Recent headlines paint a gloomy picture for corporate sustainability. Coca-Cola, Walmart, UBS and Microsoft are just some of the companies accused of watering down their climate commitments. But a survey of close to 7,000 company disclosures made to CDP in 2024 suggests that media coverage of individual companies may be missing broader trends.

“I expected to see more companies backing off,” said David Linich, a sustainability partner at PwC, the consultancy behind the survey. “It seemed like there was a mass retreat. But the data showed otherwise.”

PwC used a combination of human analysis and AI to mine the CDP dataset, which Linich said was broadly representative of the larger economy. Here are some highlights:

Not just staying the course, but accelerating

The PwC team found that 84 percent of companies are sticking with climate goals, and 37 percent are increasing them. That includes all 47 companies that saw a change of CEO since setting their target. “None of those companies backed off their commitments,” wrote the report authors.

In fact, companies anticipate more money will be flowing into climate transition projects over the next few years. Capital and operating expenditures on climate are expected to grow by 18 percent and 21 percent, respectively, between 2024 and 2030.

Of the 16 percent of companies who restated targets, half did so for what Linich described as “legitimate” reasons. This group includes companies that set targets without having created a detailed transition plan. Those that have now done so, are still investing but have realized their transition will take longer than anticipated.

One notable question is whether these commitments, which were made in disclosures filed before President Trump took office, will survive a presidency that appears intent on dismantling policies designed to tackle climate change. 

Emission goals are alive

Recent research has delivered worrying prognoses for current emissions targets. An Accenture report published last year, for instance, found that just 16 percent of companies with targets were on track to hit them. The PwC analysis, by contrast, suggests the idea is in good health: Two-thirds of companies are on track to hit their targets for Scope 1 and 2, and  half are on track for Scope 3.

Breaking the numbers down by sector revealed a correlation between ambition and progress. Simply put, sectors that set more ambitious targets are generally exceeding them, while those with more conservative goals are off track. Unsurprisingly, the trend reflects the abatement options open to different industries. Tech companies, for example, can often make a significant dent in their carbon footprints by switching to renewables. Finding a low-carbon energy source for ocean-going tankers is more challenging, as evidenced by that industry’s place in the bottom left of the graph below.

The reason for the difference between the Accenture and PwC findings is not immediately clear, but it’s worth noting that the two used different datasets:. PwC focused on CDP disclosures, while Accenture looked at the largest 2,000 companies by revenue. 

Suppliers step up

One theory of how to spur decarbonization is getting large companies to lead by setting emission targets then encouraging suppliers, many of which are smaller, to follow suit. This appears to be working. In 2020, just under 500 companies set targets, covering around 2.7 billion tons of CO2 equivalent. By 2024, the number of new target setters had surged to almost 1,300. Though the goals covered around 1.1 billion tCO2e, the median annual revenue of target setters fell from $3.8 billion to $1.3 billion.

“The larger companies are encouraging their suppliers, those suppliers are setting targets and creating a ripple effect,“ said Linich. The result was one of the most encouraging highlights of the data, he added. “The reason companies are acting has less to do with factors like regulatory or political reasons and much more to do with business value: My customers are asking for this, and I’m starting to prioritize it more as an organization, because they care.”

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The general business, sustainability, and DEI landscapes are increasingly tense, and in times like these, it’s not uncommon to instinctually choose from three basic responses: fight, flight, or play dead.

Some sustainability leaders and their companies will fight. They see climate change and DEI as core to their values, existential risks, or sources of value worth addressing.  Others will take flight, sometimes because they never really understood the value of sustainability. As a result, CSOs and their teams have lost their jobs and commitments have been rescinded. While most of us will agree this is a shortsighted mistake, it’s not hard to understand why business leaders are afraid.

And then there’s the most common response: playing dead, which amounts to continuing the work but going quiet, especially externally, to avoid attracting undue attention and risk offending stakeholders or facing a backlash. This approach can make a lot of sense given the shifting ground, and predictability—the most valuable asset in the business world—is scarce.

All of these responses are rational. The question becomes which path to choose? Below are three steps for making the business case of sustainability and moving beyond basic instinct.

Find the tangible value

Leaders feel pressure every day to deliver outcomes. They must stand in front of their investors quarterly and reveal progress and setbacks related to profit, loss, revenue, cost control, market share and brand strength. A small, but growing number of leaders may include carbon emissions, water usage, and the odd social metric. However, profitability indicators reign supreme. So how do we help CEOs and boards navigate this moment in the context of their priority outcomes?     

Instead of focusing on our commonly called upon force multipliers – regulation, supply chain engagement, reporting and policy advocacy – we need to return to fundamentals and recognize that sustainability programs deliver tangible value and our job as practitioners is to find and support that value creation. Our research has found companies that apply environmental sustainability concepts save millions of dollars in production costs and reach sales targets that support low emission energy, lower water use, and more circular approaches. Companies have boosted sales by featuring resource traceability that assured consumers that workers in the product’s supply chain were treated fairly. 

We need our version of the “it’s the economy, stupid,” which is the business case. This means advancing the CSO as a strategic business partner who harnesses sustainability as a source of competitive advantage, brand differentiation and operational efficiency.

This isn’t about surrendering principles or becoming captive to corporate inertia. Rather, it means deeply engaging with the machinery and relationships that drive organizational decision-making. This approach doesn’t limit others; sometimes the short term business case is not there, and it’s still time to fight.

