The opinions expressed here by Trellis expert contributors are their own, not those of Trellis.​

Earlier this year, seven people who bought Apple’s carbon-neutral watches sued the company over the price premium they paid for these products. The lawsuit, which accuses Apple of making false and misleading claims about the watch’s green credentials, has serious issues of its own — including a misunderstanding of how carbon markets work, a disregard for established climate protocols and the implication that all offsetting is inherently ineffective.

The lawsuit also underscores a misconception about the best ways to communicate about corporate climate action. Such lawsuits could discourage companies from making their environmental efforts public, effectively punishing those taking steps forward, while letting those doing nothing off the hook.

What’s been lost amid the ongoing lawsuit is the fact that Apple designed and manufactured a carbon-neutral watch. I worry this case — and others like it — will scare companies into greenhushing their products, or not even attempting to make carbon-neutral products at all. The Environmental Defense Fund raised a similar concern in a legal brief backing Apple’s climate strategy, arguing that credible, transparent action should be supported, not punished, or we risk discouraging companies from staying ambitious in their sustainability efforts.

This need not be the case. Companies should follow Apple’s lead and speak boldly about their sustainability strategies, even amid the current political backlash against corporate climate action. 

A brief history of carbon-neutral claims

Apple isn’t the first manufacturer to experience backlash linked to its carbon-neutral claims. After Germany’s Federal Court of Justice ruled Katjes, a sweets manufacturer, had misled consumers with its carbon-neutral claims, the country banned carbon neutral labels on products unless accompanied by a detailed explanation.

In 2023, Delta Air Lines faced a class-action lawsuit alleging that its marketing of the airline as “carbon neutral” was misleading. Similarly, in 2022 Danone faced legal action over green claims on its Evian water bottles. Although a series of class action claims against Danone were originally allowed to proceed, the court reversed its decision in December. 

Taking companies such as Apple, Delta and Danone to court will disincentivize further action. They will likely review their “carbon-neutral” experiments, conclude they didn’t play well publicly and possibly decide against future climate action. This is already happening: Nestlé dropped its carbon-neutral pledges for KitKat and Nespresso, opting instead to focus on direct emissions cuts. In Germany, supermarket chain Rewe and drugstore chain Rossmann removed “climate neutral” labels from their products following regulatory pressure. EnergyAustralia also pulled its “Go Neutral” offset program after a greenwashing lawsuit, pivoting towards deeper internal decarbonization. These retreats send the wrong signal at a time when ambition and transparency are most needed.

Beyond legal action

We’re emerging from an initial period of experimentation in which many businesses claimed their products to be “carbon neutral” for the first time. And while it’s valuable for media organizations and other watchdogs, activists and even competitors to question the integrity of these claims, in doing so, some have made the term synonymous with greenwashing. Nuance has been lost and misunderstanding has spread.

For example, consumers might not know that, for most sectors, reducing emissions is voluntary. Companies choose to do so because it’s part of their climate strategy or they believe it’s what consumers want. 

We should now be familiar enough with the term “carbon neutral” to know it means a company has cut some emissions and wants to compensate for those it cannot yet prevent. But some critics and commentators seem to think that when a company claims it’s carbon neutral, it’s implying it’s environmentally impactless.

Rather than focusing legal firepower on the relatively few companies making environmental steps, critics might achieve more impact by turning their attention to the 81 percent that haven’t even set climate targets. 

Of course, it makes a better story to shout “hypocrite” than “laggard,” but doing so isn’t productive. We need consumers and media calling on companies to take climate action rather than punishing those that do.

I’m not saying all companies making efforts to reduce their emissions are perfect, nor that they do all in their power. But how much more inspiring would it be if, instead of going on the defensive, sustainability leaders honestly shared lessons learned? 

Corporations, don’t give up

I recognize it’s hard for companies to know what to claim. But to overcome this challenge, the Voluntary Carbon Market Initiative, an independent non-profit launched with support from the U.K. government and leading climate philanthropies, has produced a claims code of practice to help companies accurately convey emissions reduction and compensation. 

It’s also critical that we’re accurate with terminology. Some sustainability experts and climate communications specialists question whether “carbon neutral” is the most useful term. We need a phrase that shows a company’s progress toward cutting emissions such as “carbon responsible” or “climate positive.” 

Next, charging a premium for a more environmentally positive product is a mistake. Companies should make it easier, not harder, for consumers to make green choices, particularly as politicians increasingly disregard sustainability. If more people could buy greener products at reasonable prices, it would signal to companies there’s strong consumer demand, encouraging them to ramp up these initiatives and kickstarting a virtuous circle of greater investment and innovation. 

While it’s tempting in the current political environment to greenhush, companies that share the tangible actions they’re taking, not just future goals, are more likely to shape environmental dialogue and demonstrate leadership. Transparency about real progress can inspire others and build trust.

Companies have a choice: Either retreat into a world of greenhushing and environmental negligence or boldly advance the sustainability agenda through action and transparency. Companies that act decisively and communicate openly might face backlash now, but will ultimately be on the right side of history.

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No fashion brand deserves an A for effort to wind down its dependency on fossil fuels for energy and materials, according to activist group Stand.earth.

H&M Group earned a class-leading grade of B+ in the watchdog’s third Fossil-Free Fashion Scorecard of 42 fashion brands, suggesting that even a fast fashion business can make sustainability strides.

