to 600 this April.

Moving forward

Corporate sustainability professionals should collaborate across procurement, product design, finance and other teams to develop and implement climate transition action plans that seize urgent, near-term action on emissions, according to Tamera Manzanares, the communications manager for the water team at Boston-based Ceres. 

“Companies tell us that developing and publishing a climate transition action plan is invaluable for building internal alignment and support for an organization-wide emissions reduction strategy that mitigates risk and builds long-term business resilience,” she said.

Points for “cautious optimism” in the AII report included efforts by more brands to reduce their Scope 3 supply chain emissions. The AII wants brands to pool their efforts to provide direct financial support to suppliers for that purpose, including through its Fashion Climate Fund.

The report also praised the rise of regulations in states including California as well as the European Union, and the growth of non-competitive sustainability collaborations.

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It’s a tough time to be a sustainability expert in government or part of a social movement.

A survey by Trellis data partner GlobeScan, together with the ERM Institute and Volans, shows experts are increasingly critical of how key actors are performing in advancing sustainable development. Ratings have dropped most sharply for:

  • Social movements (down 21 percentage points)
  • NGOs (down 16 points)
  • Multi-sector partnerships (down 15 points)

National governments receive the lowest score overall, with only 5 percent of experts rating their contributions as excellent. The private sector also saw its lowest performance rating since tracking began in 2012, with just 14 percent of experts viewing its efforts positively. In contrast, academic and research institutions are gaining recognition, with half of experts rating their contributions positively.

What this means

These findings reflect a broader crisis of confidence in the institutions traditionally seen as drivers of sustainable development. As experts grow more critical of governments, NGOs, social movements and corporate actors, a clear message emerges: current approaches aren’t delivering the scale or speed of change needed to meet today’s environmental and social challenges.

The rise in credibility for academic and research institutions suggests a shift in expectations toward actors that are seen as less politicized, more evidence-driven and better equipped to develop innovative, systems-level solutions. 

Based on a survey of 844 sustainability practitioners across 72 countries globally conducted April-May 2025.

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Technologies to remove carbon from the atmosphere have progressed rapidly. Unfortunately, early-stage funding has not kept pace. 

In 2022, non-profit Terraset set out to close this gap using philanthropic dollars. It has since deployed several million dollars purchasing durable carbon removal from more than a dozen projects that typically aim to capture and store carbon for millennia. Its latest initiative is a revolving fund created to give other carbon removal buyers a pathway to support early-stage projects without taking on early-stage risk. 

Terraset launched its revolving fund in May with a seven-figure anchor grant from the Schmidt Family Foundation. Earlier this month, the non-profit announced the first round of pre-purchases from the fund. Once project developers deliver the verified credits to Terraset, the non-profit will resell to other buyers and return the sale proceeds to the fund to pay for new pre-purchases. 

Purchasing carbon removal from Terraset’s revolving fund is like moving money into an earlier stage of project development, where it can be more catalytic, says Adam Fraser, Terraset’s CEO. “Corporate buyers could look at this as a way of purchasing credits in the same way they might purchase via any platform or direct procurement … but we will plow that money back in to support earlier, riskier projects.” 

The power of pre-purchase

To stay on track with Paris-aligned climate outcomes, we’ll likely need to pull some 7 to 9 billion tons of carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere annually by mid-century, according to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Offtake agreements — commitments to purchase credits in the future — are one of the best tools for building the carbon removal industry, as they provide a strong demand signal to the market. But few offtakes include upfront payments. That leaves project developers scrambling for capital to build their facilities and expand operations to fulfill the offtake. 

But without a playbook for commercial operation of most carbon removal pathways, low-cost capital to cover early development remains scarce. It’s a chicken-and-egg problem: as more projects successfully make it to the finish line, and deliver verified carbon removal credits, investors will gain confidence and the cost of capital will come down. But until then, the lack of early-stage capital remains a major blocker to scale, according to an industry survey Terraset published earlier this year.

The cost curves of many removal pathways exacerbate the problem, as projects have high setup costs and take several years to produce verified carbon credits. 

Source: Terraset survey of carbon removal suppliers, 2025

Despite the need for early-stage funding, Terraset’s conversations with corporate buyers made clear that most aren’t ready to take on the risk of putting down money before credits are ready for delivery. 

In the revolving fund, philanthropic capital provides bridge funding for scaling early-stage projects, essentially moving corporate purchases earlier in the process without asking end-buyers to take on the early-stage pre-purchase risk. 

