Key takeaways

  • The new targets cover the seafood sector only.
  • They offer companies a structured way to address ocean sustainability and align their operations with scientific thresholds.
  • Expanding engagement beyond seafood, into shipping, logistics and manufacturing, will further strengthen business resilience and ocean health.

The Science Based Targets Network (SBTN) has launched the first-ever ocean science-based targets, focusing initially on the seafood sector. This milestone completes SBTN’s initial suite of nature-related targets, alongside those for land and freshwater, and provides a structured, scientific framework for companies to address their ocean impacts.

For sustainability teams facing growing regulatory and investor scrutiny, adopting these targets will signal a commitment to improve biodiversity while addressing risks to global supply chains.  

Why this matters 

Continued overfishing, habitat destruction and biodiversity loss threaten both marine ecosystems and business resilience. Seafood providers, pharmaceutical companies and many other industries source directly from the ocean, and marine transportation is essential for worldwide trade. More than 80% of global trade by volume is transported via maritime shipping.

Despite these material risks, there is a dearth of corporate ocean commitments — especially those that go beyond blue carbon (i.e., carbon stored in marine ecosystems) to include biodiversity. SBTN’s new targets provide a pathway to bridge that gap, offering companies a structured way to address ocean sustainability and align their operations with scientific thresholds, ensuring long-term viability while mitigating reputational and regulatory risks.

“With the first ocean science-based targets for seafood, companies now have a globally recognized framework to scale action across land, freshwater and ocean,” said Erin Billman, executive director of SBTN. “These targets help companies move beyond incremental change, strengthening marine ecosystems, supply chain resilience and long-term viability.” 

What’s included 

Developed under the leadership of World Wildlife Fund and Conservation International — with input from key industry stakeholders like Sustainable Fisheries Partnership and the Aquaculture Stewardship Council — the targets were piloted in 2024 by four companies with materiality in the ocean and seafood systems, including Danish aquaculture company Musholm A/S and Orkla Foods in Sweden.

Following a public consultation, SBTN refined its approach to cover three key goals for companies in the seafood and aquaculture sector:

  • Avoid and reduce overexploitation: Ensure sustainable sourcing of wild-catch fisheries and reduce reliance on overexploited stocks.
  • Protect structural habitats: Address the impact of seafood operations on critical marine ecosystems, such as coral reefs and seagrasses.
  • Reduce risks to marine wildlife: Mitigating risks from fishing and aquaculture practices on vulnerable marine species.

Each target includes multiple pathways for action, ranging from direct operational changes to engagement in jurisdictional and ecosystem-based initiatives. For example, a company sourcing wild-catch seafood may set a target such as: “By 2030, we will reduce sourcing of Atlantic blue marlin by 13 percent compared to a 2025 baseline.” 

This ensures that overexploited stocks have time to recover while promoting sustainable practices.

An advance, but more is needed

The new targets represent a major step forward for corporate ocean action but only scratch the surface. Starting with fisheries makes sense. At the same time, many other industries also depend on healthy marine ecosystems. For example, pharmaceuticals and agriculture rely on marine resources, and marine-derived compounds are used in medicines and skincare. Fishmeal, meanwhile, is a key ingredient in animal feed. 

Ensuring that these sectors recognize their role in ocean stewardship will be key to long-term success.

The ocean is also an emerging source of sustainable materials, such as seaweed-based plastic alternatives that could transform packaging and reduce dependence on fossil fuels. If marine ecosystems continue to decline, new opportunities will be be lost, fueling materials shortages and increasing costs.

We’ve already seen how fragile supply chains are when ocean access is restricted. The Ever Given blockage in 2021 delayed $9.6 billion in goods per day when a container ship ran aground and blocked the Suez Canal, and Red Sea attacks by Houthi forces have forced costly rerouting since 2023. While these disruptions resulted from physical blockages, marine ecosystem collapse could create similar risks at a systemic level.

SBTN’s targets lay a strong foundation, and expanding engagement beyond seafood, into shipping, logistics and manufacturing will further strengthen business resilience and ocean health.

What’s next

Companies in the seafood and aquaculture sector can now begin setting their own ocean-related science-based targets. Early adopters will not only position themselves as sustainability leaders but also gain a head start in regulatory alignment and supply chain resilience.