That contrasts with seven overall F’s handed down, including one for ultra-fast brand Shein. That company’s Scope 3 indirect emissions are skyrocketing as it continues a heavy dependence on polyester.

The report graded each company in five categories: climate commitments and transparency; renewable energy transition; advocacy; materials and circularity; and clean shipping. (Stand’s methodology included cross-referencing public reports with a survey it sent to businesses. Reviews by independent experts informed its letter grades.)

H&M stood out for financially backing suppliers’ attempt to slash emissions. It also scored an A+ for climate commitments and transparency, as it was the only company with a renewable energy target for emissions from raw material processing, that is, Tier 3 in the supply chain.

Similarly, sportswear and outdoor brands did best with climate commitments and transparency, including seven of the dozen brands with renewable energy targets for their supply chains. Patagonia and Puma each scored a C+. Yves Saint Laurent parent Kering, also with a C+, had the best showing among luxury brands, which tend to be cagey about their supply chain details. Mass market brands such as Eileen Fisher fared better than those in other categories by a full letter grade. They also nabbed better marks for use of low-carbon materials and circularity efforts.

Fossil fuels are woven into every step of apparel manufacturing, which makes up 4 percent of total greenhouse gas emissions, outpacing even the aviation industry, according to Stand’s report. The group advances a vision in which fashion phases out petroleum and coal, supports a “just transition” to a low-carbon economy and better engages the communities within their supply chains.

Stand was founded as ForestEthics in 2000. The San Francisco-based group, which originally targeted companies’ paper sourcing policies, takes credit for influencing 140 apparel businesses to ramp up their demand for renewable energy in manufacturing.

In this year’s report, the nonprofit issued a warning: “Unless brands act now to fund and enable the manufacturers and workers in their supply chain to deliver rapid climate action, building a more equitable model for the industry, this combination could create the perfect storm that sets the industry’s sustainability journey back, while leaving brands open to serious investor and reputational risk.”

Hall of fame — and shame

Eileen Fisher of Irvington, New York, came in second place overall with a B-. The only two A+ grades in one of the five sub-categories that Stand identified were H&M for commitments and transparency and Mammut for clean shipping.

Three companies received a C+ overall, including Gucci parent Kering, Levi Strauss and Patagonia.

The top three companies on Stand.earth's 2025 fashion scorecard.
The top three companies on Stand.earth’s 2025 fashion scorecard.

At the bottom of the pack, Boohoo of Manchester, England, received Fs across the board. Barely beating it, Aritzia, Shein and Columbia each scored Fs in three categories, with a D- for materials and circularity. 

“Dangerously out of step with climate action,” according to the report, Abercrombie & Fitch, Aritzia and Columbia Clothing have not even set targets for slashing Scope 3 emissions.

The bottom three companies on Stand.earth's 2025 fashion scorecard.
The bottom three companies on Stand.earth’s 2025 fashion scorecard.

Key progress areas

Here are highlights from each of the five categories that Stand analyzed:

Climate and energy commitments and transparency” — Two-thirds of brands maintain net zero goals, but only five companies revealed near-term, concrete steps to reach that achievement.

A fair renewable and energy-efficient manufacturing transition” — More than half of the companies are actively helping suppliers decarbonize. But only H&M offers financing beyond loans.

“Climate and renewable energy advocacy” — H&M scored an A, followed by Bs for Eileen Fisher and Nike. H&M, Kering and LVMH were the only brands satisfying U.N. criteria for the integrity of their net zero targets.

“Low-carbon and deforestation-free materials” — Average grades rose to D from F since 2023, and 95 percent of brands offer resale or repair. Nearly one-third of the brands are actively pursuing circular textiles, but only Puma has set a deadline (2030) for using a specific share (30 percent) of textile-to-textile recycled polyester. Only six companies are seriously pursuing a majority of materials without petroleum-based synthetics.

“Greener shipping” — Almost two-thirds work upstream shipping into their Scope 3 emissions targets. However, just nine brands explain the modes of transport they use, and only six pledged to reduce air shipping. Heavy emissions continue, with no end in sight, for Fast Retailing, Inditex, Prada, Puma and Shein.

In all its phases, material production spews out more than half of fashion’s greenhouse gas emissions, according to Stand.earth’s report.

Recommendations for fashion purveyors

Stand shared seven recommendations for apparel and footwear companies seeking to accelerate decarbonization:

1. Create “just climate transition” plans detailing near-term steps for 2030 and long-term steps for 2050 toward net zero goals.

2. Work with other brands to help smaller companies along the supply chain to ditch coal in favor of efficient and renewable energy technologies.

3. Enhance equity in dealings with suppliers. This includes helping to finance decarbonization efforts, including favorable loan rates and financing that suppliers don’t need to pay back. Stand also advises providing long-term agreements.

4. Focus more on climate adaptation efforts tailored to localities, helping workers “through the impacts of climate breakdown.”

5. In manufacturing centers, boost collaborative advocacy for policy and infrastructure that helps suppliers use more renewables.

6. Stick with a plan to get rid of synthetic materials. The report called out “the limitations of false solutions like recycled polyester.”

7. Use less polluting transportation by creating emissions targets and planning for slower, less-polluting shipping.

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If you’re a corporate affairs professional who’s been feeling the ESG backlash, you’re not alone.