Project due diligence 

Carbon removal companies can apply to the fund via the Terraset website. Terraset conducts due diligence based on its quality rubric, and leans on the expertise of its carbon council advisory board and other external advisers to provide investment recommendations to management and the board.

The first purchases from the revolving fund come from five companies: Eion, CarbonRun, UNDO, Andes and Charm Industrial. The companies use a range of removal pathways, including enhanced rock weathering and bio-oil.  

“We’re capital-constrained,” said Fraser. “There are companies that have passed our due diligence with flying colors, but we just don’t have capital to purchase from them all.” 

Terraset expects credit deliveries from the revolving fund throughout 2026 and 2027. Then it will begin re-selling credits to corporate buyers looking to include durable carbon removal in their climate strategies and net zero roadmaps. 

Long-term plans 

Fraser isn’t sure what the fund’s long-term financial performance will be, and he’s open to a range of outcomes. If Terraset is able to re-sell the carbon credits at its pre-purchase price, that will create an evergreen fund the non-profit can deploy multiple times, increasing the number of catalytic prepayments it can provide. 

If Terraset is unable to recoup its upfront payments, Fraser — who will speak on a panel at VERGE in October — is still optimistic the fund will have a catalytic impact on the removal industry. “Let’s say we only got 50 percent of the money back,” he said. “It’s still going significantly further than if we do a one-and-done purchase and that’s the end of the road.”

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GSK has committed to reducing more emissions faster than any other large pharmaceutical company. 

Now it has five years left to deliver.

By 2030, the London-based pharmaceutical company has promised to slash direct and indirect greenhouse gas emissions by 80 percent, relative to a 2020 baseline. It did so even though it has the industry’s highest emissions intensity, as measured by metric tons of emissions per dollar of revenue

So far, it is not on track to meet its goals. By 2023, the last year for which it published full data, GSK’s emissions had fallen 12 percent — half the pace it needs to reach its 2030 target. 

Source: GSK Responsible Business Performance Report 2024, ESG Performance Report 2023

But the numbers do not tell the whole story. This profile in the Chasing Net Zero series — our company-by-company look at progress toward 2030 climate goals that kicked off with Nestlé and IKEA’s biggest retailer — reveals that GSK’s decarbonization plan includes two initiatives that, if successful, would lead to dramatic emissions cuts. 

One is common to almost all large companies: GSK is working with industry groups to convince pharma suppliers to reduce the emissions of their products. The news here is mixed: Ingredient manufacturers, many of which are in China and India, have started to engage, but actual emissions reductions have been slow to appear.

The other initiative is a sector-specific project that promises tantalizing results. If GSK can obtain regulatory approval and widespread adoption of a new version of its flagship Ventolin asthma inhaler, it would at a stroke eliminate close to half of its emissions.

GSK declined to make any executives available for this article, but in a recent podcast, Giulia Usai, GSK’s senior director for procurement sustainability, acknowledged the challenge of the 2030 deadline.

“We have less than 60 months to our target; that’s nothing,” she said. “It gives us all anxiety, but at the same time, it helps us prioritize the actions that will give us quicker results.”

The commitment: A big promise from a company in transition

Since taking over as chief executive in 2017, Emma Walmsley has faced relentless criticism from investors complaining that GSK lacks the lucrative pipeline needed to replace products losing patent protection. During Walmsley’s term, the company has fallen from seventh in the industry by revenue to 12th, in part because she spun out consumer businesses in 2022 to focus on lines with higher potential, including vaccines and treatments for respiratory diseases, HIV and cancer.

Despite these struggles, Walmsley has made unusually aggressive climate and nature commitments: 

  • Reducing GSK’s Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions — which totaled 11 million tons of carbon dioxide equivalent in 2020 — by 80 percent by 2030. (The company excluded Scope 3 categories representing 2 percent of its 2020 emissions from its goals.)
  • Becoming carbon neutral by 2030 by using carbon credits to offset the remaining 20 percent of its emissions. 
  • Reducing its emissions by 90 percent from 2020 levels by 2045, a net-zero commitment validated by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi). 
Source: GSK ESG Performance Report 2023

“They really understand the interconnections between health, climate and nature,” said Amy Booth, a University of Oxford researcher studying sustainability in the pharmaceutical industry. She praised GSK’s early commitment to transparency and to address its impact on biodiversity. (The company was the first to publish disclosures in line with Taskforce for Nature-related Financial Disclosures standards.)

“They are one of the better companies at reporting data,” she said. “They report extensively across Scopes 1, 2 and 3, and provide pages of methodology backing up their data.”