But for ocean sustainability to be truly effective, other industries beyond seafood producers must be held accountable as well. There’s growing recognition that investors and industry leaders can play a critical role in expanding targets beyond fisheries and creating a clear business case for broader ocean stewardship. The economic risks of ignoring ocean sustainability — disrupted supply chains, increased insurance costs for marine transport, loss of biodiversity affecting raw material availability — are too significant to overlook.

For more information, or to express interest in setting seafood science-based targets, visit SBTN’s Ocean Hub page.

The post The first science-based targets for oceans are out. Here’s what you should know appeared first on Trellis.

Key takeaways

  • The EU’s cap-and-trade scheme — the Emissions Trading System (ETS) — released data showing that participating sectors have reduced emission to 50 percent of 2005 levels.
  • The reductions keep the EU on track to meet its 62 percent emissions decrease by 2030 goal — thanks, in large part, to a 12 percent reduction in the power sector.
  • The ETS’s progress proves climate mitigation economics can be a success, just as the EU has been slowly shifting right after its 2024 elections.

The European Union’s oft-criticized Emissions Trading System (EU ETS) has reduced emissions from participating sectors by 50 percent, according to new data, in the process helping the EU stay on track to achieve its 2030 target of lowering emissions by 62 percent.

The scheme assigns a cap to the CO2 produced by companies, while creating incentives to reduce those emissions. EU ETS is similar to cap-and-trade laws established in U.S. states, including Washington and California. European companies purchase a set amount of emission allowances that covers their expected emissions for one year. If a company emits more than its allotted allowances, it must either purchase allowances from other companies that came in under their cap, or pay a fine.

The price of carbon is set by the market, as companies buy and sell allowances.

As of Mar. 31, 2025, sectors covered by the system demonstrated a 5 percent reduction in total emissions in 2024, compared to 2023, cutting ETS emissions to around half of 2005 levels.

The sectors covered include:

  • Electricity generation: The leading sector in decreasing emissions, power producers reduced emissions by 12 percent below 2023 levels, driven mostly by increased renewable energy.
  • Industry: The most wide-reaching of the categories, this includes the energy-intensive production of fertilizer and cement. Industry emissions remained stable from 2023 to 2024.
  • Aviation: The only category to see a rise in emissions, which increased by 15 percent compared to 2023, likely due to the re-inclusion of non-domestic flights recently added under ETS rules.
  • Maritime: The newest sector to enter the system lacks previous data on emissions for comparison.

Notable timing

This success happens during a time of change within the EU. The European Parliament recently voted to delay its compliance timeline for the seminal Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) and Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), pushing back the 2026 and 2027 dates to 2028 and 2029.

Meanwhile, elections in the summer of 2024 saw the makeup of EU representatives shift to the right. Far-right groups from Germany, France and Italy among others gained 189 seats in the EU, more than a quarter of the total.

The post EU’s carbon pricing scheme lowers emissions to 50% of 2005 levels appeared first on Trellis.

Key takeaways:

  • B Lab published the seventh edition of the Certified B Corp standard.
  • The update raises the certification bar for companies with more than 1,000 employees or $350 million in sales.
  • Certified companies will need to demonstrate improvements against baselines to keep their status.   

B Lab Global published a 683-page revision to the B Corp certification standards that requires companies to meet minimum performance thresholds across seven environmental, social and governance topics and commit to continuous improvement after certification.

The sweeping overhaul released April 8 was required under the nonprofit’s governance policy and comes after four years of consultation and more than 25,000 feedback comments. 

This seventh edition of the standard raises the bar for participation, as more large organizations seek the designation. It also integrates and recognizes methodologies used by other nonprofits focused on ESG frameworks including the Science Based Targets initiative, the Global Reporting Initiative and Fairtrade International. 

While most of the almost 10,000 Certified B Corp companies are small or midsize organizations, multinationals including food companies Bonduell and Danone, apparel designer Patagonia and cosmetics maker Natura & Co. have earned the certification.

“The goal here is to create a diverse movement of companies across size, industry, revenue and region to prove that stakeholder capitalism is not just profitable but preferable,” said Sarah Schwimmer, co-lead executive of B Lab.

Companies following the stakeholder capitalism model aren’t solely focused on shareholder value, they also recognize the interests of customers, employees, suppliers and communities.

No brushoff for equity and inclusion

The seven topic areas highlighted in the updated Certified B Corp guidelines, winnowed from nine topics in the original draft, include a required focus on justice, equity, diversity and inclusion — an area where many large and well-known U.S. corporations have walked back commitments in the past 12 months. Dropping this policy was never considered during the update process, Schwimmer said. 