New research from Trellis data partner GlobeScan and the University of Oxford found that in Europe and North America, corporate affairs professionals say pushback against ESG has become more pronounced, with approximately half of respondents reporting increased resistance against this agenda in the past 12 months. At the same time, corporate affairs professionals in other parts of the world are much less likely to report experiencing more resistance. This divergence underscores a critical point: although ESG is becoming more contested, growing resistance to it is far from universal.

What this means

Nowhere are the effects of rising political and economic pressures more visible than in the expansive domain of ESG. Often misrepresented as a vehicle for ideological agendas, ESG remains a vital lens through which companies interpret their operating environment and shape strategic behavior. For corporate affairs, ESG remains a central, yet increasingly complex arena. Regional disparities are widening, and political forces are reshaping both strategic priorities and narrative framing. In this shifting landscape, companies may need to adopt more nuanced, regionally attuned approaches to ESG in the years ahead.

Based on the Oxford-GlobeScan Global Corporate Affairs Survey of 245 corporate affairs practitioners conducted February-March 2025.

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Around 20 employees have been let go by Pachama, a carbon markets company that has won business from Salesforce, Boston Consulting Group and others by providing tools that can identify and monitor high-quality nature-based credits. Pachama’s cuts are the latest in a voluntary carbon market that has been roiled by wider economic uncertainty and anti-ESG sentiment.

Pachama was founded in 2018 by Diego Saez Gil, an entrepreneur with a background in the travel industry. The company debuted as carbon credit buyers were becoming increasingly concerned about the quality of forest credits. The remedy it offered: due diligence tools based on remote sensing and artificial intelligence. By late 2023, Pachama had raised $88 million from big-name funds, including Breakthrough Energy Ventures and Amazon’s Climate Pledge Fund, as well as celebrity investors such as Serena Williams and Ellen DeGeneres.

The company had recently expanded into project development, but the departures, announced late last week, are part of what Saez Gil described as “a strategic shift back to Pachama’s original vision: building a technology platform powered by geospatial AI to help make confident investment decisions into nature-based climate solutions and sustainable land management.” Pachama’s headcount is around 35 after the layoffs, Saez Gill said.

That reduction in force is the latest in a series of setbacks for young carbon market companies. Heirloom, a direct air capture (DAC) project developer that has contracts with Microsoft and others, has laid off staff and cancelled a project since last November’s elections. Doubts about future federal funding for DAC are believed to be the cause. Last month, Climeworks, another DAC company, cited similar reasons for cutting just over 100 positions from a staff of around 480.

Roiled markets

Turbulence at the federal level hit these companies hard because the voluntary carbon market, a core part of all of their business models, is also going through an upheaval: Controversy over the integrity of some classes of carbon credits has spooked buyers. The total value of credits traded in 2024 was around $530 million, a quarter of the market size just three years earlier, according to data released last week by Ecosystem Marketplace, an information source for environmental markets.

Source: Ecosystem Marketplace

“The current uncertain and volatile financial, economic and geopolitical climate, added to the anti-ESG agenda in the U.S., is indeed having an effect on corporate sustainability budgets,” Saez Gil told Trellis. “The impact is especially acute in the voluntary carbon market, which was already in a moment of correction.”

There are signs, however, that the market is doing a better job of rewarding higher-quality credits — a move that many observers see as critical to its long-term success. The Ecosystem Marketplace report, for example, notes higher demand for credits that have won approval from the Integrity Council for the Voluntary Carbon Market, an increasingly influential standards-setter. A shift away from cheaper, lower-integrity credits toward more expensive but reliable options, including high-quality forest projects and DAC, is a positive sign for all three of the companies hit by the recent layoffs.

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Tricia Carey, the former chief commercial officer for circular fabric innovator Renewcell, could have played it safe when she found herself out of a job in July 2024. With a professional network spanning companies such as Gap, H&M and Under Armor, she might have easily landed a new gig at a well-established fashion brand.

Instead, less than a year after Renewcell’s bankruptcy, she’s taking a risk with another early-stage startup, Avalo, which uses artificial intelligence to breed climate-resilient crops. She’ll be the evangelist: meeting with farmers, mills, spinners and brands to sell them on the approach.

“I’m a relationship builder,” she said on the latest episode of the Climate Pioneers interview series. “I love innovation, and I actually really like starting with things from scratch. You can build versus remodel, which you often have to do in a large global enterprise.”

The 6-year-old company has raised almost $15 million, including $11 million in March, to cultivate seed strains that use less water and fertilizer than conventional plants. Carey was hired to expand Avalo’s focus beyond sugarcane, rice and other commodities into cotton, fashion’s second most used fabric. It drinks 3 percent of the water used for agricultural purposes and is responsible for 10 percent of worldwide pesticide use.

“The industry is going through an incredible transition right now, and it’s never been a more exciting time to be a part of the textile and apparel industry,” she said. “We’ve got policy coming at us. We have now a lot happening within the tariff world. We’ve got the technology coming in. We have disruption from new entrants into the market, and so it really gives us a chance to rebuild and to do it the right way.”

Cotton was also at the center of Carey’s job at Renewcell, which sought to replace the use of virgin cotton with an alternative called Circulose made out of recycled cotton scraps. As chief commercial officer, Carey signed H&M and the parent companies for Tommy Hilfiger and Zara as clients. But longstanding supply chain practices and high production costs forced Renewcell into bankruptcy. Its intellectual property was acquired by a private equity firm and lives on in a renamed company, Circulose.