The context: Pharma companies are engaged 

GSK is not alone in its industry in setting ambitious climate goals. 

Eighteen of the top 20 publicly traded pharma companies have had near-term commitments validated by the SBTi. Several say they will eliminate nearly all of their Scope 1 and 2 emissions — those from company facilities and from purchased electricity, respectively — before 2030, largely by shifting to renewable electricity sources.

Eight of the top 20 also have long-term SBTi commitments. Seven are based in Europe, where drugmakers face pressure to reduce their climate impact from national health systems and European Union regulations that apply to all large companies.

More than 90 percent of most pharma companies’ emissions lie in value chains, with the largest component of these Scope 3 emissions coming from the raw ingredients in their products. Transportation can also be a significant source of emissions because many drugs require refrigeration, sometimes at very low temperatures.

Here GSK stands out: Its 80-percent Scope 3 commitment is the largest in the industry. The industry’s next highest Scope 3 goal is AstraZeneca’s, GSK’s larger British rival, which has promised a 50-percent reduction by 2030.

Source: Company reports
Source: Trellis analysis of company reports

Scopes 1 and 2: Rapid shift to renewable energy

While Scopes 1 and 2 represent a small fraction of GSK’s overall carbon footprint, the company has made the largest reductions so far in this area, mainly by investing in renewable energy. It is increasingly purchasing electricity from renewable sources. And it’s replacing some of its on-site generators that burn fossil fuels with wind and solar generation systems. 

Source: GSK Responsible Business Performance Report 2024, ESG Performance Report 2023

Last year, for example, GSK activated two wind turbines and a 56-acre solar farm at its plant in Irvine, Scotland. The plant produces a majority of the world’s supply of the antibiotic Augmentin, which is made using an energy-intensive fermentation process. With the new capacity, more than half of the facility’s energy will come from its on-site wind and solar generation.

In addition, the company has made progress in improving the efficiency of its manufacturing processes, especially by reducing the gas leakage during inhaler manufacturing.

Scope 3: Reengineering a problematic product

Source: GSK Responsible Business Performance Report 2024, ESG Performance Report 2023. GSK’s scope 3 reduction targets exclude emissions related to its purchase of capital goods (buildings and equipment) and its investments (partial stakes in some biotech companies and investments in venture capital funds). The excluded categories represent 2 percent of the company’s 2020 emissions.

GSK is the world’s leading maker of drugs to treat asthma and other respiratory diseases, propelled by the success of Ventolin, which it introduced in 1968. Even though GSK’s patents have expired and generics are available, 35 million patients worldwide used the company’s version in 2024, accounting for sales of almost $890 million, 2 percent of GSK’s revenue.

A puff from Ventolin’s ubiquitous L-shaped inhaler offers immediate relief from asthma symptoms. Unfortunately, each puff is also powered by R-134a, a gas that traps 1,400 times more heat than CO2. GSK plans to switch to a chemical known as HFA 152a, made by Orbia, the large Mexican company. The new propellant cuts carbon emissions by 90 percent. 

It’s not as simple as substituting one gas for another, however. The drug formula and the inhaler mechanism need to be adjusted to work with the new propellant. The revised product is now in phase III clinical trials, and GSK hopes to submit the results for regulatory approval next year. HFA 152a is also highly flammable and has to be manufactured with elaborate safety precautions. GSK has started building new production lines for low-carbon Ventolin at its factory in Evreux, France.

“In the medicines sector, changing a product is costly, challenging and not guaranteed,” said Claire Lund, GSK’s vice president of environmental sustainability, on a recent podcast. “We have to work with multiple regulators in multiple countries, and we have to set up a global supply chain.”

Will GSK be able to accomplish the biggest item on its decarbonization checklist? While the results from the clinical trials are not yet available, there is evidence that the new class of propellants can be effective. Last month, British regulators approved a low-carbon version of AstraZenica’s Trixeo inhaler that used a similar propellant. 

Scope 3: Coaxing suppliers

The prospects are harder to assess for GSK’s other major Scope 3 challenge: reducing the emissions embedded in the products it buys, especially the raw ingredients for drugs. These made up 30 percent of the company’s emissions in 2020. With just a 9-percent cut since 2020, progress is well short of the pace needed for an 80-percent reduction by 2030.

In 2021, GSK and six other drug companies formed Energize, an effort to help suppliers reduce their energy consumption. “It took a lot of blood, sweat and tears” to negotiate the legal agreements between rival companies, Usai said. Still, she concluded that “it’s going to be much more impactful to approach our suppliers as a group, as opposed to doing it on our own.”