Identify competitive differentiation 

To get the calculus right requires identifying strategic intersections where sustainability initiatives simultaneously advance business objectives and societal outcomes — positioning sustainability as a source of competitive differentiation and value creation. It means managing tensions and understanding the archetypes of sustainability value creation.  

We need not view the business case as sacrificing true commitments to environmental and social impact. To the contrary, for years major architects of the ESG and sustainability movement have tried to get companies to spend “real money” on environment and social outcomes. Linking sustainability more directly to the profit engine will better persuade leaders to direct more capex and opex to sustainability than regulation and reporting can. As our “How to Set Sustainability Strategy in 2025” report discusses, companies have become crafty at managing regulatory and reporting workarounds.

Mix art and science

Of course, managing competing interests and tensions is not easy, and every day seems more of a tightrope act. But we have more going for us than we might think. While many have lamented the rise of reporting requirements, these have actually given us much better data upon which to base our decisions and make our case. Creative business leaders can use this data to see which programs are driving value and which aren’t

Sustainability has too long been like the famous saying about advertising where we know that half of it drives value – we just don’t know which half. Data-driven business cases solve this challenge. Discussions about sustainability-advantaged hurdle rates for investments — given their high rate of success compared to other riskier alternatives — are far more common than they once were. Marginal abatement cost curves are making a comeback in the presentations of sustainability teams. There will always be an art to creating the business case, but data provides a much more scientific foundation upon which to build.

The tension resulting from integration efforts makes the sustainability profession challenging. It’s relatively simple to critique from the sidelines, questioning why executives don’t prioritize long-term thinking. It’s far more challenging to earn a seat at the decision-making table, navigate complex trade-offs, occasionally accept suboptimal outcomes, and persistently work to advance sustainability as a driver of commercial success and societal progress. But that is, as they say, the job.

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More than half of Salesforce’s most strategic suppliers — based on the amount the $38 billion software company spends on goods and services — have agreed to cut their greenhouse gas emissions as part of binding provisions in their contracts.

Those clauses are part of the Salesforce Sustainability Exhibit, introduced four years ago, in May 2021, as an amendment to the company’s standard contact language.

Among other things, the exhibit requires Salesforce business partners to set science-based emissions reduction targets within two years of signing, figure out the amount attributable to doing business with Salesforce and come up with a plan to deliver those goods or services in a carbon-neutral way. The contract calls upon suppliers to invest in some sort of remedy — such as investing in renewable energy or planting trees — if it can’t deliver emissions cuts.

The initiative is part of Salesforce’s high-level pledge to cut the carbon footprint of its supply chain in half by FY2031. The company has committed to an absolute reduction of 50 percent for all emissions by 2030.

“These are the things that we need from our suppliers in order for us to be able to make progress against these commitments,” said Louisa McGuirk, sustainable procurement director at Salesforce.

One-on-one interactions overcome reluctance

Salesforce prioritized its biggest contractors during renewals to introduce the Sustainability Exhibit, with procurement managers reaching out personally to explain the rationale behind the change, address potential objections and come up with ways to address them. Common themes:

  • Many suppliers needed their legal teams to review the exhibit paperwork because it was novel.
  • Some companies had no sustainability strategy in place and the concept of setting emissions reduction goals was completely new.
  • Most suppliers needed buy-in at the leadership level.
  • Others were concerned about the costs associated with creating, measuring and managing an emissions reduction target.

Along the way, Salesforce adjusted certain requirements; for example, instead of setting a specific year by which all suppliers needed to come up with their strategy, it adjusted the deadlines to accommodate individual business needs. “We do an annual review and make sure things still align,” McGuirk said.

The company also created a net-zero toolkit outlining the process of setting commitments. And it offered coaching to smaller companies to help them come up to speed on core concepts related to emissions reductions and guide them through the process of creating an initial greenhouse gas inventory. Salesforce also helps cover the costs of submitting data to EcoVadis, which tracks disclosures.

Compliance as a business differentiator

Visions Management, a small, woman-owned firm that handles facilities management, knew little about net zero before it was approached by Salesforce. “When the contract was first presented, I was overwhelmed,” said Visions founder and CEO Amy Garber. “I didn’t know what it all meant. I was afraid of failure.”

Positive reaction from Visions’ employees convinced the company to make the push. It received coaching from Salesforce to assist with the transition and used interns from a local high school to gather data and research viable options for purchasing carbon credits. 

Visions had its science-based targets for emission reductions approved by the Science Based Targets initiative in early 2025. It discusses that status with current and prospective customers. “I feel like we have won deals because of this. It’s another piece that adds to the value of our services,” Garber said.   

Procurement as an adoption driver

Adoption of the Sustainability Exhibit as a percentage of the Salesforce’s spending with outside suppliers will slow on an annual basis, McGuirk said, because it started with its biggest contractors.

The reason Salesforce targeted contractors by spending — rather than on their emissions — was because progress was easier to track using existing carbon accounting methods, she said.

“We’ve heard from a handful of suppliers that without Salesforce’s nudge, or the Exhibit, that they wouldn’t have set targets or it would have taken a lot longer to set those targets,” McGuirk said.

Many large companies actively encourage suppliers to reduce emissions through science-based targets — and some even offer educational resources and technical assistance to help — but Salesforce remains unique in codifying those commitments as part of its procurement process, according to sustainability consultants. That said, software maker Zendesk, itself a Salesforce supplier, introduced a similar set of contract clauses in December. 