 

A fashionable career

Carey will try to connect Avalo with the network she built over 25 years with Lenzing, the company behind Tencel, a breakthrough wood-based textile designed to reduce the environmental impacts of fashion. There, she helped convince brands including Gap, Levi’s and Under Armour to source the fabric. Carey’s career began in the New York fashion district, inspired by her childhood wardrobe of handmade clothes.

“I learned how to sew because if I didn’t like [a garment], I was going to fix it,” she said. “That got me interested in textiles at an early age.”

Carey gravitated to startups later because they can be more nimble than companies struggling to transition in step with shifting consumer expectations. Although she sometimes misses Lenzing’s resources, she relishes the chance to share her mistakes and shortcuts with less-established companies.

Avalo’s appeal to cotton farmers centers on answering this question: How can they grow the most profitable crop as soil health deteriorates and water supplies become less predictable? Its AI algorithms scour seed databases to study seed traits and predict how to breed the best cotton seeds for the climate conditions of specific growing regions. “We can work on multiple traits at a time, which is not how traditional breeding is done,” Carey said. Often, changing these characteristics takes twice as long.

The company is seeking large cotton buyers to support its current strain being planted on about 2,000 acres by 15 farmers in an arid region of West Texas. If all goes as expected, the plants will use 95 percent less water than do currently available seeds. 

‘Learn, earn and return’

“I’m kind of looking at it in phases of learn, earn and return,” she said. “I felt I was reaching this point where I could take all of my learnings and return them back to the industry so much of what I had experienced and where I saw that it really needed to evolve.” 

She’ll prioritize three best practices at Avalo:

Execution at a much faster pace. Startup teams don’t have the guardrails or processes typically associated with navigating large organizations. That requires them to be laser-focused on mission. Carey says she learned more in her 18-month Renewcell tenure than she did in five years with a larger organization.

Recruitment of flexible individuals. Camaraderie is crucial. Carey seeks people with “the energy and the resilience to look at things differently, and that are also willing to build systems and have the flexibility to know that not everything’s going to be perfect.”

Diversification of customer segments. One of Renewcell’s downfalls was an over-reliance on small capsule collections with fashion brands that failed to scale their orders. “We do so many pilots, we can get into that stagnation of pilots after pilots after pilots,” she said. “In many cases, it’s back to basics, it’s about communication, it’s back to making sure that we’re running projects properly.”

Watch the full interview on the Trellis YouTube channel.

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Few of the nearly 8,000 companies with validated science-based net zero targets make headlines for reaching that milestone. But for Shein, which has come to symbolize the excesses of cheap, trend-driven fashion, the news drew widespread criticism from sustainability experts.

“If Shein were sincere, perhaps we wouldn’t see emissions grow quite so astronomically recently,” said Maxine Bédat, director of the New Standard Institute, a New York City think tank.

Still, when the Science-Based Targets initiative (SBTi) validated its 2050 climate targets May 23, Shein was among the minority of major fashion brands that made the list. Is it possible that what might be the world’s most-polluting clothing brand is turning a corner?

Not according to the San Francisco watchdog group Stand.earth, which on June 3 gave the company an “F” on its annual Fossil-Free Fashion Scorecard.

“If Shein were a country, it would be the 100th-biggest emitter in the world,” the report said, generating almost as much pollution as Lebanon, “having increased Scope 3 emissions by over 170 percent in just two years.” Shein flunked in a variety of categories, including commitments and transparency, renewable energy transition, advocacy and clean shipping. Its highest mark was a D-minus for materials and circularity.

Although that report was compiled before Shein’s SBTi validation, its core complaints remain largely unaddressed by the company.

Skepticism over the clothier’s net zero quest led Ken Pucker, an industry veteran and teacher at Dartmouth and Tufts, to question on LinkedIn whether sustainability commitments themselves are credible. “I am dubious,” he said. Among the reasons for his skepticism:

  • In 2023, Shein’s emissions rose by 45 percent from a year earlier, according to the company’s 2023 sustainability and social impact report.
  • Even with a small emissions jump, the company would have to shave roughly one-third of its Scope 3 emissions in the next half decade to satisfy its new targets, Pucker noted.
  • Since its launch in 2008 in Nanjing, Shein has not yet produced a sustained drop in emissions.
By relying on high-carbon air freight, Shein beats its peers in terms of its shipping impacts. Credit: Stand.earth

Shein’s growth

The brand has rocketed to popularity with an on-demand, direct-to-consumer business model that flew some 900,000 packages a day to individuals in the U.S. last year.

“If you’re looking from a production side, there are many things that Shein does that, in fact, the sustainability sector has been peddling as a great idea for a very long time,” said Veronica Bates Kassalty, a fashion consultant and former World Bank economist in London. For example, brands have been trying to figure out how to sustain and profit from making limited, small runs of fashions rather than overproducing.

“The only people who managed to crack it: Shein,” she said. “And that’s what enabled them to catapult themselves into the stratosphere, because they’re constantly producing something new all the time, and it’s no great risk to them.”

The United States’ de minimis exemption has enabled the company to jet goods to the country, duty-free, in packages worth $800 or less. Until the White House closed that loophole May 2, the policy had helped Shein snowball among fashion influencers flaunting cheap and trendy wardrobe hauls. 