Last September, for example, Energize negotiated a deal for five industry suppliers and three pharmaceutical companies to buy 560 GWh of renewable energy a year from seven new solar projects in Spain. 

“Energize has gone above and beyond just telling suppliers to do stuff,” observes Booth, the Oxford researcher. “They are actually supporting them to get access to renewable energy.”

Another component of the goods and services challenge — getting suppliers to rethink how they manufacture products — has proven tougher than expected.

“However big and complicated you think the challenge is, it is probably even bigger and even more complicated,” the company wrote in a 2022 report on its climate efforts

For example, GSK discovered the most significant emission sources for some suppliers were solvents, which are energy-intensive to produce and release volatile organic compounds that break down into greenhouse gases. GSK must now reach out to the makers of these solvents to encourage new, lower-emission production techniques.

“Green chemistry has a long time horizon,” observed David Linich, a sustainability partner at PwC. “Many pharmaceutical companies have started exploring green alternatives that have a lower environmental impact than traditional methods, but if you are starting the R&D now, you may not see the benefit for decades.”

It’s also not clear that all suppliers are eager to rework operations so that pharmaceutical companies can report lower Scope 3 emissions. After all, many of them are in countries such as China and India, where they are under less government pressure to cut emissions than they are in Europe. Growing international trade tensions may further discourage cooperation.

“You would think that Big Pharma has a lot of power to tell suppliers what to do, but it’s actually almost the opposite,” Booth said. “There may only be a niche supplier of an active pharmaceutical ingredient, and they can say we don’t need to sell to you because we have other customers.”  

Big pharma companies also have massive, complex supply chains around the world, she said. “Their suppliers are often in countries that don’t have strict environmental regulations. And even if they want to take action, there may not be ready sources of renewable energy.”

Toward 2030: Getting numbers on the board

All this diligent effort doesn’t erase a cold fact: GSK promised to eliminate 8.5 million metric tons of emissions over the 10 years ending in 2030 and, during the first three years of that period, it shaved its emissions by just 1.2 million tons. (The company reported an additional cut of 0.5 million tons in 2024 from Scopes 1 and 2, plus some Scope 3 categories, but won’t release its full 2024 numbers until next year.)

If GSK can replace all of its Ventolin inhalers with its newer model, the company would wipe out another 4.1 million tons, leaving around 2.7 million remaining. To meet its target, GSK would need to reduce its supplier emissions and the other smaller Scope 3 categories by 50 percent. 

There’s little in the results GSK has published so far or in the moves of its competitors to suggest that emissions reductions of this magnitude are possible over the next five years. A “Pathway to Net Zero” graph that GSK published earlier this year shows a slow reduction in emissions through 2026, followed by a drop so steep it would make a hardened roller coaster fan scream. The company declined to answer repeated requests to explain its thinking.

If GSK misses its target, it’s worth remembering the company set itself a bigger challenge than many of its peers. Companies that bet big on sustainability often get criticized for falling short. In this case, that may simply mean falling in line.

GSK, however, is not pleading for more time, at least not yet. In podcast interviews, GSK officials have suggested they initially put more emphasis on laying the groundwork for their reductions than finding savings that would appear in their published disclosures. As the deadline nears, they have a renewed focus on accomplishments they can boast about.

“We know that the projects like Energize are producing real savings,” Usai said. “Now is the time for us to show the benefits of what we’ve been doing to the world.”

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When Keen Footwear phased out “forever chemicals” seven years ago, it was well ahead of bans that took hold this January in California and New York, as well as France and Denmark.

As new regulations drive global apparel and outdoor gear brands to rid supply chains of toxic water-proofing substances, Keen continues to share its detoxification tips with peers. And in May, the company released a short YouTube film (featuring actor Mark Ruffalo) to educate consumers about the PFAS chemicals, such as the per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances linked to cancers, developmental delays and numerous diseases.

These “forever chemicals” can’t be destroyed nearly as easily as they spread to most landscapes and human bodies since emerging in the 1940s from the Manhattan Project.

Now, as Keen continues testing to prevent traces of PFAS from slipping back into sandals and hiking boots, it’s also trying to eliminate other harmful chemicals that pervade everyday products — toxic solvents. The Portland, Oregon, company ultimately wants all of its footwear to be free of the nastiest industrial chemicals.

