In just a few years, carbon removal has gone from a niche interest to an activity that many big companies feel compelled to invest in. 

It’s easy to see why. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) has said that gigatons of removals will be needed to contain global warming. And key standard-setters, including the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), have focused on removals above other types of carbon credits.

Yet purchasing removals is a daunting task. There are multiple technology options, each with its own pros and cons. Prices vary by an order of magnitude 

To help companies get started, we talked to two very different businesses — TikTok and the Japanese conglomerate Sumitomo — that are in the process of building removal portfolios. Here are three lessons for any company considering a carbon removal strategy.

Know all your priorities

Most companies plan to use removals to offset future emissions. But what else is important beyond that? It’s essential to go into the market with a clear vision.

In 2023, TikTok set a goal of going carbon neutral in its operations by 2030. The company figured it could reduce Scope 1 and 2 by 90 percent, and settled on using removals to offset what was left. In addition to a focus on high-quality credits, the company had a less-common goal when selecting credits: It wanted to have creators on its platform visit the projects and spread the word about the work.

“I would hope that we could work with some of our partners to almost demystify some of these conversations,” said Ian Gill, TikTok’s global head of sustainability. “Because it’s very easy to hear about these topics and not necessarily get why are they beneficial.” In practice, that meant creating a global portfolio so that influencers from around the world could get involved.

At Sumitomo, the decision was being made in the context of the GX-ETS, an emissions trading scheme being phased in by the Japanese government. Sumitomo wanted to buy credits both to offset its own emissions and to sell on to other companies in the trading scheme, said Micah Macfarlane, chief supply officer at Carbon Direct, a carbon management firm that worked with Sumitomo. To satisfy government rules on use of credits, Sumitomo wanted to focus on projects that are guaranteed to lock carbon away for at least 1,000 years.

Get help selecting credits

Strategy helps narrow the focus, but buyers are still left with an intimidatingly long menu of options. “Companies are typically overwhelmed by the sheer amount of technologies that exist in CDR,” said Adrian Siegrist, chief commercial officer at Climeworks, a carbon removal developer and broker that helped TikTok build its portfolio.

Only a handful of companies have the in-house expertise to sort through the options. For those that lack such a team, partners like Climeworks and Carbon Direct can step in. Both emphasized the need to do a tough review of the market. Macfarlane says Carbon Direct rejects more than 90 percent of the projects it reviews, leaving the company with 1.6 million tons of credits to offer buyers in 2025.

At TikTok, Gill and team chose a roughly equal mix of direct air capture (DAC), biochar and reforestation. (In addition to advising on removal portfolios, Climeworks is a DAC developer.) They will buy 5,100 tons this year and continue buying annually as they approach the company’s 2030 target. Gill would not disclose how much the company expected to buy in 2030 or the budget allocated, and the company has not published emissions data.

Sumitomo, partly with an eye on a future market for removals, is making a much bigger bet by targeting 500,000 tons this year. The focus on durability means the company’s portfolio will include direct air capture, capture of CO2 from biomass-powered electricity generation and biomass burial, said Macfarlane. The budget for Sumitomo’s carbon removal work is not public, but high durability credits of these types typically cost between $150 and $1,000 per ton.

Think long term

It’s tempting to treat removals as spot purchases, dipping in and out of the market to offset a given year’s emissions. But with high-quality removals in short supply and project developers working to uncertain timetables, longer-term partnerships are critical for now. 

“I want somebody who’s going to come on the journey and help me achieve my objective and my goal,” said Gill. The good news is that there are plenty of options. TikTok started with an RFP — leading to conversations with more than a dozen organizations — before settling on Climeworks. “There’s more people than I thought in this space,” Gill said, “which makes it a difficult choice, but means you have a choice and you can take your time.”

With industrial heavyweights such as Sumitomo getting involved, those choices are likely to grow. The company’s plans show just how big an impact the Japanese government’s climate legislation could have on the removals market. Fewer than 10 organizations have individually purchased a cumulative six figures of removals credits and only three — Microsoft, Google and Frontier (which represents multiple buyers) — have exceeded the half-million-ton mark, according to data from CDR.fyi, which tracks the carbon dioxide removal market.

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Corporate energy buyers bought 21.7 gigawatts of renewable energy in 2024, an annual record that boosted additions to the U.S. electric grid from such transactions to 100 gigawatts since 2014. That’s according to the Clean Energy Buyers Association’s 2024 Deal Tracker.

For context, 1 gigawatt of electricity can support 750,000 U.S. households for one year. 

Just shy of three percent of all renewable generation on the U.S. grid is attributable to some sort of corporate transaction, according to CEBA. The analysis considers publicly reported deals that are at least 20 megawatts in capacity; at least 235 companies have announced deals since 2014. 