“This is a moment for business leaders to step up and continue to hold strong to what business can and should look like,” she said.

Here are the areas where companies must pass minimum performance thresholds to earn Certified B Corp status under the revision:

  • Purpose and stakeholder governance, including a well-defined mission statement and a structure that ensures all stakeholders have a voice in environmental and social performance.
  • Climate action plan that supports emissions reductions in line with holding global temperature increases to 1.5 degrees Celsius; large companies must have validated science-based targets.
  • Human rights strategy that includes processes for preventing negative impacts in their supply chain and taking action when abuses occur.
  • Fair work policy that supports fair wages and incorporates worker feedback.
  • Environmental stewardship practices, including a focus on using circular economy models to minimize negative impacts.
  • Justice, diversity, equity and inclusion principles for both their own workplace and the communities in which they do business.
  • Government affairs and collective action, which centers on how the company advocates for policies that create “positive social and economic outcomes”; large companies are required to share country-by-country tax reports.

“In the previous version, companies could achieve certification by overindexing in a few impact areas, potentially offsetting poor performance in others,” said Ashley Orgain, chief impact officer for household cleaning products company Seventh Generation, a Certified B Corp. “The revised standards now require companies to take meaningful action across all impact areas, encouraging a more holistic approach to social/environmental performance. We see this as a positive development for impact and for accountability.”

Extra requirements for large companies

The revision raises the certification bar for large multinational companies, a move made in response to growing calls for B Lab to be more selective in its certification process. 

The nonprofit has already made some concessions. For example, it revoked the B Corp status for ad agency Havas over complaints about its client relationship with fossil fuel behemoth Shell.

At issue for many critics is B Lab’s policy of allowing individual operating businesses of multinationals to certify rather than requiring the entire company to meet the requirements. “There’s a legitimate debate going on about the use of the B Corp logo,” Orgain said.

Dr. Bronner’s, which earned its first B Corp certification in 2015, said in February that it won’t renew its status when it expires in September because of this policy. This is the culmination of a multi-year campaign advocating for a revision. 

The company explained: “While some food, personal care and textile companies certified as B Corps do take responsibility and certify all major supply chains to credible eco-social certifications, including our esteemed partners at Patagonia, they are unfortunately a minority and this is not required by B Lab, most glaringly in the case of large multinational companies and their enormous supply chains.”

Dr. Bronner’s earned the highest B Corp certification rating to date in 2022, with a score of 206.7. Under the current system, the average score of companies completing a B Corp assessment is 50.9 – the minimum for certification is 80.

The revision published this week layers additional requirements for companies as they grow, based on the number of people they employ or revenue (whichever is larger). Companies with more than 1,000 workers and more than $350 million in sales must:

  • Publish a time-bound plan to trace environmental and human rights impacts of their highest-raw materials
  • Provide data about their gender wage gap
  • Include environmental and social performance targets in executive incentives

Continuous improvement required

Current B Corps due to re-certify in 2025 may submit using the sixth version of the standards until June 30; they’ll need to move to the new ones in 2028.

Companies that have never certified under B Corp have until Dec. 31 to certify under the old requirements.

The cost to certify starts with a one-time fee of $150 for companies with less than $500,000 in revenue, along with a $2,000 annual membership. B Lab doesn’t publicly publish the cost for companies with $1 billion in revenue; it depends on the complexity of the business.

“We want as many companies as possible to come with us,” Schwimmer said. “We are giving them this transition period to adapt and learn.”

B Lab anticipates that adoption of the new standards will pick up first in Europe, where the B Corp certification assessment could be used as a framework for companies to comply with the European Union’s sustainability and ESG reporting mandate.

B Corp Certified companies will need to provide performance updates against their baseline during their certification period. Those disclosures will require third-party assurance. The details of that governance are still being finalized, Schwimmer said, and are likely to vary from region to region.

The post B Corp certification overhaul mandates minimum performance in 7 areas appeared first on Trellis.

Key takeaways:

  • In a fast-moving, high-volume industry, H&M offers a rare level of transparency about sustainability progress.
  • The company’s circularity efforts are growing but remain marginal.
  • Despite progress in reducing supplier emissions, the road ahead remains challenging.