Salesforce’s adoption numbers are impressive, considering how long it can take to train corporate procurement teams to have these conversations and the reluctance to alienate key suppliers, said Emily Damon, chief growth officer at consulting firm ClimeCo. “If it comes from your sustainability team, it’s cute. If it comes from procurement, it is serious.”

A benefit of these programs is that help large companies gather more specific metrics surrounding the full extent of their Scope 3 emissions, getting more accurate data than the estimates they are typically forced to use, said Cooper Wechkin, founder and CEO at RyeStrategy, which is coaching some of Salesforce’s suppliers.

Best practices

According to the experts consulted for this story, companies interested in shaping programs similar to that of Salesforce should:

  • Involve procurement teams. They can help prioritize engagement and signal which suppliers might find new requirements difficult to meet.
  • Provide technical support. Many companies, especially smaller ones, will need to be educated on the concept of net zero.
  • Offer options. Allow suppliers to choose the emissions reduction path that makes the most sense for their business rather than dictating a one-size-fits all approach. 
  • Look for ways to support supplier investments. For example, a corporation could motivate supplier investments in renewable energy or lower-emissions materials through better procurement terms. “This is where you’ll start to see a lot more pull-through with companies that are more slow-moving,” Wechkin said.

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The European Union is scaling back its landmark CSRD corporate climate disclosure law, while the SEC recently stopped defending in court its corporate emissions disclosure law. But as a result of existing and on-the-way state-level laws, companies will have to keep moving forward with plans to monitor and report Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions.

Here is a list of states that already have laws mandating corporate emissions disclosure or have introduced such bills. Trellis will continue to update it in real time as new laws come on line.

States with laws

California

SB 253 Climate Corporate Data Accountability Act

Who it affects: Any company, public or private, that does business in the state with revenues exceeding $1 billion.

What will be reported and when: Scope 1 and 2 emissions based on 2025 data, due in 2026; Scope 3 disclosures, from downstream and upstream value chains, due in 2027.

SB 261 Climate-Related Financial Risk Act

Who it affects: Companies with $500 million or more in annual revenue.

What will be reported and when: Financial risks directly caused by climate change, along with mitigation plans that address those risks, due January 2026, then biennially thereafter.

States considering laws

Colorado

Greenhouse Gas Emissions Act HB 25-1119

Status: Introduced Jan. 28.

Who will it affect: Companies — including subsidiaries — operating in the state with revenues exceeding $1 billion.

What will be reported and when: Scope 1 and 2 emissions, beginning in 2028, then annually thereafter; Scope 3 emissions, with partial disclosure for purchased, capital goods and product expected in 2029, with categories added in 2030 and 2031. Includes an option for refraining from disclosing certain items based on freedom of speech considerations.

Illinois

Climate Corporate Accountability Act HB 3673

Status: Introduced Feb. 18.

Who will it affect: U.S. businesses operating in the state with revenues exceeding $1 billion.

What will be reported and when: Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions, due Jan. 1, 2027, then annually thereafter. Emissions will be calculated using the GHG Protocol Corporate Accounting and Reporting Standard. State verified third party auditors would be required to independently verify the reports.

New Jersey

Climate Corporate Data Accountability Act SB 4117

Status: Introduced Feb 3.

Who will it affect: U.S. entities doing business in the state with revenues exceeding $1 billion.

What will be reported and when: Three years after the law is enacted companies will submit a report on GHG emissions to the Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) and a non-profit chosen by DEP, with annual reports thereafter. Scope 1 and 2 emissions must be publicly accessible four years after enactment; five years for Scope 3. Additionally, a qualified third party auditor must verify an assurance engagement report at a limited assurance level, with a planned move to reasonable assurance eight years after enactment.

New York

Climate Corporate Accountability Act SB 3456

Status: Introduced Jan. 27, following a failed first attempt in 2023.

Who will it affect: Companies operating in the state with revenues exceeding $1 billion.

What will be reported and when: Scope 1 and 2 emissions, beginning in 2027, then annually thereafter; Scope 3 emissions, beginning in 2028, then annually thereafter. Companies must submit reports in accordance with the GFG Protocol Corporate Account and Reporting Standard and GHG Protocol Value Chain Accounting and Reporting Standard. The final report must be verified by a third party auditor at limited assurance, with a planned move to reasonable assurance in 2031.

Washington

Washington Fashion Sustainability Accountability Act HB 1107

Status: Introduced Dec. 20, after a similar bill failed to make it out of committee earlier in the year.

Who will it affect: All fashion producers —anyone selling, offering or distributing apparel or footwear — in the state.

What will be reported and when:

All companies will report:

  • Products containing high priority chemicals
  • Definition of marketing terms, including “sustainable,” “green,” “low impact” and “environmentally friendly”
  • Disposal methods and volume of unwanted excess products not sold in store
  • Current initiatives and targets set to reduce environmental impacts

Companies with a gross income of $100 million or more will also report:

  • Established environmental due diligence policies and outcomes
  • Working conditions of company and its direct suppliers.

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Proposed new guidelines from the Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi) include a significant overhaul of the system for setting and hitting Scope 3 emissions targets, one of the thorniest challenges faced by sustainability teams. 