Companies negotiate voluntary power purchase agreements and other sorts of contracts with utilities for clean energy so they can use them to reach renewable energy goals and claim greenhouse gas emissions reductions. This practice has become more popular over the past five years.

Clean Energy Buyers Association Infographic

Key takeaways from CEBA’s latest analysis:

  • The Sun rules: Solar power accounted for the vast majority of the 2024 purchases — 73 percent — despite ongoing permitting and grid interconnection delays.
  • Nuclear surprises: Companies procured 1.5 gigawatts from nuclear facilities, about 6.7 percent of total (compared with 7.7 percent for wind). Nuclear energy wasn’t even mentioned in the 2023 Deal Tracker summary. Both Microsoft and Amazon have signed high-profile deals in the past 12 months.
  • Batteries bloom: There was a 300 percent increase in capacity during 2024, accounting for 7.7 percent of capacity added.
  • Geothermal firsts: Google’s 115-megawatt contract with Fervo in Nevada made the list. It uses a new type of tariff to insulate other customers from the cost of investing in an emerging technology.
  • Interest continues to grow: 20 new companies finalized a deal in 2024, fewer than the 28 in 2023 but still notable growth.
  • Half the contracted capacity is operational: 54 gigawatts have been switched on.

What’s ahead

While the Trump administration’s policies favor fossil fuels over renewable generation, clean electricity capacity continues to grow rapidly along with overall global energy demand. The world’s energy appetite surged 2.2 percent in 2024, faster than the average demand growth of 1.3 percent between 2013 and 2023.

Low-emissions generation sources covered most of the capacity increases last year, according to the International Energy Agency. Total worldwide capacity is now around 700 gigawatts. Nuclear power capacity reached its fifth highest level in the past five decades, IEA reported.

Tech companies building out massive data centers for artificial intelligence are at the center of this controversial growth. While CEBA’s report doesn’t disclose or discuss specific companies, Amazon was the single-biggest corporate buyer in 2024 — for the fifth year in a row. 

The tech company has invested in 600 projects to date, including ones in states like Louisiana and Mississippi that have proportions of high-emitting fossil fuels as generation sources. In the latter state, projects backed by Amazon account for 24 percent of solar electricity on the grid.

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The first time President Trump yanked the U.S. out of the Paris Agreement in May 2017, 30 big-name CEOs at companies ranging from 3M to The Walt Disney Co. published a letter urging him to change his mind. This time around, not so much.

“Our business interests are best served by a stable and practical framework facilitating an effective and balanced response to reducing global [greenhouse gas] emissions,” the CEOs wrote in their May 10, 2017, letter. “The Paris Agreement gives us that flexible framework to manage climate change while providing a smooth transition for business.”

But there has been no such coordinated response to Trump’s executive order on Jan. 20 that pulled the U.S out of the multinational pact for a second time — nor does there appear to be a plan for one, according to spokespeople for two of the companies involved in that original campaign.

Not just the usual suspects

Trellis reached out to 29 of the 30 companies to inquire about plans for a fresh letter about the January pullout. Broad Group, based in China, does not publish a centralized media contact and was not contacted.

The 2017 letter was notable for its broad representation of U.S. industries:

  • Consumer products powerhouses Newell Brands, Procter & Gamble and Unilever
  • Financial services and insurance giants Allianz, Bank of America, Citigroup, Goldman Sachs, JPMorgan Chase and Morgan Stanley
  • Food and beverage producers Campbell Soup, Cargill and Coca-Cola Co. 
  • Chemical makers Dow Chemical, E.I. DuPont de Nemours and Solvay
  • Fashion brand Kering
  • Holding company Virgin Group
  • Utility Pacific Gas & Electric
  • Tech firm Salesforce
  • Electric vehicle maker Tesla
  • Media and entertainment company Walt Disney
  • Health care and pharmaceutical concerns Johnson & Johnson and Royal DSM
  • Manufacturers 3M, Broad Group, Corning, Cummins, Dana, General Electric and Harris Corp.

Contacted in recent days, three companies — Harris, JPMorgan and Morgan — declined to comment. DuPont and Salesforce spokespeople said they were not aware of plans for a similar, coordinated letter. Two other companies, Allianz and Virgin, sent broad statements indicating that they remain committed to previously published plans for emissions reductions. 

“These strategies are conceived and implemented over a long-time horizon, and in a way that is not dependent on how administrations change and how political winds may blow,” said Allianz in its statement.

The rest of the companies did not respond to multiple requests for comment.

A new era of silent CEOs

The reluctance to speak up isn’t surprising; companies worry they could become a target of retaliation by President Trump.

The reticence could also signal a shift in leadership style: 18 of the companies have a new CEO since the original letter, as part of reorganizations, mergers or other strategy shifts. Some notable executives who still hold the same title: JPMorgan’s Jamie Dimon, Salesforce’s Marc Benioff, Tesla’s Elon Musk, Virgin’s Richard Branson and Walt Disney’s Robert Iger.