That, and the Trump administration’s seesawing tariffs on imports, have slowed Shein’s roll. The company boosted spending per customer by 35 percent but lost 30 percent of customers from April to mid-May, compared with the same period last year, according to Bain & Company. Amid this challenging environment, Shein’s target for an initial public offering moved again recently from London to Hong Kong. It had originally set its sights on New York.

What’s the plan?

Shein’s net zero targets appear to be standard, either at or slightly above the SBTi baseline. Roadget Business of Singapore, Shein’s parent company, seeks to reduce absolute emissions across Scopes 1, 2 and 3 by 90 percent by 2050. Its goals for 2030 include a 42 percent reduction in Scope 1 and 2 emissions and a 30 percent drop in Scope 3. (Scope 3, including the indirect supply chain and transportation emissions, comprised 99 percent of the company’s emissions in 2023.)

Yet it’s important to note that when the SBTi legitimizes any corporate net zero targets, it’s only a first step; there’s no enforcement for what happens next, according to Bédat, author of “Unraveled: The Life and Death of a Garment.”

“There is a real misunderstanding of what an approved target means, and this ends up being used as greenwashing,” she said. “The target approval is not an approval of the quality of the plan for reduction, it simply means that the target is in line with the requirements.”

But sharing a credible climate transition plan would help, according to Bédat. “Elements of credibility include: how are they incentivizing suppliers, how [many] resources are they putting [toward] incentivizing suppliers, how much are they spending on lobbying for or against policies that align with their targets and how their growth targets align with their transition plan.”

For now, however, Shein’s plan does not reflect that. And that, said Bédat, “indicates a weak plan.”

The limitations of standards

The raised eyebrows over the ultra-fast apparel company’s true intentions come as the SBTi itself is attracting criticism for proposed flexibility to Scope 3 requirements. The body’s validation for Shein comes under SBTi’s current standards, released in March 2024. With the next version under public consultation, Shein will have to update its targets by 2030 to satisfy the new requirements.

The SBTi has also recognized the need for a specific standard for apparel companies to address the unique challenges of the increasingly polluting sector, which by some counts makes up 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions.

Shein’s 2023 sustainability report illustrates its intentions to ramp up circular economy efforts. Credit: Shein

The Greenhouse Gas Protocol, which influences the SBTi, was set up within the contemporary context of linear, “take, make, waste” economies, according to Miranda Schnitger, climate lead for the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Therefore, these and other standards fail to provide measurements or incentives for circular practices, such as keeping durable materials and products in use for years or decades. Schnitger hopes to help change that.

Shein has an extensive “design for a circular future” plan, and the company makes numerous other efforts that the industry considers to be sustainable. For example, it has invested $10 million toward communities affected by textile waste. In 2023 the company used some 20,000 meters of deadstock in its designs. It has also collaborated with the Textile Exchange on organic cotton and special packaging and is investing in large-scale polyester recycling.

However, that’s not enough to offset the high-production, low-price business model of clothes designed for disposability, according to Kassalty. In addition, three quarters of its products are made of petroleum-derived polyester, a nightmare for emissions and human health. Durable garments of natural fibers create lower environmental impacts yet don’t fit Shein’s business model, according to Kassalty.

“Everyone’s been focusing on the production side, and nobody’s been looking at the way these companies sell,” she said. “And what really differentiates a sustainable company from an unsustainable company is the way that you sell.”

[Join more than 5,000 professionals at Trellis Impact 25 — the center of gravity for doers and leaders focused on action and results, Oct. 28-30, San Jose.]

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Across the food industry — from meatpackers to retailers—companies face varying levels of climate risk from methane pollution. Livestock emissions account for 32 percent of human-caused methane emissions, which means retailers that sell more dairy, beef and pork products are particularly prone to methane risks.

But there are steps all companies can take to clean up methane pollution, tackle risk and ultimately boost profits and food system resilience, as highlighted in a new Ceres report that analyzes which sectors in the food industry are most exposed to methane risk. Hershey, Cargill, General Mills and other industry-leading companies are doing that by acting on disclosing methane emissions, setting reduction goals, implementing methane strategies in transition plans and advocating for public policy that supports research and innovation.

To have the greatest impact, food companies can focus on their supply chains to slash methane from agriculture. Companies that work directly with — or at least maintain close relationships with — the farmers and ranchers who produce their food and livestock will have a different menu of options for reducing methane emissions from those that do not.

Whether they have direct ties to farmers or not, every food company can make a difference. Here’s how companies at both ends of the food industry can work with actors in and around their supply chains to cut methane pollution.  

Packaged foods and meats companies face the highest risk

Our analysis found that packaged foods and meats companies that primarily produce dairy, beef and pork products have the highest risk from methane pollution in the industry — up to 90 percent of their total emissions. That means that lowering methane can go a long way in helping packaged foods makers to achieve their goals. 

Fortunately, these companies are well-positioned to target methane-related risk and leverage strategies for working with their partners within the supply chain. Many either work closely with farmers or, in some cases, manage everything from farming operations to processing and packaging. These close relationships or integrated production models place these businesses more in control over the solutions because they can directly engage farmers in their supply chain to implement methane-reducing practices.

Take, for instance, Danone, a founding member of the Dairy Action Methane Alliance, an initiative working on dairy methane in the food industry. Danone stands out for its commitment to drive down methane across its operations and supply chain using a broad sweep of strategies. 