The SBTi’s current net-zero standard requires Scope 3 to be treated in much the same way as Scopes 1 and 2: Companies must measure the emissions associated with each and begin to reduce them at a rate that puts them in line with the global goal of limiting warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius. The approach has frustrated many companies, partly because they often have limited visibility into supply chains and, as a result, struggle to measure — let alone mitigate —the emissions generated within them.

The updated standard, released earlier this week, outlined a different way of doing things. Rather than treat Scope 3 emissions as a single entity, the SBTi proposed that companies set separate targets for the value-chain activities — procurement of concrete or business travel, for example — that generate the most emissions. 

Flexible mechanisms

Crucially, the SBTi also offered a tentative blessing to an emerging emission-reducing mechanism: indirect mitigation, also known as value-chain intervention or insetting. With this method, companies help fund decarbonization projects of suppliers, such as paying farmers to use regenerative agriculture methods, and earn credits that count against Scope 3 totals. Because confirming a link with a specific supplier in a complex chain is often challenging, companies can also earn credit for interventions that take place within a “supply shed” — a group of suppliers, usually in the same region, that provides similar goods.

Take the example of a company trying to reduce emissions from steel procurement. It may have funds available for the purpose, but can’t identify the facilities that produce the steel it uses because they are too far back in the supply chain. “Many companies have Scope 3 in their accounts but don’t know who the emitter is,” said an experienced sustainability consultant who asked not to be named because he works with clients on Scope 3 matters. “If I give you an instrument to invest in mitigation, I’m expanding your options.”

Domino effect

Allowing supply-shed methods is a “very positive” step, added Patrick Flynn, founder of Switchboard, a climate consultancy. Flynn is a former global head of sustainability at Salesforce, where he helped introduce the Sustainability Exhibit, contract language that included a requirement that direct suppliers set science-based targets. While impactful, Flynn noted that this “domino” strategy, in which your supplier is supposed to pressure their suppliers to decarbonize, takes time and is less effective as you travel further back in the supply chain. Indirect mitigation, said Flynn, allows companies to move quicker.

The SBTi is now soliciting feedback through an online survey, until June 1. One issue to look for in future drafts is additional detail on the accounting rules for indirect mitigation. These rules will need to strike a balance between giving companies the flexibility to invest across a supply shed with the need to keep funding targeted to a specific Scope 3 emission. Without such a restriction, investments may end up flowing to cheaper projects that don’t help decarbonize the target activity.

The SBTi won’t have to start from scratch to craft these rules. Earlier this year, the Advanced and Indirect Mitigation Platform, which is being tested by Amazon and others, began a pilot of cross-sector guidelines for accounting for value-chain interventions. SustainCERT, a company that verifies carbon projects, now has over 30 interventions listed on its registry

These advances, together with feedback from companies that are struggling with Scope 3, likely motivated the SBTi’s proposed changes, suggested Sarah Leugers, chief growth officer at Gold Standard, a standards body for climate and development projects. “They’re seeing those tools emerge while also seeing how difficult it is to influence suppliers,” she said. “So they are creating flexibility.”

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As the Trump administration wages a multi-front attack on federal environmental policies, Seventh Generation is stepping up its advocacy and defense of state laws that require polluters to pay for the negative impacts of climate change.

The cleaning products company, known for its bio-based formulations, was a prominent supporter of Vermont’s Climate Superfund Act, which became law in May 2024. Prior to the passage, the Burlington-based company joined 60 local businesses, including Ben & Jerry’s, to support the bill by meeting lawmakers and through grassroots outreach designed to build public awareness.

Seventh Generation was also part of a business group that worked for more than a year to get similar legislation passed in New York in December 2024. Now, the company is focusing on California, where lawmakers have revived a climate superfund bill that failed to pass last year, while staying abreast of similar bills in Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey and Oregon.

“Some of the most ambitious and just policies on climate have been advancing at the state level,” said Kate Ogden, head of advocacy and movement building at Seventh Generation, a subsidiary of Unilever. “We can have the greatest impact there.” 

Make policy advocacy an integral piece of climate strategy

Ashley Orgain, chief impact officer at Seventh Generation, said all businesses with net-zero goals should step forward so legislators receive a more balanced point of view on climate and clean energy laws. She noted that fossil fuels companies aiming to kill such legislation tend to dominate the dialogue and lobbying efforts.

The consumer products company has been a vocal proponent of climate and clean energy policies since it was founded in 1988, so aggressive advocacy doesn’t require special approval from leadership. Parent company Unilever is also known for making its voice heard on climate issues and for cutting ties with trade associations that don’t support its positions.

But the need for companies to advocate for climate regulations has become more urgent as global temperatures rise and federal leadership falters, Orgain said. Setting emissions reductions targets isn’t enough.

“We know we’re not going to be making a meaningful difference by our ingredients selection or packaging selection alone,” she said. “That will not get us to the pace and scale we need.”

Understand the superfund agenda

Climate superfund laws hold businesses accountable for the toll climate change takes on communities by assessing fees related to a company’s greenhouse gas emissions. New York’s law, for example, requires fossil fuels companies and heavy emitters to fund new infrastructure meant to protect the state from the effects of climate change.

Vermont’s law works in a similar way to cover the clean-up of climate related disasters, such as devastating floods that caused close to $500 million in damage claims in 2023. 