While the silence from business leaders on the need for action on climate change is deafening, some of these companies are finding ways to use their voice — 11 are among the 3,000 business signatories to America Is All In, a coalition that still champions the goal of cutting U.S. emissions in half by 2030 and reaching net zero by 2050. They are: 3M, Cargill, Coca-Cola, Dow, DuPont, Johnson & Johnson, PG&E, Royal DSM, Salesforce, Tesla and Unilever.

America Is All In issued a statement of support for the Paris Agreement on Jan. 20. While no individual company was quoted in that statement, the We Mean Business Coalition described abandoning the Paris Agreement as “a disservice to American businesses and people, opening the door for other major economies to attract greater investment and talent.”

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A new United Nations mechanism for validating high-quality carbon credits has announced its first approval, but carbon experts aren’t celebrating. The inaugural project is seen by many as flawed, and its inclusion highlights a challenge to the mechanism’s integrity goals.

Plans for the Paris Agreement Crediting Mechanism (PACM) were finalized last November at the COP negotiations in Azerbaijan, allowing project developers to begin applying for PACM approval. A quality label backed by the UN could be a welcome addition to the carbon market, where many buyers lack the resources to undertake the due diligence necessary to identify high-quality credits. In some cases, companies have been publicly named as purchasers of “junk” credits that generate little or no climate benefit. 

Following a meeting of the PACM supervisory body last month in Bhutan, we know now the first project to receive the mechanism’s approval: A Myanmar-based scheme that distributes fuel-efficient stoves to communities that cook using wood fires. Switching to improved stoves reduces the quantity of wood the recipients use, reducing deforestation and emissions.

What’s considered sustainable?

The general principle behind cookstove projects is generally considered sound, but the specific project that the PACM approved is not. Calyx Global, an independent rater of carbon credits, last week ranked the project in Tier 3, the lowest of its categories. 

One of the problems with the methodology the project follows is what’s called “non-renewable biomass,” explained Calyx Co-Founder Donna Lee. When estimating climate benefits, project developers must account for wood that will grow back and so should be considered sustainable. Under the methodology used in Myanmar, this estimate was left up to project developers, who had an incentive to downplay the amount of sustainable harvesting in order to maximize the purported impact of the stoves.

The methodology, which was developed by the non-profit Gold Standard, was also rejected this month by the Integrity Council for the Voluntary Carbon Market, another important arbiter of carbon market quality.

This inauspicious start stems from a compromise made as countries haggled over plans for the PACM. China, India and other nations successfully lobbied for credits generated under a previous UN-based scheme, known as the Clean Development Mechanism (CDM), be allowed to apply for PACM approval. The transition window closes at the end of this year, when new and much more stringent rules will be introduced, said Lambert Schneider, a climate policy expert at the Oeko-Institut in Germany and a member of the group crafting the rules. “I’m very confident that such a project wouldn’t pass the new rules,” he added, referring to the Myanmar cookstove credits.

Better baselines

Schneider hopes that the PACM will insist on tough rules governing baselines, for example. To estimate the quality of emissions that a project avoids or remove, developers develop a baseline to compare it to. Many standard-setters allow a “business as usual” approach, in which the impact of the project is compared to the status quo. Schneider is pushing for PACM to insist on a “downward adjustment,” which factors in ongoing changes in the region where the project is based, such as the decarbonization of the grid. He’s also advocating for project developers to be required to apply for credits before they start work, rather than retroactively identifying projects that might qualify for credits.

Yet large quantities of low-quality credits may gain PACM approval before those rules get implemented. More than 1,000 CDM projects have applied for PACM status. Large-scale renewable energy projects dominate the list, according to a 2025 analysis by the NewClimate Institute in Germany. Many of these projects would have been completed without carbon credit funding, meaning they lack what’s known in carbon markets as “additionality.” 

Schneider estimates that low-integrity credits representing hundreds of millions of tons of carbon dioxide could eventually be approved in this way. If they do, he added, buyers should scrutinize the label on PACM credits to determine whether the project was a transfer from the CDM or approved under the new rules.

That kind of due diligence is always worthwhile due to the wide variability in carbon credit quality. Almost all cookstove projects rated by Calyx fall into Tier 2 and 3, for example, but Lee noted that the concept as a whole is not flawed. Indeed, if the problems with the non-renewable biomass estimate were addressed, the majority would shift into Tier 1 and 2. “They can be good projects that have really wonderful sustainable development benefits to women and children and human health,” she said.

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It’s becoming rarer these days to find areas of bipartisan agreement. But according to new research, water pollution and shortages rank among the top environmental concerns globally — regardless of which side of the aisle people are on.