H&M Group has increasingly positioned its brand, for better or worse, around ambitions to reduce its burden on nature. The organization’s efforts include investing in circularity and driving down emissions across its thousands of suppliers and 4,000-plus retail stores. H&M’s 2024 sustainability report revealed the tensions between its latest achievements and the work that remains.

In this era of hyper-fast fashion, H&M — with its quest for sustainability and relative transparency — provide a foil to upstarts such as Shein of Singapore, which ship polyester clothes at disposable prices straight to consumers and create astounding amounts of waste. Stockholm-based Hennes Mauritz, founded 1947, is one of few apparel giants that has shared a detailed climate transition plan detailing near-term steps toward its science-based, net zero target for 2040.

“We aim to use our power, scale and knowledge to push the fashion industry towards agreeing and acting on fashion being produced within planetary boundaries, to harm no-one in creating our goods, and to empower our customers,” the company stated in its latest sustainability report on March 27. In those 35 pages, H&M explained how it has worked to decarbonize its supply chain, adopt “sustainably sourced” materials, and scale circular business processes.

Here, according to veteran apparel industry sustainability experts, are three major insights from H&M’s 2024 report — with the relevant caveats:

1. Supplier emissions are dropping — but next steps look tricky

“What stood out was their long-term goal to shift to 100 percent renewable energy with phasing out on-site coal in the immediate future for Tiers 1, 2, and 3 including spinning to the finished project,” said New York-based Chana Rosenthal, founder and principal of reDesign Consulting. “Their efforts to decarbonize are proving beneficial by their reduction in emissions thus far.”

In 2024, H&M shaved down its Scope 3 CO2 emissions by 24 percent compared with 2019 levels. Most reductions came from changing suppliers’ manufacturing practices and energy usage.

“H&M’s considerable investment in sustainability is laudable and their report is edifying,” said Ken Pucker, a senior business lecturer at Tufts University and advisory director at Berkshire Partners.

In two years, the company whittled down the number of coal fired boilers in its Tier 1 and 2 suppliers’ plants from 118 to 27. By 2026, it aims for zero. For example, among H&M’s efforts to encourage its mills to drop coal, it invested in Rondo Energy’s thermal brick batteries for suppliers’ plants.

For the first time, H&M was able to count the 12 Tier 3 operations using coal.

That said, the company grew Scope 3 emissions by 3 percent in 2024, due to a rise in overall material weight and a slight uptick in shipping by air.

Credit: H&M 2024 sustainability report

Indeed, H&M may struggle to reach its aspiration to reduce climate emissions overall by 56 percent 2030, according to Pucker. That target would require 10 percent reductions of carbon each year and no revenue growth, he added.

At the same time, the company’s level of ambitions and disclosures lead those of most peers. For instance, alongside Patagonia, ASICS and Marks & Spencer, H&M is one of only four brands keeping emissions targets in line with United Nations goals of 55 percent reductions by 2030 over a 2018 baseline, according to a Fashion Revolution 2024 report. Behind Puma and Gucci, H&M scored among the top three brands on that “What Fuels Fashion” report.

In addition, H&M updates a public spreadsheet of suppliers every month, detailing more than 6,100 companies from Albania to Vietnam. Some 570 are Tier 1 product suppliers and the rest include fabric producers, tanneries, and dyeing operations. Yet the brand doesn’t similarly identify Scope 3 suppliers, which include materials manufacturing, transportation and other activities.

In 2024, the company invested about $170 million (kr 1.7 billion) in value chain decarbonization. Most of that went to using alternatives to virgin materials, as well as reducing fossil fuels and boosting energy efficiency.

2. Circular business is growing — but only to a point

“Fashion is full of glossy promises,” sustainable fashion expert Anna Blom, of Stockholm, posted on LinkedIn. “This time, we’ve got numbers.” For example, resale and other circular business models doubled in 2024 to 0.6 percent of sales, over .3 percent in 2022.

However, experts agreed that this represents an incredibly small slice of overall revenues. Lauren Fay, a Seattle fashion consultant and founder of BFG Lab, suggested creating a new role, such as “a Chief Returns Officer, to help connect their product team with their returns data for better design.”

Less than 1 percent of H&M’s stores stock resale items, but that has tripled since 2022. In 2023, the brand teamed up with resale platform ThredUp to list secondhand items there.

The promised gains from circularity have not materialized, according to Pucker of Tufts.

Yet Blom found more to encourage. “The signs of decoupling growth from resource use are there, she wrote. “Emissions rose by 3 percent, while material volume increased by 8 percent.”