“This bill would ensure that the biggest historic polluters in the state — the companies that have known for almost 50 years that their products were destabilizing the planet we live on — that those companies pay their fair share of the costs inflicted on our state by the climate crisis,” said Seventh Generation’s Ogden at a February 2024 event organized to support the law.

The Vermont law was challenged as unconstitutional in December 2024 by the U.S. Chamber of Commerce and faces resistance by the state’s Republican governor, who is emboldened by Trump’s agenda. Likewise, a group including 22 states and industry associations has sued to stop the New York version.

Team up with community-centered policy experts

Both Orgain and Ogden are actively involved with Vermont policy and politics, through relationships with the Vermont Businesses for Social Responsibility and Vermont Public Interest Group. That’s important for face-to-face and grassroots engagement. 

“Building public support is super constructive, and having a company lobby for bills such as these goes a long way,” said Deborah McNamara, executive director of nonprofit ClimateVoice, which works with corporations on policy issues. “Companies are inherently involved with public policy, whether they like it or not. They are either obstructing consciously, keeping themselves on the sidelines or stepping out as leaders.”

Seventh Generation’s media budget for these sorts of activities is modest — much of its work is volunteer-driven — but when it does run ads it teams up with other companies and focuses on high-profile activities or comments suggested by organizers with lobbying expertise and strong community contacts. 

“We are in a very small state that is leading on this work, and we answer the call when they ask us to show up,” Ogden said.

In New York, Seventh Generation became involved through NY Renews, a coalition of 380 environmental-justice and community groups. Getting businesses involved with the effort lent NY Renews more credibility, said Stephan Edel, executive director of the organization.

“Businesses are often siloed off, but being in tight communication makes everyone’s advocacy more effective,” Edel said. “The challenge becomes making sure that we are coordinated and aligned.”

Prepare a compelling offense — and defense

Seventh Generation views collective action as crucial in the fight to protect the New York and Vermont laws and to craft a unified message in support of new legislation. That’s one reason the company is building a business coalition to engage lawmakers on the new California legislation introduced in late February. 

“Fossil fuels companies have a common narrative — pitting environmental concerns against affordability,” Ogden said. “It’s necessary for other businesses to fight against that message.”   

In California, the burden of disasters on taxpayers — particularly wildfires — will fuel a firestorm of debate over SB 684 and AB 1243, dubbed the “Polluters Pay Climate Superfund Act of 2025.” Affordability is a conversation in every statehouse, Ogden said.

The bills’ sponsors point to a potential burden of $250 billion related to the January fires in Los Angeles as justification, underscoring the “financial injustices” of requiring California residents to pay for the damage. It also plays to health concerns. The legislation would charge oil and gas companies a fee proportional to their emissions in the state since 1990. 

“We know we cannot make progress until we rein in the influence of the oil and gas industry,” Ogden said. “This is a way to have a huge impact on the climate without putting you head to head with the current presidential administration.”

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The White House’s tariff seesaw is disrupting global supply chains and planning for many businesses. However, it’s also benefiting companies that don’t manufacture overseas, or at all. Tariffs are poised to boost the market for secondhand apparel, which is booming for the second year in a row, according to ThredUp’s annual Resale Report.

Amid the uncertainty over tariffs, most apparel executives are navigating procurement disruptions and eyeing resale as a steady source of goods, while a majority of consumers plan to increase their secondhand shopping, the March 18 report found in recent surveys. In addition, the secondhand fashion market is seeing the strongest growth since 2021.

“You compare it to how retail is struggling to grow, and then you add on the tariffs and the uncertainty of these supply chains that all these retailers are dealing with, and it’s almost flipping that story on its head,” said ThredUp’s Chief Strategy Officer and General Counsel Alon Rotem. “Resale is actually in the strongest position it’s ever been in right now.”

Not only is the resale market insulated from global supply chain shocks, it may benefit from them, Rotem noted. And if retailers pass costs onto consumers, secondhand offers a less expensive entry into premium brands, such as Vuori, Lululemon and Reformation, which sell well secondhand.

‘Stable and predictable’ secondhand

Since returning to office Jan. 20, President Donald Trump has layered 20 percent tariffs onto goods from China, the world’s largest fashion exporter. That came atop existing tariffs of up to 25 percent.

Fast fashion giants, such as Shein and Temu, have been bracing for Washington to act on its promise close the de minimis loophole on imports under $800. Although that exemption remains for now, tariffs are already reshaping the apparel market, according to ThredUp’s surveys in January and February of 3,034 American consumers and 50 retailers and brands.

Among retail and brand executives in apparel, ThredUp found:

  • Eighty percent expect the trade wars to disrupt their supply chains.
  • Fifty-four percent saw resale as a “stable and predictable source of clothing” as tariffs potentially change.
  • Forty-four percent of execs reported seeking ways to user fewer imports.
  • Seventy-six percent of those not involved in branded resale already are looking to get involved.

The overall retail market offers clues that the recent tariffs may be dampening longer-term growth. Tariffs pushed U.S. retail spending to drop from January to February, according to the National Retail Federation. However, sales overall rose by 4.4 percent overall in the year’s first two months, compared with the same period in 2024.

Steve Preston, president and CEO of Goodwill Industries International in Rockville, Maryland, in February said he is closely eyeing the trade policies before determining benefits or drawbacks for the nonprofit. “It’s very hard to call right now, because we don’t know where it’s going to end up,” he told Trellis. “Now there is no doubt that if clothing or other goods go up, if prices go up, our value proposition will be greater. There’s no doubt about that.”