Trellis data partner GlobeScan found that Americans across the political spectrum want businesses to advocate for government action to protect fresh water. While Democrat voters are generally more supportive of corporate advocacy on issues such as climate change or the UN Sustainable Development Goals, there is strong consensus with Republican voters on the importance of safeguarding water resources. Clear majorities of 64 percent of Republicans and 74 percent of Democrats believe companies should play a role in promoting clean water.

What this means

Despite the increasing politicization of ESG and sustainability, the research suggests that protecting shared natural resources such as fresh water remains a unifying issue. With concerns mounting over regulatory rollbacks on clean water in the U.S., Americans may increasingly look to businesses to step up. Companies have a rare opportunity to take a clear stand on water protection — an issue that resonates with Americans across party lines. Ways corporations can do that, according to The Future Water Agenda Report from GlobeScan and The World Wildlife Fund, include:

  • Position water holistically as a connector for more integrated approaches to sustainability priorities
  • Strengthen water stewardship practices across value chains
  • Prioritize and invest in cross-sector action
  • Proactively engage in public-private collaboration, policy advocacy and restoration of nature-based solutions
  • Embrace disclosure and use more compelling communications that link water to tangible improvements for climate, nature and people

Based on a global online study of more than 30,000 people across 31 countries and territories.

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The new draft of the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) corporate net zero standard acknowledges the critical role of companies in mobilizing climate finance and proposes a larger role for market-based climate action tools, such as carbon credits, to accelerate progress. But the proposed updates fall short of what’s needed to meet the scale and timeline of the climate emergency. 

Carbon credits appear in two sections of the draft. First, the draft proposes new near-term carbon removal targets for residual emissions, but only for Scope 1. Second, it proposes stronger incentives for companies to mitigate ongoing emissions on the road to net zero, but leaves this mechanism both optional and vague. 

The draft is not final. SBTi has opened a public consultation period through June 1, 2025.

Removal targets now included 

The draft proposes new interim targets for carbon removal to neutralize residual Scope 1 emissions. Residual emissions are those left at the net zero year, after companies implement all possible emission reduction measures. In most cases, they’ll make up 10 percent or less of baseline emissions. 

To achieve net zero status, companies need to purchase and retire carbon removal credits annually beginning in their net zero year, to neutralize their residual emissions. 

The current net zero standard has no requirement that companies begin funding carbon removal prior to their net zero year — typically around mid-century — nor to estimate what their future removal needs will be. The new draft proposes a more proactive approach, introducing both near- and long-term removal targets that would require companies to ramp up carbon removal purchases on the path to net zero.   

Source: Carbon Gap 2023, Who Can Pay for Carbon Removal?

Scope 1 only

But the draft limits removal targets to Scope 1 emissions only. While near-term targets of any kind are a welcome step, as written they will not not make a major difference in scaling carbon removal, according to Robert Höglund, co-founder of CDR.fyi, a carbon removal market data platform, and a member of SBTi’s technical advisory group. 

That’s because large Scope 1 emitters are less likely to set SBTi targets. Indeed, SBTi will not currently validate targets for companies with direct involvement in fossil fuel extraction. Meanwhile, the bulk of emissions from SBTi-participating companies come from Scope 3 sources. 

Interim removal targets for Scope 1 emissions could create demand for up to 2 million carbon removal credits by 2030 from current SBTi participants, according to an analysis from Isometric, a carbon removal registry. Unfortunately, that’s not nearly enough to bring the planet in line with a net zero pathway by mid-century, a goal that will require gigaton-scale removal. 

What’s more, high Scope 1 emitters typically have the least ability to pay for carbon removal, as they have the thinnest profit margins per ton of emissions. Meanwhile, downstream companies with high profit margins per ton of emissions — such as finance, professional services and technology — have much lower Scope 1 emissions but higher Scope 3. These companies have a unique role to play in helping to scale carbon removal.

SBTi’s reason for not including projected residual Scope 2 or 3 emissions in interim targets is twofold: companies will eliminate all energy generation emissions (Scope 2) by their net zero years, and estimating residual Scope 3 emissions is complex, based as it is on value chain action. But leaving Scope 3 out of interim removal targets means the lion’s share of residual emissions from companies participating in SBTi will remain unaddressed. 

Simplify the calculations  

There’s a simple mechanism to solve the complexity problem. Assuming Scope 3 emissions decrease by 90 percent by mid-century, in line with overall emission reductions, that would leave companies with around 10 percent of their baseline Scope 3 emissions to neutralize at their net zero year. Interim near-term removal targets could start there. 

A simplified calculation like this would avoid placing new, burdensome emissions calculations on participating companies while recognizing the reality of the scope of carbon removal needed to hit climate targets. 

How to address ongoing emissions

Companies will continue to release ongoing emissions on the decades-long path to net zero. They differ from residual emissions, which companies can’t eliminate and will need to neutralize via removals. Both have a large climate impact that will compound year over year for decades. 