In 2024, H&M disclosed that it created 524,739 metric tons of products. Although that’s up slightly from the 2023, it’s down from 561,087 metric tons in 2022.

The company spotlighted the use of consumer insights, artificial intelligence, digital product creation to optimize planning and balance production with potential demand, reducing waste across the supply chain.

3. Recycling ambitions are big — but so are synthetics

Toward its 2030 goal of using fully “recycled or sustainably sourced” materials in its styles, H&M reached 89 percent in 2024. Nearly 30 percent of that was recycled, toward a 2030 goal of 50 percent.

Helping that progress was sourcing more polyester from recycled sources. The brand used 94 percent recycled polyester in 2024, closing in on the 100 percent goal for 2025.

But Rosenthal pointed out that this count does not include component materials, such as linings, fill and pocketing. “By including all materials in the production of their product, it would perhaps improve their turnover for circular business models aiding in the product feasibility for recycling,” she said.

“H&M is pulling many levers to start moving towards circularity,” according to Tamera Manzanares, manager of water and company network communications for the nonprofit Ceres, based in Boston. She cited a collaboration with the Circular Design Consortium as an example.

“The potential impact of those efforts, however, will not be realized until the industry solves its core challenge of scaling post-consumer textile-to-textile recycling,” she said. “Notably, H&M is partnering with Infinited Fiber Company and Ambercycle to address that challenge, and Ceres would hope to see H&M and other fashion brands doubling down on efforts to scale systemic solutions for textile reclamation and recycling as a core activity to enable circularity.”

For the past year, H&M has backed a new chemical recycling venture, Syre by committing to $600 million of eventual purchases of circular polyester. The startup is scheduled to open a plant in North Carolina this fall.

But the infrastructure for recycling industrial amounts of textiles isn’t up and running yet, noted BFG Lab founder Fay. Recyclers vying to manage synthetic fiber blends are still relatively young. “Also,” she asked, “with the threat that microfibers pose to our crops and our health, are we holistically considering whether producing mostly recycled fibers is a good idea?”

Although polyester accounts for 22 percent of H&M’s materials, it uses more natural fibers; 55 percent of its products use cotton, and H&M has taken steps to boost alternative sources of cotton, such as by investing in lab-grown cotton startup Galy.

The post 3 ways H&M is improving its footprint — and the hurdles that remain appeared first on Trellis.

As a partner at Beatrice Advisors, a multifamily office, I often see investors presume that, to move the needle on environmental impact, they must opt for private investments that wire impact into their ethos. This kind of investing approach can be described as having high “intentionality” – it’s deliberate, purposeful and offers measurable outcomes.

But whether you’re an individual investor, family office or institutional investor, a rational, well-built portfolio needs to include public securities (both equity and bonds), given their historic, attractive long-term returns and liquidity. Yet public securities are considered to have low “intentionality” because owning or not owning shares or bonds primarily affects a company’s cost of capital, capital markets access, and provides some signaling value, with limited ability to drive values-based goals at the company level. 

So are there ways to make investing in public markets more intentional – and to profit from and increasingly nudge green companies to alter the direction of “brown” ones?  

The ‘not in my portfolio’ approach

Let’s start with one unsettling aspect of the impact of investing passively in public securities via ESG metrics and screens: the companies you avoid in your portfolio continue their less beneficial behaviors regardless of your decision to invest. Choosing not to invest in high emitters of greenhouse gases doesn’t make them go away; they continue to exist, and emit GHGs, whether you invest in them or not.

Similarly, if a company sells its worst coal facility, it doesn’t decommission the mine; it sells it to a private operator outside of public markets scrutiny. In some ways, then, investing this way is “greenwashing” your portfolio. Instead of NIMBY, it’s NIMP – not in my portfolio. 

Proponents who subscribe to an ESG exclusionary investment approach will tell you doing so creates market pressure by reducing demand for problematic/offending companies’ shares, increasing their cost of capital and sends signals to management about investor priorities.

But companies can still access capital through other investors or private markets, resulting in a missed opportunity to influence corporate behavior through active ownership. There’s also the risk of pure virtue signaling, without meaningful impact. 

Here’s an example of how ESG exclusionary selection plays out. Consider Travelers Insurance, which produced approximately 2.4 tons of GHG emissions per $1 million of revenue in 2023 and building materials manufacturer Martin Marietta Materials, which emitted 1,430 tons per $1 million revenue. Where is the lowest hanging fruit if one sought to affect GHG emissions? 