Apparel shoppers are highly motivated to find pre-worn bargains if prices soar, according to ThredUp:

  • Sixty-two percent of Americans worry that tariffs will drive up prices for fashion.
  • Fifty-nine percent of consumers said they will seek secondhand items and other less-expensive options if apparel prices rise.
  • That was even more true for millennials, at 69 percent.
  • Among younger adults, 48 percent reported that they already shop for resale before new apparel. That’s up by 7 percent from 2022.

Secondhand growth was already aggressive during the administration of President Joe Biden, ThredUp’s resale report found:

  • The value of sales of used apparel grew 14 percent in 2024, which is five times faster than retail overall. The market will grow by 9 percent each year to reach $74 billion in 2029.
  • Online sales of preworn clothes and shoes made up 88 percent of resale spending and grew eight times faster than apparel retail overall.
  • Globally, secondhand rose by 15 percent in 2024, and it will rise by 10 percent annually to reach $367 billion by 2029.

Ups and downs for resellers

ThredUp, based in Oakland, California, sells thousands of women’s and children’s apparel brands on its platform. The public company has struggled with profitability in its 16 years. On March 3 it reported revenues of $260 million, with growth of 1 percent for 2024 over 2023. Its stock was trading at $2.22 on March 18, a fraction of its peak of $27.27 in June 2021.

Nevertheless, the business insists on a bright future for resale. “It’s as profitable as it’s ever been, and it has a credible growth path as well,” Rotem said. “And so we’re really bullish on the future.” He noted, for example, that resale startup Vinted, based in Vilnius, Lithuania, is turning profits. And San Francisco’s The RealReal has reported strong earnings in recent quarters.

Eighty-six percent of retail executives told ThredUp that customer desire for used apparel has either grown or stayed steady in the past three years, according to ThredUp’s report.

Retailers and brands should seize the moment to take a fresh look at resale beyond clothes and shoes, according to Rotem. For instance, marketplaces are thriving, formally and otherwise, for used furniture, baby gear, electronics and sporting goods.

Even as the volatile policy environment leaves many short-term questions unanswered for apparel businesses, Rotem advised other corporate sustainability executives to hold tight to their long-term goals.

An era is ending of broader federal support for corporate sustainability to be baked into rules, regulations and policies. However, the pendulum is likely to swing in another direction at some point, according to Rotem. “Just because it doesn’t matter so much to the government doesn’t mean those things still don’t matter to consumers,” he said of corporate adherence to sustainability and human rights principles. “It’s just more incumbent on the brands to make sure that consumers are aware of these things and can differentiate their choices.”

[Gain insights to move beyond incremental action and accelerate the shift to a circular economy at Circularity, April 29-May 1, Denver, CO.]

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The Science Based Targets initiative has published a 132-page “initial consultation” document describing proposed revisions to the Corporate Net Zero Standard.

SBTi’s methodology has become the de facto framework that guides companies in setting science-based targets for emissions reductions that seek to hold global temperature increases below 1.5 degrees Celsius by 2050. 

The draft has been delayed for months amid arguments over SBTi’s direction and a CEO resignation. More than 3,000 companies have announced plans to commit to net zero. About half have actually had their targets validated, and about one-third are small or midsize companies. 

Nothing in the proposal published March 18 is technically final. SBTi has assembled five expert working groups to critique the revisions. It is also soliciting feedback via an online survey until June 1. From there, revisions will be made, and a new draft will be circulated for another round of comments before SBTi’s technical team and board consider them for approval.

Sweeping changes to Scope 3 methodologies

Some changes proposed in the draft will be tougher for companies to meet than the current net-zero standard, but SBTi is more flexible about requirements some corporations have criticized — especially its methodology for Scope 3 emissions from corporate supply chains.

More than half the companies surveyed by SBTi pointed to handling Scope 3 as their most significant challenge when aiming to become net zero. Revisions proposed in the draft would dramatically change that process. Key examples:

  • Scope 3 targets are mandatory for big companies (those with more than $450 million in revenue), regardless of the percentage they contribute to overall emissions.
  • Companies will need to identify their most emissions-intensive activities — sources that account for at least 1 percent of Scope 3 or that generate more than 10,000 metric tons of carbon dioxide equipment per year.
  • SBTi proposes dropping the fixed percentages it previously applied for setting Scope 3 targets in favor of a system that would allow companies to focus instead on “relevant” categories — those that account for at least 5 percent of their Scope 3 footprint.
  • Companies must use “direct influence” to require tier one suppliers (those with which it has a direct relationship) to set their own net-zero targets. 
  • Targets can take different forms — ranging from absolute emissions reductions to proof of “net-zero-aligned” procurement activities, such as buying steel or cement from suppliers that are reducing their production emissions in line with a plan to reach net zero. 
  • SBTi is more open to the idea of “indirect mitigation” of activities that companies can’t directly control. That might mean, for example, buying sustainable aviation fuel certificates through a book-and-claim system to reduce emissions related to air travel. It could also mean setting other procurement targets for lower carbon versions of materials that typically have high emissions, such as steel or concrete.

Under consideration: Recommendations for carbon removal targets 

The path to net zero has always recognized the need to let companies abate residual emissions at the end of their journey; usually less than 10 percent of the carbon footprint for their baseline year. 