The current standard encourages companies to undertake beyond value chain mitigation (BVCM) to minimize the impact of their ongoing emissions, but there’s no requirement nor recognition for doing so. 

Beyond Value Chain Mitigation (BVCM)

Source: SBTi 2024, “Above and Beyond on BVCM”

SBTi’s stated reason for not requiring mitigation of ongoing emissions is that it is aiming to “remain inclusive for companies with varying resources.” This is a surprising explanation. SBTi has never, to my knowledge, mentioned inclusivity as one of its guiding principles. Its publicly stated purpose is to define best practices for science-aligned climate action consistent with limiting warming to 1.5℃ — with no mention of cost. 

The draft says the initiative is seeking new ways to incentivize companies to address ongoing emissions. But this section is among the most vague in the document. Exactly what form this additional recognition will take for companies that choose to mitigate ongoing emissions isn’t defined. 

Similarly, the method by which companies can address their ongoing emissions is also left undefined, but will likely follow one of the options described by SBTi in its report on this topic last year. They are a money-for-ton (or ton-for-ton) approach and using carbon credits to funnel investment into projects that accelerate global climate progress.  

A framework that unleashes climate finance

SBTi is clearly listening. Adding interim carbon removal targets and strengthening recommendations around mitigating ongoing emissions are signs the body is heeding the steady drumbeat of requests from the climate community to open up all mechanisms for global climate action. 

But the draft, as written, hamstrings itself. Including Scope 3 in interim carbon removal targets, and requiring action on ongoing emissions, would transform SBTi’s net zero standard into a mechanism that could unleash one of the most powerful untapped tools for climate action: private finance. 

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Amazon will let companies that have adopted comprehensive emissions reduction goals buy “high integrity” carbon credits generated by carbon removal projects already backed by the $638 billion e-commerce and cloud services company.

The new strategy, announced March 19, applies only to companies cutting greenhouse gas emissions across all three categories: Scope 1 (their own operations), Scope 2 (purchased electricity) and Scope 3 (indirect sources across their supply chain). It’s also available to the 550 signatories of the Climate Pledge, i.e., companies aiming to achieve net-zero status by 2040.

Companies that have already signed up include photo service Flickr, real estate firms Ryan Companies and Seneca Group, consumer electronics maker Corsair, office furniture supplier Steelcase and tech consulting firm Slalom. Interested companies can fill out this form.

“At Flickr and SmugMug, we invest in a number of nature-based solutions for impact beyond just carbon, but they often lack credibility,” said Flickr COO and President Ben MacAskill, in a statement. “Amazon’s expertise and scientific rigor means our team can meet our climate goals with confidence.”

Amazon’s in-house carbon project review process

Amazon is investing heavily in nature-based approaches for sequestering excess CO2 in the atmosphere, and it created its own methodology for evaluating them. That approach, called Abacus, considers issues such as durability (how long the trees are likely to last) and leakage (when a forest restoration project causes deforestation elsewhere).  

“We’re using our size and high vetting standards to help promote additional investments in nature, and we are excited to share this new opportunity with companies who are also committed to the difficult work of decarbonizing their operations,” said Amazon Chief Sustainability Officer Kara Hurst, in the March 19 announcement.

Amazon doesn’t disclose how many carbon credits it buys or retires annually to neutralize emissions. Nor is it revealing how many credits will be available through the new service, an Amazon spokesperson said. The first credits are from Amazon’s relationship with the LEAF Coalition, which has committed $1 billion to development in countries including Brazil.

Amazon reduced its emissions 3 percent year over year in 2023, primarily because of its expansive renewable energy purchases, but its footprint has increased 34.5 percent since its 2019 baseline year.

More than 75 percent of Amazon’s emissions come from Scope 3. The company has prioritized encouraging reductions from a list of high-emitting suppliers that contribute about half of that amount. This new service will support those efforts, although Amazon wants its partners to focus first on efforts to decarbonize their operations. Amazon won’t profit from this program, the spokesperson said.  

Aside from nature-based projects, Amazon has invested in one of the world’s largest direct air capture facilities. The installation by 1PointFive, under construction in Texas, is expected to capture up to 500 million metric tons of CO2 annually when complete. Amazon has committed to buying 250,000 metric tons of that capacity.  

Amazon’s bar for defining high-integrity is less comprehensive than the one set by the Voluntary Carbon Markets Initiative, which guides companies on how to use voluntary carbon markets for net-zero commitments, but it’s a step in the right direction, said Mark Kenber, the nonprofit’s executive director.

“Amazon’s new carbon credit service is a welcome development in scaling the voluntary carbon market,” Kenber said.

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Waste was already baked into apparel business models long before social media influencers made styles lose their coolness on a weekly rather than a seasonal basis. But even as fast fashion drives unprecedented waste, many brands, retailers and startups are slowly advancing circular business models that keep garments in use.