The dairy giant works directly with nearly 60,000 farmers, including many smallholders, and supports on-farm projects for piloting methane-inhibiting feed additives, improving cattle genetics and optimizing milk production and efficiency. In the U.S., Danone North America has funded projects on dairies of diverse sizes around the country to improve manure management, which the company claims not only contributes to reducing methane, but also nitrous oxide, another gas with a powerful warming effect.  

Food retailers also face challenges 

At times overlooked, food retailers including grocery and convenience stores are at considerable climate risk from livestock pollution due to their meat and dairy sales. Like packaged foods and meats companies, these retailers will have to remove methane from their supply chains to reduce their overall climate impact and the risks that creates for their businesses. 

Since they’re further removed from farms, retailers of beef, pork and dairy products will need to use more indirect forms of supporting farmers and ranchers in managing methane risks and advancing cutting-edge solutions throughout the industry. Partnering with their suppliers (co-ops and meat processors) is a good option for retailers to help farmers and ranchers reduce the amount of methane their farms emit. Retailers can work to show their suppliers there’s demand for low-methane products and develop programs to share the costs to farmers for methane projects.

One retailer making strides on methane is Ahold Delhaize subsidiary the Giant Company, a regional U.S. supermarket chain intent on building a sustainable supply chain for its fresh milk and dairy products. To help reach that goal, Giant partners with organizations including the Maryland and Virginia Milk Producers Cooperative Association (Turkey Hill and Starbucks are also members) and the Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay. These partnerships assist in funding and supporting projects that promote best practices, such as proper animal waste storage to prevent leakage into the surrounding soil and waterways, and regenerative agriculture such as using cover crops to lower the emissions intensity of milk production and improve water quality on the region’s 400-plus dairy farms.

Without a doubt, meaningfully methane pollution reduction from livestock cannot be accomplished alone. An all-in mindset is required for food companies to reap the most benefits from action. The examples set by Danone and Giant illustrate how actors can do their part to fast-track the adoption of lower-methane practices, enhance risk management and ensure future profitability and supply chain resilience. 

Companies across the entire food industry, regardless of where they sit, can implement methane strategies to engage their supply chain, accelerate innovation and advocate for public policy that helps them achieve their goals. 

[Join a vibrant community of leaders and innovators driving cutting-edge tools, business strategies, and partnerships to protect and regenerate nature at Bloom, Oct. 28-30, San Jose.]

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Key pillars of the climate strategies of five major food system companies have been criticized in a deep analysis by two leading European non-profits.

The five companies — Danone, JBS, Mars, Nestlé and PepsiCo — were studied by the NewClimate Institute and Carbon Market Watch. Researchers at the organizations, which presented their findings this week as part of their annual Corporate Climate Responsibility Monitor (CCRM), said that the companies’ approach to carbon removal, deforestation, animal protein and other issues “are unlikely to lead to structural, deep emission reductions in the sector.”

The results are notable because while JBS is often attacked for its failure to tackle deforestation in its beef supply chain, the other four companies are often cited as sustainability leaders. All have had their near-term and net zero emissions targets validated by the Science Based Targets initiative, for example, and have made substantial investments in regenerative agriculture.

Livestock targets

That’s welcome but not enough, said the CCRM team, because the measures do too little to address the sector-wide transformations that are required to decarbonize food and agriculture. This includes tackling emissions from livestock, which the team said account for 15 percent of global anthropogenic emissions and 80 percent of methane emissions from agriculture. 

Danone has committed to reducing methane emissions from its milk supply by 30 percent by 2030, but it is the only one among the five to have done so. The report authors note that the other companies discuss the importance of plant-based protein but have not set relevant targets.

“If there are targets that are combined with these commitments to key transitions then I have confidence in the targets,” said one of those authors, Sybrig Smit, a climate policy analyst at the NewClimate Institute. “Otherwise, I think there’s very little to build on.”

Confusing removals and reductions

The role of carbon removals in the companies’ strategies also came in for criticism. The report cites the example of Nestlé, which estimates the carbon dioxide removed by agroforestry, regenerative agriculture and other land-use programs it funds, and subtracts the total from its Scope 3 inventory. The company’s ambition to achieve 13 million metric tons of removals by 2030 is a critical part of its goal of halving emissions by the same date. 

That creates a “misleading sense of progress towards emission reductions,” wrote Smit and her co-authors, and confuses CO2 emissions, which remain in the atmosphere for hundreds to thousands of years, with land-based carbon stocks, which can be quickly released by fires or changes in agricultural practice. The CCRM team called on the SBTi to address the issue by requiring companies to set separate goals for emissions reductions and removals.

A Nestlé spokesperson said that the report did not reflect its “progress and commitment” towards net zero and that the company disagreed with the report’s conclusions. “In 2024, 91 percent of the decline in our greenhouse gas emissions was due to reductions and 9 percent from high quality carbon removals within our value chain,” she noted, adding that the food and agriculture sector would not be able to reach net zero using reductions alone. Removal projects can also bring other benefits, the spokesperson said, such as increasing biodiversity and restoring degraded land.

The other companies cited in the report did not return a request for comment.

Deforestation certificates

On deforestation, the report highlights encouraging progress, including PepsiCo’s goal of achieving deforestation-free sourcing this year, which the company breaks down into measures for each relevant commodity, and a similar target set by Nestlé. 