Keen led the way on PFAS, according to Arlene Blum, executive director of the Green Science Policy Institute. In 2013, the Berkeley, California, nonprofit defined six classes of chemicals of concern that infiltrate consumer products worldwide. “I can’t say enough good things about Keen, but now everybody’s going to have to do it.”

“We didn’t want to keep this a secret, even if it could be seen as a competitive advantage,” said Lauren Hood, Keen’s senior sustainability manager, of its campaign against the chemicals. “We really wanted to bring the industry with us, because we’re not a huge brand, and so we don’t have as much impact on PFAS as the bigger brands.”

How Keen got rid of forever chemicals

Although some fashion businesses are scrambling to satisfy PFAS bans, others succeeded more than a decade ago, including H&M Group in 2013. Patagonia began in the mid-2010s and completed the work this spring. Like those other privately owned brands, Keen acted relatively quickly, according to Blum. It achieved zero PFAS in 2018 after four years of effort.

Early action on PFAS helped Keen build trust among both consumers and its industry, even if a direct impact on sales is unclear, Hood said.

With an estimated $341.9 million in annual revenue and about 1,000 employees, Keen has unusual control over manufacturing, much of which it owns in Kentucky, the Dominican Republic and Thailand.

Since 2014, the brand has invested 11,000 work hours and more than $1 million on its “Detox the Planet” initiative. That included building a chemicals management policy with a restricted substances list (RSL) targeting the six chemical classes: PFAS, certain flame retardants, hormone-disrupting plasticizers, antimicrobials, harmful solvents and certain metals.

In tests, Keen found PFAS in more than 100 parts of its shoes. The stuff wasn’t just in the water-resistant upper textiles, but also unnecessarily in plastic trim pieces and bottom components. Trimming that excess eliminated nearly 70 percent of Keen’s forever chemicals, according to the company.

Keen’s waterproof styles now use other durable water repellents free of PFAS. The chemicals, made by Rudolf and 3M (a longtime PFAS producer with plans to stop by 2026), don’t include sibling versions of PFAS. Some brands used other fluorinated chemicals, but the substitutes turned out to be just as harmful.

Although Keen does not detail its formulations, such alternatives typically use silicone, hydrocarbon or other polymer-based ingredients. The company hasn’t suffered major quality or affordability tradeoffs from the chemical swaps, according to Hood. 

However, PFAS can still pop up in product testing. One culprit, for instance, can be the nonstick molds that suppliers use to cast shoe components.

“We’re trying to test as much as we can, because it’s definitely not a one-and-done situation,” Hood said. “You have to stay on top of it.”

New test methods detect minute traces of PFAS that previously would have gone undetected, which keeps companies on their toes, according to Nathaniel Sponsler, group director of AFIRM Group, an industry initiative that publishes a guide for tackling PFAS. (Based in Northern California, AFIRM stands for Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management.)

“Strict chemical restrictions directly undermine other major sustainability policy priorities such as textile recycling and product durability,” Sponsler said. “As circular economy and product durability policy frameworks take shape in various markets, I expect chemical restrictions — PFAS in particular — to cause more problems and ultimately compete with these other critical priorities.”

Chemicals, design and circularity

“The industry should be trying to reduce or minimize the use of all harmful chemicals,” said Avinash Kar, senior director of NRDC’s Toxics Campaign. “They should be asking themselves if there are safer alternatives and if the functionality produced by the chemicals is necessary for the product to perform its core function.” 

As for all six classes of harmful chemicals, in 2018 Keen phased out PFAS as well as anti-stink antimicrobials and plasticizing bisphenols and phthalates. Heavy metals were gone in 2015. The company was free of certain flame retardants at its founding in 2003.

The last frontier is solvents. Unlike PFAS, solvents remain relatively under the regulatory radar despite being connected with cancers, reproductive harm and organ damage.

“Solvents are indeed the most challenging of the six classes as they are necessary for many steps in manufacturing,” Blum said.

By the end of this year, Keen seeks to be 20 percent free of problematic solvents, commonly found in the glues that hold shoes together, as well as in cleaners, inks and coatings. By 2030, the company seeks to abandon such solvents altogether.

One strategy is glue-free shoe construction, a technology called Keen Fusion, which applies heat and pressure to fuse the outsole of a shoe to its upper part. That solid bond also prevents shoes from coming apart at the sole’s edges. In addition, Keen has tweaked footwear designs to sidestep the need for water-resistant chemicals, such as an internal booty that keeps feet dry.

“Keen is very focused on durability,” Hood said, “making sure our products live the longest life they can and have multiple owners and stay a shoe for as long as they can be a shoe.”

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