New software startups are rescuing less-than-perfect items, revealing details through artificial intelligence about how brands, retailers and consumers behave. These emerging services are pitching new efficiencies that help to restore or customize clothes, shoes and accessories that otherwise go stale in warehouses, closets or landfills.

In New York, Alternew seeks to streamline consumer repairs and alterations, while Revive is flipping returned goods into new sales for brands. Other repair and refurbishment ventures: Suay Sew Shop formed in 2017 in Los Angeles; Mendit opened in 2019 in Houston; Sojo formed in London in 2020, as did ReCircled in Denver; and Circulo came to life in the U.K. in 2024. And this past February, the Loom app debuted to connect people with designers to “upcycle” their clothes. Tersus Solutions spiffs up used clothes and shoes for scores of branded resale portals.

Of course, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s long ago set the bar in retail by offering customers alterations at most stores. And starting 20 years ago, brands such as Levi’s, Patagonia and The North Face launched free or low-cost repair programs, while more recently Ralph Lauren, Arc’teryx, Dr. Martens, Timberland and Reformation have followed. Meanwhile, in addition to its no-cost consumer repairs, Eileen Fisher offers special Mended collections that concoct new garments out of spare parts from old ones.

Low-hanging opportunities

All of these companies are pursuing a share of repair as a business opportunity, one that is attracting even more interest lately as tariffs bring turmoil to supply chains and legislation here and abroad around end-of-life textile management adds pressure on brands.

  • The market for fashion repairs, which has been growing by 2.5 percent annually, will expand from $3.6 billion in 2024 to $4.5 billion by 2033, according to Business Research Insights.
  • Circular business models, including repairs and reuse, could reach $700 billion by 2030, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation projected in 2021. That’s more than 20 percent of the worldwide fashion market.
  • As clothing production has doubled in the first 15 years of this century, the average number of times that someone wears a garment has dropped by 36 percent.

“Even with production separated from consumption, the negative impacts of fashion’s environmental footprint are becoming harder to ignore,” said former Timberland executive Ken Pucker, a business instructor at Tufts and Dartmouth universities. “Images of trashed clothing, consequences of microfiber release and accelerating carbon emissions compromise the planet and, ultimately, the viability of the industry.”

Recent research has quantified that repairs have more power than secondhand sales to prevent or delay new purchases. Eighty-two percent of repair services displace the purchase of a factory-fresh garment, compared with 60 percent for resale services, according to the nonprofit Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP). It saves 16 pounds of CO2, roughly equivalent to driving a gasoline car for 20 miles, to repair a cotton T-shirt instead of buying a new one, the report found.

Alternew: connecting brands, consumers and tailors

“There’s a landfill out there with my name on it that I’m personally responsible for,” jokes Nancy Rhodes, cofounder and CEO of Alternew. The former footwear designer’s creations, including for Beyoncé’s House of Dereon and Kenneth Cole, sold at Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Marshall’s and Costco.

Now she’s building a matchmaking service for brands, consumers and tailors. Alternew, which captured $2 million in pre-seed funding in September, is working on a pilot with New York womenswear label Faherty. Brands Everlane and Moose Knuckles are interested in partnering, too.

Retailers spend hundreds of billions of dollars on “returns and churns,” and brands spend billions to lure customers to the register only to lose them after the sale, she noted. “Seventy percent of all apparel returns are due to poor fit,” Rhodes said. “The fashion industry has a 26 percent retention rate when using care and repair services as a brand. There’s data from the market that says a customer is 73 percent more likely to go back to the store within the year based on the services.”

Rhodes described a shopping experience that Alternew would prevent: You try on a pair of pants in a store, but they’re too long, so you walk out empty handed. “Instead of losing the sale, the store associate logs an alteration request immediately [on Alternew], matching you with a local, vetted tailor on our platform, you get a text notification with appointment details, pricing, and then real-time updates.”

That’s an opening for brands to differentiate themselves, according to Rhodes: “Care and repair are an intrinsic core solution to creating an authentic, holistic and circular experience for the consumer.”

Alternew can also provide companies new insights into their merchandise. For instance, maybe 20 zippers on a denim jacket broke across the country, or a high percentage of New England buyers hemmed wide-legged linen pants by 4 inches.

And Rhodes bets that by making it easier for consumers to hem pants or seal busted seams, more people will continue wearing their favorite brands.

“We started by creating a business in a box for tailors, and that allows us to get proprietary data that doesn’t exist today, so we can match the right tailor with the right product,” she said. “Because the tailor that hems a pair of jeans isn’t necessarily the same tailor that’s going to take in a Gucci blazer. Customers get a perfect fit, and tailors get new clients.”