The draft includes suggestions that would let companies get credit for “high-integrity” carbon removal activities taking place between now and their net-zero target year (usually 2050).

Here are three pathways being considered as part of the new consultation:

  • Option 1: Require companies to set carbon removal and abatement targets for the near term and long term aimed at mitigating projected residual emissions in their net-zero year.
  • Option 2: Recognize companies that set near-term and long-term carbon removal and abatement targets for that purpose.
  • Option 3: Give companies flexibility for how they address residual emissions.

The options above pertain specifically to residual emissions that a company isn’t able to abate by its net-zero year. SBTi is also exploring whether to “recognize” companies for using carbon credits and other mechanisms to address the annual emissions generated as companies transition to net zero, which it refers to as “ongoing” emissions. But the draft doesn’t go into detail about what form the recognition would take.

Stricter governance expectations and other notable changes

The update proposes different criteria for large and small companies; there are also nuances related to geography. And all this is just the tip of the iceberg. Companies will also need to:

  • Set net-zero goals more quickly. Once large companies commit to setting targets, they’ll have one year to deliver instead of the two years they previously had to get validated. Smaller companies still get two years.
  • Anticipate spot checks. The draft suggests “any company and target” is subject to random assessments to confirm conformity with the standard and ensure integrity. Potential triggers for that sort of scrutiny include a credible complaint.
  • Brace for regular baseline data evaluations. SBTi wants companies to reevaluate their base year emissions on an annual basis and whenever there’s a big organization change, such as a merger or divestment. 
  • Write a climate transition plan. The draft recommends publishing one within 12 months of having a net-zero target validated. These are disclosures that describe investments and business model changes a corporation must make to hold global temperature increases to 1.5 degrees Celsius. Roughly one in four companies that make voluntary annual disclosures to researcher CDP do this. 
  • Keep close scrutiny on baseline years. The organization wants them to be “representative of actual structure and performance.” Previously, it allowed companies to reach as far back as 2015. The revision would require companies to pitch a baseline no earlier than three years before their initial validation. Plus, big companies will need a third party to assure their emissions inventory calculations.
  • Shift to better data collection processes. SBTi is pushing for companies to demonstrate more use of primary data, and for continuous improvements in how they trace emissions from suppliers. Full traceability for their most emissions-intensive activities is expected by 2035.
  • Renewals could be required more quickly. Targets are typically set in five-year cycles. After that period, companies need to set new ones. Certain events could force an earlier renewal, such as the divestment of a business line or the need for a baseline year emissions recalculation.

Window for public consultation open

The organization will consider input on all of the revisions in the Corporate Net Zero 2.0 draft between March 18 and June 1.

Over the summer, SBTi will review the feedback to determine where adjustments or clarifications are needed; it plans to publish a summary of that input and how it is being addressed, but no specific timeline for that process has been disclosed.

Changes will be incorporated into a new draft that will be circulated for a second public consultation, before it is ultimately submitted for approval by the SBTi technical council. The final step for adoption is a vote by the SBTi board of trustees. 

“This is an iterative process and the public consultation will help us identify the changes we can make to ensure SBTi’s revised standard creates impact at scale as effectively as possible,” said Alberto Carillo Pineda, chief technology officer at SBTi.

For 2025 and 2026, companies can still set science-based emissions reduction targets for 2030 using the existing Corporate Net Zero and Near-Term Criteria methodologies. Goals set in those years will be valid for either five years or until the end of 2030, whichever is earlier. 

Starting in 2027, SBTi expects companies to set targets according to the finalized version of Corporate Net Zero Standard 2.0, due by the end of 2026. 

Are you a corporate sustainability professional who’d like to discuss the proposed updates? Connect with me on LinkedIn (or email me) to start a dialogue.

The post SBTi proposes more flexibility in 132-page net-zero overhaul appeared first on Trellis.

The profession of sustainability is changing. It always has been, though this moment feels more fraught than any before it.

Sustainability professionals are being buffeted by countervailing forces: On the one hand, to accelerate progress in reducing emissions and in restoring or regenerating despoiled resources and ecosystems; on the other, to stand down, or at least communicate less, mindful that the political winds are blowing fiercely against corporate climate action and other sustainability initiatives. All this while delivering tangible benefits — financial and otherwise — to their companies.

This is hardly the first challenging moment in sustainable business. I’ve been watching the profession evolve for more than 35 years, the last quarter-century with Trellis Group and its predecessor, GreenBiz. (For the preceding decade, I’d written and published “The Green Business Letter,” a monthly print subscription newsletter.) Indeed, this June marks 25 years since the website GreenBiz.com went live, a moment for us to reflect on all that’s been — and all that’s yet to come.

The 25-year roller coaster

During that time all of us have weathered three recessions, multiple political swings, countless technological breakthroughs, various global conflicts, fickle consumers, impatient investors and a global pandemic. Not to mention continually evolving language we use to describe who we are and what we do, from environmental responsibility and ESG to regeneration and resilience.

It’s been a rollercoaster ride: lots of ups — and more than a few frightening downs.

At Trellis, the runup to our 25th anniversary has been a time to recalibrate our products and services to meet this moment, with all its promise and peril. Last year, for example, we rebranded the company as Trellis Group and launched a vastly improved website. We transformed our seven weekly newsletters into a single daily offering: Trellis Briefing. We also recast our 17-year-old membership group for sustainability executives into Trellis Network, opening its various communities to anyone in a member company who wants to participate.