However, the authors said this work is undermined by a reliance on “environmental attribute certificates,” which enable companies to fund and claim credit for the emissions reductions associated with avoiding deforestation. 

This approach allows companies to invest in avoiding deforestation even if they cannot trace every step in a supply chain but doesn’t guarantee that the ingredients they purchase actually come from deforestation-free farms. “Deforestation-free” claims that rely on these certifications are then open to question because the investment boosts producers that have not recently converted forest to farmland — but doesn’t necessarily prevent clearances elsewhere.

JBS received the lowest score on deforestation, with the authors writing that the company “only implements minor measures to reduce legal deforestation.”

Longer-term progress

Despite the shortcomings highlighted in the report, Smit noted that there have been clear signs of progress in the four years that she and colleagues have been conducting the analysis.

“When we started there was a lot of uncertainty around net zero targets across the board,” she said. Smit recalled an example of a company that claimed to have reached net zero — with 65 percent of its emissions eliminated through offsets. “Those practices have kind of disappeared,” she added. “I find that quite encouraging.”

[Join a vibrant community of leaders and innovators driving cutting-edge tools, business strategies, and partnerships to protect and regenerate nature at Bloom, Oct. 28-30, San Jose.]

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Animal, vegetable or mineral. Most materials derive from one of those categories of nature. But a Chicago startup is cultivating a new class of materials from the fungus kingdom.

Hydefy, in fact, is developing alternatives both leather and fossil fuel-based plastics.

The company just emerged from stealth mode after spending five years quietly formulating its vegan “leather.” In March, it took the wraps off its first branded product, a $1,500 silvery purse by Stella McCartney.

“Our vision is that we will introduce a new option for consumers that they can feel good about,” said Hydefy General Manager Rachel Lee.

A vial of fungus, straight from a cooler. This is where the products originate for both the Nature's Fynd food company and Hydefy materials startup.
A vial of fungus, straight from a cooler that supplies sister companies Hydefy, which makes leather-like material, and Nature’s Fynd, which produces food. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel

Among dozens of startups playing with mycelium, found in the roots of mushrooms, Hydefy has evaded the spotlight. That’s even as its sister startup, Nature’s Fynd, raked in more than $500 million of investments, including from Bill Gates’ Breakthrough Energy Ventures. Nature’s Fynd formulates fungus-based, protein-rich “yogurt” and breakfast patties that sell at Whole Foods and Mariano’s markets. 

The sibling companies share a nearly 50,000 square-foot R&D and production plant in Chicago’s former Union Stock Yards. The irony of being situated in America’s former meatpacking “jungle” is not lost on Lee, who is also a senior director at Nature’s Fynd.

“We started with cream cheese and breakfast patties in 2021, on Valentine’s Day, as our love letter to Earth,” she said. “We were replacing the inside of a cow. Now we can say we’re replacing all the parts.”

In the center, dried Fy resembles dried mushrooms or mangled potato chips. This is how the mycelium looks after cultivation and drying. It's flanked by ground up versions. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel
Dried Fy, whether flakes, powder or pellets, emits an earthy aroma. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel

The quest to bring climate-friendly fungi to the industrial production of fashion and food sprang from NASA research into “extremophile” organisms that could survive in alien conditions. The fungus has traveled to the International Space Station to test its potential for feeding astronauts. Fynder Group, the umbrella company, emerged from research by Mark Kozubal, who in 2009 noticed fungi sprouting from algae sampled from a hot spring at Yellowstone National Park. The Latin name for the fungus strain, by the way, is Fusarium strain flavolapis (flavo means yellow and lapis means stone).

The company was founded in a Bozeman, Montana, garage but eventually relocated to the Windy City.

Hydefy recently invited Trellis to tour its Chicago plant, where it and Nature’s Fynd draw their fungi from the same cooler. The organism is rare — it may not even grow beyond its geothermal origin point in Yellowstone — so backup copies are kept alive in undisclosed locations.

Hydefy adapted this sheet extruder machine to produce wide sheets of its mycelium "leather" material. The equipment normally would produce things like vinyl flooring and mats. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel
An extrusion machine adapted by Hydefy produces wide sheets of mycelium “leather.” Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel

From cold storage the microorganisms’ paths diverge, either to a Nature’s Fynd lab-like kitchen or a Hydefy fabrication room. (Sometimes Hydefy recycles scrap fungi from Nature’s Fynd.)

Whatever works

Hydefy takes an “all of the above” approach to fermentation technology. With liquid air surface fermentation, the fungi forms a mat as it grows, Kombucha-like, in trays. Another method is submerged fermentation. In equipment typically found in breweries, fungi grow vertically inside large metal tanks.

Here's what Hydefy's fungus sheets look like on rolls before the final finishing touches, such as for color. Each roll has a slightly different texture, some approximating smooth leather and others with a pebbled texture or a near-suede hand feel. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel
Fungus sheets with different textures — pebbled, smooth, etc. — are stored rolls before finishing touches, such as coloring, are applied. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel

“This process allows us to re-fit existing equipment and grow our network, whether national or global,” Lee said.

The living output, called Fy, comes out wet. Once washed, diced and dried, it resembles potato chips, but with an earthy aroma.

The company crushes those chips into powder, mixing in sugarcane polymers. It forms that powder into pellets, which are fed into an extruder, at which point heat and pressure are added to churn out sheets that are similar in size to fabric rolls.