If Travelers reduced GHG emissions to zero, it would be the equivalent of just a ~0.1% cut in the emissions of Martin Marietta. Yet prevailing public markets strategy would have you own Travelers and avoid Martin Marietta. It seems logical that the exclusionary ESG investment tends to make brown companies more brown, while green firms really can’t get much greener.

But research by George Serafeim of Harvard Business School, Kelly Shue of Yale School of Management and others suggests that thoughtful engagement with brown companies, backed by meaningful shareholder influence and clear accountability measures, can be more effective than exclusion strategies in driving climate and social progress.

Investing strategies to heighten impact intentionality 

To generate greater intentionality in historically passively-held positions in public securities, a more effective approach may be to invest in brown companies – particularly where there’s a prospect and plan for active influence. This can take the form of strategic engagement with companies via:

  • Direct dialogue with management teams on social or climate priorities and implementation plans.
  • Proxy voting to support sustainability-focused shareholder resolutions.
  • Coalition building with other investors to increase leverage.
  • Setting clear milestones and accountability measures for progress.
  • Providing constructive feedback and industry best practices.

Effective engagement requires persistent, long-term commitment by you, or your advisors or managers, and should be backed by clear escalation strategies when companies fail to respond adequately. This approach allows investors to maintain economic exposure while actively pushing for positive change.

Another way to invest with more intentionality is to support businesses developing sustainable solutions, by investing in companies focused on renewable energy technologies, energy efficiency solutions, and clean transportation, and/or that cater to narrow wealth-gaps and lack of diverse leadership. If you’re a larger market participant, underwriter or anchor, you can also offer financing for transactional projects that align with your values-based goals.

How to get started

Depending on the size of your portfolio and the level of your involvement, you can work with nonprofits like As You Sow or the Interfaith Center on Corporate Responsibility to leverage their engagement platforms and expertise. Collaborative shareholder initiatives  amplify individual or corporate investors’ influence through collective action. Plus you can access their research, voting recommendations and ready-made shareholder proposals. You can also use their networks to connect with other like-minded investors to share best practices and work with their proxy voting services to ensure your votes align with initiatives you agree with.

You can also hire managers that will engage with brown companies as part of their fund activities, or via a separately-managed account (typically with at least $1 million to invest), for a bespoke portfolio that drives shareholder engagement through your values-based objectives.

Public securities are a large and rational component of any investment portfolio. For investors seeking more intentional outcomes from their liquid investments, these strategies can make intentionality more of a dimmer than a light switch, with an ability to slide for more impact.

The post For effective green investing, go brown appeared first on Trellis.

Key takeaways:

  • The IMPACT Act, a low-emissions cement bill, passed with a large majority in the Republican-held House.
  • The bill allows states to decide whether they want to take advantage of a $15 billion to implement low-emission cement, concrete and asphalt R&D and initiatives.
  • The bill was successful in this anti-climate era because funding was already designated and lobbying was strategic.

Despite the divisive state of U.S. politics today, a bill to promote the commercial application of low-emission cement, asphalt and concrete passed through the House on March 25 with a surprising vote count of 350-73.

The IMPACT Act — short for the Innovative Mitigation Partnerships for Asphalt and Concrete Technologies Act and co-sponsored by Rep. Max Miller (R-OH) and Rep. Valerie Foushee (D-N.C.) — is a bipartisan bill that instructs the Department of Energy to establish a program dedicated to advancing the production of low-emissions cement, concrete and asphalt.

“This is such a pragmatic bill,” said Rob Niven, CEO of sustainable concrete company CarbonCure. “It creates strong demand signals to really pull [sustainable concrete] solutions into the market.”

Nonetheless, in a time of frequent and often random cuts to any federal programs related to mitigating climate change, a bill focused on low-emission concrete and passed by an overwhelming majority of the House is reason enough to examine what makes it so special.

It is notable that this bill doesn’t require any additional funding from Congress. Instead, it takes advantage of the available $14.6 billion State Transportation Block Grants (STBG). The money was already allocated by Congress in the 2021 Bipartisan Infrastructure Law, providing states the annual option to take advantage of the funds to preserve or improve highways, bridges and tunnel projects.

Plus, Niven noted, the majority of cement, concrete and asphalt company customers and stakeholders want their product to be low-emissions. And one of the only commonalities between all Congress-members, regardless of party, is the need for roads and and parking lots.