Now we’re reimagining our events, too.

Starting this fall, three of our events — GreenFin, Bloom and VERGE — will come together as a single, multifaceted event: Trellis Impact, in San Jose, Calif., Oct. 28-30. Starting next year, Trellis Impact will add Circularity to the mix and the event will relocate to San Francisco’s Moscone Center in early summer — June 23-25, 2026. GreenBiz, our flagship event, remains as is, back in Phoenix on Feb. 17-19, 2026.

It’s a big change for us — and for you — and reflects a number of trends.

First and foremost is the realization that the focus of these four event brands — decarbonization, the circular economy, biodiversity, and the finance to pay for it all — can no longer be seen as discrete topics but as inextricably linked. Addressing them in a single, integrated event will enable our community to increase both individual and collective impact.

Moreover, we’ve heard from our community that sustainability professionals need fewer events, not more, given the vicissitudes of travel budgets and time away from home — and, of course, one’s carbon footprint. And that by bringing four events under one roof we will enable their teams to more easily learn and share together about topics, trends and technologies that cut across multiple departments and remits.

We believe that Trellis Impact will be fit for purpose for the years ahead, a more holistic view of the sustainability solutions we all need to go further, faster during this decisive decade to cut carbon emissions.

Make it bigger: Addressing sustainability challenges in concert

It all brings to mind something called the Eisenhower Principle.

Dwight D. Eisenhower, the 34th U.S. president, decorated five-star general and World War II hero, considered himself an expert problem solver. He once explained, “Whenever I run into a problem I can’t solve, I always make it bigger. I can never solve it by trying to make it smaller, but if I make it big enough, I can begin to see the outlines of a solution.”

That’s a fitting prescription for today’s world, which has been variously described as a “polycrisis” (crises that interact so that the whole is more overwhelming than the sum of its parts) or “permacrisis” (a world lurching from one unprecedented event to another) — or, most likely, both. Rather than tackle each sustainability challenge individually, we believe it can be more impactful to “make it bigger,” addressing them in concert.

And that by doing so we can help unlock newfound synergies and new business opportunities for companies and their customers, accelerating the positive impacts we all seek.

The post Introducing Trellis Impact 25 to usher in the next phase of sustainability appeared first on Trellis.

In an effort to expedite the federal permitting process, the White House Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) rescinded its power to implement the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA), likely achieving the opposite result and further slowing an already long permitting review. The changes, announced via the Interim Final Rule released by CEQ, formally relinquished its authority under the guise of efficiency and expediency, instructing individual federal agencies to continue with existing practices and procedures instead. CEQ concluded that “it may lack authority to issue binding rules on agencies.”

But according to an analysis of CEQ’s decision by the law firm Allen Matkins, this move is likely to create future chaos and uncertainty.

“Without uniform regulations,” stated the firm, “each individual agency might now impose its own requirements on the NEPA process, [resulting] in greater challenges coordinating environmental reviews and permitting among multiple agencies.”

When Trellis reached out to CEQ for comment, a representative responded, “CEQ is not relinquishing its role in NEPA implementation; quite to the contrary — President Trump’s Executive Order, Unleashing American Energy, directs CEQ to work with all agencies as they revise their NEPA implementing regulations.”

This lack of alignment between official rules and administration comments is likely to contribute to the challenges mentioned by Allen Matkins.

How the dismantling affects NEPA

NEPA ensures that all large projects seeking federal permitting to break ground prepare an environmental impact statement or environmental assessment. Along with CEQ’s regulations that provide structure for NEPA implementation, the Permitting Council, established in 2015, facilitates the coordination of projects granted federal permits and subject to NEPA.

Changes implemented by the Trump administration include:

  • CEQ will no longer have authority over agency implementation of NEPA.
  • Each agency will have to revise or include its NEPA implementing procedure to expedite permitting approvals.
  • While revising, agencies must exclude analysis of environmental justice in NEPA implementation.

CEQ also included instructions for agencies to narrow the scope of “cumulative effects analysis,” removing much of the review process that investigates environmental impact altogether.

How a CEQ-less NEPA affects clean energy projects

Experts believe that the move will have a negative impact on how many clean energy infrastructure projects move forward overall, and how quickly.

“Thousands of electricity generation projects are awaiting approval to connect to the grid,” said Sen. Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.) in a recent Environment and Public Works Committee hearing. “Millions of engineering construction and manufacturing jobs stalled in part because of our inability build transmission lines. This must change.”

Consider the $1.8 billion Pantheon Solar Project, currently mired in uncertainty. A Nevada solar plant on public land, the project began applying for a permit in 2020 and is still mid-process. According to the Permitting Dashboard — the federal website that catalogs all current and proposed projects applying for federal permits — Pantheon has still not conducted its environmental impact statement. That process was supposed to begin in February, but its status is apparently up in the air.

Pantheon is going through the Bureau of Land Management. But given CEQ’s response to Trellis, the White House will surely have a say in its future.

It’s also likely that a significant amount of litigation will follow each individual agency’s revised NEPA rules of engagement. Companies and stakeholders currently in the permitting application process should expect implementation delays and legal uncertainties for at least the next year.

In other words, CEQ’s effort to expedite permitting potentially create a whole new set of roadblocks, defeating the intent of its recent actions.

The post Why federal efforts to ‘expedite’ environmental permitting probably won’t appeared first on Trellis.