Revive: Making repairs at scale

Revive originated out of Hemster, a repair and alterations startup founded in 2017 that has serviced Zara, Diane von Furstenberg and Reformation. Yet Co-founder and CEO Allison Lee swerved in a different direction in 2022, when she noticed brand warehouse managers using the service’s business-to-consumer repair portal to process dead stock and damaged goods. 

Said Lee: “That’s really how we accidentally discovered this huge problem that brands seem to have around their inventory and debt, the damages and returns and such.”

After raising $3.5 million in seed funding last June, Revive became profitable at the end of 2024. Lee said it processed 500,000 units last year, which could triple in 2025. “There’s a lot of tailwind we’re feeling right now,” she said, as brands reevaluate their supply chains due to tariffs.

Reformation views cleaning and repairing items in-house as a competitive advantage that reduces waste.
Reformation is among the brands that views repairing items in-house as a competitive advantage. Credit: Trellis / Elsa Wenzel
Source: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel

Brands create $740 billion of unproductive inventory annually, “the equivalent of every single unit sold on Amazon going directly to landfill,” Lee said. Yet companies only write off one-tenth of their inventory.

Brands often categorize returned items as “damaged” despite what are often trivial issues, including cat hair, wrinkles, a tear in the plastic wrap or a dent in the shoebox. Instead of recycling or donating those goods, Revive cleans, sews, re-tags and repacks them. Revive can help brands sell 95 out of 100 items it processes, according to Lee. The company re-routes the remainder for recycling or donations. 

Revive, which takes a fee for the logistics and a commission for each sale, sits between brands and several third-party logistics companies across the U.S. It moves merchandise in a few weeks that might otherwise rot in a warehouse for a whole season. The service combines its inventory records with pricing data from 30 sales channels, including Macy’s, Nordstrom, eBay and Poshmark, in addition to influencers who livestream sales.

“We basically look at this clean system on record and we’re like, oh, Michael Kors handbags sell really well on Whatnot, but the shoes sell better on Poshmark,” Lee said of patterns Revive’s artificial intelligence reveals.

“The sustainability narrative puts too much pressure on consumers to buy better and throw out less,” Lee said, but the bigger impact is in reducing business waste. “The items that I’m getting from the brand equal a million people reselling their goods, and that’s coming from like four brands.”

[Connect with the circular fashion community and gain insights to accelerate the shift to a circular economy at Circularity, April 29-May 1, Denver, CO.]

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Recent headlines paint a gloomy picture for corporate sustainability. Coca-Cola, Walmart, UBS and Microsoft are just some of the companies accused of watering down their climate commitments. But a survey of close to 7,000 company disclosures made to CDP in 2024 suggests that media coverage of individual companies may be missing broader trends.

“I expected to see more companies backing off,” said David Linich, a sustainability partner at PwC, the consultancy behind the survey. “It seemed like there was a mass retreat. But the data showed otherwise.”

PwC used a combination of human analysis and AI to mine the CDP dataset, which Linich said was broadly representative of the larger economy. Here are some highlights:

Not just staying the course, but accelerating

The PwC team found that 84 percent of companies are sticking with climate goals, and 37 percent are increasing them. That includes all 47 companies that saw a change of CEO since setting their target. “None of those companies backed off their commitments,” wrote the report authors.

In fact, companies anticipate more money will be flowing into climate transition projects over the next few years. Capital and operating expenditures on climate are expected to grow by 18 percent and 21 percent, respectively, between 2024 and 2030.

Of the 16 percent of companies who restated targets, half did so for what Linich described as “legitimate” reasons. This group includes companies that set targets without having created a detailed transition plan. Those that have now done so, are still investing but have realized their transition will take longer than anticipated.

One notable question is whether these commitments, which were made in disclosures filed before President Trump took office, will survive a presidency that appears intent on dismantling policies designed to tackle climate change. 

Emission goals are alive

Recent research has delivered worrying prognoses for current emissions targets. An Accenture report published last year, for instance, found that just 16 percent of companies with targets were on track to hit them. The PwC analysis, by contrast, suggests the idea is in good health: Two-thirds of companies are on track to hit their targets for Scope 1 and 2, and  half are on track for Scope 3.

Breaking the numbers down by sector revealed a correlation between ambition and progress. Simply put, sectors that set more ambitious targets are generally exceeding them, while those with more conservative goals are off track. Unsurprisingly, the trend reflects the abatement options open to different industries. Tech companies, for example, can often make a significant dent in their carbon footprints by switching to renewables. Finding a low-carbon energy source for ocean-going tankers is more challenging, as evidenced by that industry’s place in the bottom left of the graph below.

The reason for the difference between the Accenture and PwC findings is not immediately clear, but it’s worth noting that the two used different datasets:. PwC focused on CDP disclosures, while Accenture looked at the largest 2,000 companies by revenue. 