The machines, which generally produce vinyl flooring and mats, have been customized by Hydefy engineers. (Early on, the company experimented with a panini press.)

There’s a light burning smell as staff tinkers with the equipment. They swap out attachments to produce different sizes and composites of the material. 

The base material comes out a buttery yellow. The company can add colors. 

At a nearby table, team members add texture to the rolls, a process similar to embossing. A finishing layer includes silicone and a bio-based polyurethane from either corn or sugarcane. Hydefy has about 50 different finishing formulations. Notably, when an attache case brought to a trade show in London became unpackaged during shipping, the wear and tear resembled the scuffing typical of animal leather.

Hydefy can customize its material in colors and textures that resemble leather or vinyl, or something new entirely. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel
Hydefy has 50 different finishing formulations. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel

The material can have various hand feels, including pebbled leather, crushed velvet and suede effect. In addition, the company can produce non-leather textures that have, say, a metallic sheen or other patterns, such as the topography of Yellowstone Park. Some of the material smells nearly like leather, although whether Hydefy should mimic that aroma is a point of discussion. So too a perfumed purse: A Nature’s Fynd team member helped give Fy a rose scent.

“Some of our favorite inventions have come from controversial, love-or-hate decisions,” Lee said.

A diversified team

Hydefy employees come from a swath of backgrounds. They include a scientist who used to make fighter jets, a former banker and a fermentation scientist. The team also includes Senior R&D Director Jeremy Gantz, who spent more than seven years in materials innovation at Nike. He is one reason that Hydefy is comfortable eyeing the footwear market. At least three staffers are wearing test shoes made from Fy.

Hydefy's material appears in demo cowboy boots and purses. The printed fabric pattern is visible on the other side through its attached, semi-sheer layer of the fungus material, showing design possibilities that bovine leather can't provide. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel
Some demo products using Fy. The printed fabric pattern is visible on the fabric’s underside, a canvas genuine leather cannot offer. Credit: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel

“As an industry, we’re not going to find people who used to work in this because it’s a new category,” Lee said. “That’s why it was more important to look for scientists who have the material science background, or who have the chemistry background, or even who have textile background.”

[Connect with more than 3,500 professionals decarbonizing and future-proofing their organizations and supply chains through climate technologies at VERGE, Oct. 28-30, San Jose.]

The post An inside look at a fungi-forward, faux-leather material maker appeared first on Trellis.

Jigar Shah is concerned about an impending rise in energy costs, but he’s still optimistic about the prospect of America’s clean energy future.

That’s one of the main takeaways from a wide ranging interview with the former director of the Biden Department of Energy (DOE) Loan Programs Office (LPO). Shah, who is now a part-time fellow for the World Resources Institute and consultant for PowerHouse Ventures, spoke with Trellis about the future of U.S. energy.

U.S. energy production

The House passed its version of the reconciliation budget bill on May 22, repealing many clean energy credits created in the 2022 Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) including the clean electricity investment tax credit and advanced manufacturing production credit. Also noteworthy: The legislation tightened the deadline to take advantage of many IRA manufacturing credits — 60 days after the bill’s passage.

And though nuclear energy is exempt from the 60-day rule, the nuclear power production credit expires earlier than planned in 2031.

These credits directly contribute to the affordable development of clean energy production, including solar, wind and battery storage subsidies. Not surprisingly, these proposed cuts, combined with federal agencies slashing funding for decarbonization and clean energy projects, have Shah worried that the U.S. will be unable to meet the necessary minimum energy load by 2030.

“The vast majority of electricity planners think that we need 150 gigawatts of new energy capacity by 2030 to meet all of our economic development goals,” said Shah, “The American Gas Association (AGA) has said very clearly that they do not believe that we can build more than 50 gigawatts of new natural gas in this country by 2030.”

Shah referenced the AGA to emphasize that even the fossil fuel industry is concerned about America’s ability to meet its future capacity needs, especially in light of the growing demands of artificial intelligence (AI). The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory projected that by 2028, more than half of all electricity use in data centers will directly support AI use.

To meet this demand, most experts believe, energy production will have to include solar and wind.

Undermining clean energy bipartisanship

The LPO, which provides low-cost funding, was designed to stimulate private sector investment in clean energy projects. But the House reconciliation bill cut all unused credit subsidy funding currently available to the office. This doesn’t just affect Trump administration bugaboos like windmills and solar, but also geothermal and nuclear energy production, which are the rare examples of bipartisan net-zero energy production.

“You’re not going to build nuclear between now and 2030,” Shah said. “Or even new geothermal.” Rather, he believes, existing clean energy technology will have to fill the gaps. “It’ll just be more expensive,” he said.

Moreover, with the LPO hobbled the clean energy industry is set up for a devastating domino effect because the reconciliation bill also cuts all manufacturing and production credits that would help buffer the impact of rescinded funds. 

But Shah doesn’t see this future as inevitable. He is calling for a congressional compromise, one that would allow for at least $100 million in credit subsidies to remain within LPO. Although a fraction of the original $5 billion allocated to the office in the IRA, such a safety net would prevent entire programs, like the DOE’s Advanced Technology Vehicles Manufacturing Loan Program, from shuttering. Just as important, Shah said, it would uphold the LPO’s loan authority, allowing it to maintain deals with utilities and other companies. 

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