Suppliers step up

One theory of how to spur decarbonization is getting large companies to lead by setting emission targets then encouraging suppliers, many of which are smaller, to follow suit. This appears to be working. In 2020, just under 500 companies set targets, covering around 2.7 billion tons of CO2 equivalent. By 2024, the number of new target setters had surged to almost 1,300. Though the goals covered around 1.1 billion tCO2e, the median annual revenue of target setters fell from $3.8 billion to $1.3 billion.

“The larger companies are encouraging their suppliers, those suppliers are setting targets and creating a ripple effect,“ said Linich. The result was one of the most encouraging highlights of the data, he added. “The reason companies are acting has less to do with factors like regulatory or political reasons and much more to do with business value: My customers are asking for this, and I’m starting to prioritize it more as an organization, because they care.”

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The general business, sustainability, and DEI landscapes are increasingly tense, and in times like these, it’s not uncommon to instinctually choose from three basic responses: fight, flight, or play dead.

Some sustainability leaders and their companies will fight. They see climate change and DEI as core to their values, existential risks, or sources of value worth addressing.  Others will take flight, sometimes because they never really understood the value of sustainability. As a result, CSOs and their teams have lost their jobs and commitments have been rescinded. While most of us will agree this is a shortsighted mistake, it’s not hard to understand why business leaders are afraid.

And then there’s the most common response: playing dead, which amounts to continuing the work but going quiet, especially externally, to avoid attracting undue attention and risk offending stakeholders or facing a backlash. This approach can make a lot of sense given the shifting ground, and predictability—the most valuable asset in the business world—is scarce.

All of these responses are rational. The question becomes which path to choose? Below are three steps for making the business case of sustainability and moving beyond basic instinct.

Find the tangible value

Leaders feel pressure every day to deliver outcomes. They must stand in front of their investors quarterly and reveal progress and setbacks related to profit, loss, revenue, cost control, market share and brand strength. A small, but growing number of leaders may include carbon emissions, water usage, and the odd social metric. However, profitability indicators reign supreme. So how do we help CEOs and boards navigate this moment in the context of their priority outcomes?     

Instead of focusing on our commonly called upon force multipliers – regulation, supply chain engagement, reporting and policy advocacy – we need to return to fundamentals and recognize that sustainability programs deliver tangible value and our job as practitioners is to find and support that value creation. Our research has found companies that apply environmental sustainability concepts save millions of dollars in production costs and reach sales targets that support low emission energy, lower water use, and more circular approaches. Companies have boosted sales by featuring resource traceability that assured consumers that workers in the product’s supply chain were treated fairly. 

We need our version of the “it’s the economy, stupid,” which is the business case. This means advancing the CSO as a strategic business partner who harnesses sustainability as a source of competitive advantage, brand differentiation and operational efficiency.

This isn’t about surrendering principles or becoming captive to corporate inertia. Rather, it means deeply engaging with the machinery and relationships that drive organizational decision-making. This approach doesn’t limit others; sometimes the short term business case is not there, and it’s still time to fight.

Identify competitive differentiation 

To get the calculus right requires identifying strategic intersections where sustainability initiatives simultaneously advance business objectives and societal outcomes — positioning sustainability as a source of competitive differentiation and value creation. It means managing tensions and understanding the archetypes of sustainability value creation.  

We need not view the business case as sacrificing true commitments to environmental and social impact. To the contrary, for years major architects of the ESG and sustainability movement have tried to get companies to spend “real money” on environment and social outcomes. Linking sustainability more directly to the profit engine will better persuade leaders to direct more capex and opex to sustainability than regulation and reporting can. As our “How to Set Sustainability Strategy in 2025” report discusses, companies have become crafty at managing regulatory and reporting workarounds.

Mix art and science

Of course, managing competing interests and tensions is not easy, and every day seems more of a tightrope act. But we have more going for us than we might think. While many have lamented the rise of reporting requirements, these have actually given us much better data upon which to base our decisions and make our case. Creative business leaders can use this data to see which programs are driving value and which aren’t

Sustainability has too long been like the famous saying about advertising where we know that half of it drives value – we just don’t know which half. Data-driven business cases solve this challenge. Discussions about sustainability-advantaged hurdle rates for investments — given their high rate of success compared to other riskier alternatives — are far more common than they once were. Marginal abatement cost curves are making a comeback in the presentations of sustainability teams. There will always be an art to creating the business case, but data provides a much more scientific foundation upon which to build.

The tension resulting from integration efforts makes the sustainability profession challenging. It’s relatively simple to critique from the sidelines, questioning why executives don’t prioritize long-term thinking. It’s far more challenging to earn a seat at the decision-making table, navigate complex trade-offs, occasionally accept suboptimal outcomes, and persistently work to advance sustainability as a driver of commercial success and societal progress. But that is, as they say, the job.

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