Language for successful lobbying

IMPACT now needs to make it’s way through the Senate, something Niven and his team have been preparing for.

“We’ve had repeated conversations on the Senate side with the sponsors of that parallel legislation,” said Niven. “We’ve had multiple conversations about innovation in the concrete industry and the opportunity with such legislation.” The Senate side sponsors are Chris Coons (D-Del.) and Thom Tillis (R-N.C.).

Crucial to swaying Republican legislators was the language used in advocacy and the bill itself.

“IMPACT creates strong demand signals by empowering the Federal Highways and state DOT’s to be able to use their procurement power to really pull these solutions into the market,” said Niven.

Translation: The power to create these specific markets lies completely with the states.

“Each state has to want to innovate construction materials in the first place, which is one of the reasons that this is a crowd pleaser,” said Joe Hicken, vice president of business development and policy at Sublime Systems, a clean cement startup, “The IMPACT Act really delegates the locus and the ownership to each state that’s actually doing the building of the infrastructure projects.”

How businesses can get involved

Niven noted that IMPACT “equips companies with an R&D program,” meaning that if companies haven’t yet integrated low-emissions tactics into their operations, the legislation would provide funds to do so. In any case, any parties interested in making sure those funds become available should:

  • Contact your senator to encourage them to vote for the IMPACT Act; and
  • If the bill becomes law, inform your governor that you want your state to participate in IMPACT-related programs.

[Connect with more than 3,500 professionals decarbonizing and future-proofing their organizations and supply chains through climate technologies at VERGE, Oct. 28-30, San Jose.]

The post Why a low-emissions cement bill easily passed the House — and might survive the Senate, too appeared first on Trellis.

Key takeaways:

  • The pants stand out for their low price point and high percentage of recycled material.
  • Brands, yarn and fabric makers, working with nonprofit Accelerating Circularity, collaborated to build a circular production system.
  • The effort demonstrated that blending fiber from secondhand clothes with virgin cotton is technically feasible for denim at scale.

Wrangler’s latest jeans for Walmart are the first relatively inexpensive fashion product to feature a significant amount of recycled cotton from used clothes. The dark men’s jeans, which are also recyclable, debuted on March 7 and were the result of a collaboration with waste collectors, yarn spinners and denim makers to scratch-build a circular manufacturing system.

The $39.99 Accelerating Circularity jeans contain 26 percent recycled cotton, half from pre-owned garments and half from factory discards.

“That is the thing, that it can go to the mass market level,” said Dhruv Agarwal, vice president of innovation and research and development at Wrangler’s parent company, Kontoor Brands. “That is the signal we are sending — that we can do it.”

The jeans are double the price of other Wranglers at Walmart but remain less costly than others with recycled fibers. For example, in 2022 Levi’s Circular 501 jeans, costing more than $100 each, blended recycled Circulose material from waste textiles with organic cotton.

Although Wrangler made fewer than 2,000 of the new jeans for online sales only, circularity advocates see them as a sign of things to come.

“Wrangler’s Accelerating Circularity jean stands out by utilizing pre-existing waste, effectively giving materials a second life,” said Chana Rosenthal, founder of reDesign consulting in New York City and a former Ralph Lauren denim design director.

“This is a hero story,” said Lauren Fay, founder of the Seattle fashion sustainability consultancy BFG Lab. “I hope that Walmart and Wrangler have aggressive plans to scale this model that is not connected to the ROI on the jeans project,”

The Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans at Walmart.com.
The Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans on Walmart.com.
Source: Wrangler, Walmart

The effort is Kontoor Brands’ latest experiment to diversify sourcing and therefore reduce dependence on natural resources, including virgin cotton and water, according to Agarwal. However, further mainstreaming circular fashion requires driving down the costs of materials and processes that treat waste as a resource — which policies and advances in chemical recycling could accelerate, he added.

“You cannot just achieve 100 percent recycled; you basically start somewhere,” Agarwal said. “You need to see the economies of scale. You need to see the quality of the product. It’s a dynamic, continuous improvement process.”

Kontoor’s climate targets

Kontoor, which was spun off from VF Corporation in 2019, is based in Greensboro, North Carolina, where Wrangler jeans emerged in the late 1940s as a favorite among rodeo cowboys. Kontoor also runs the 136-year-old Lee and 3-year-old Rock & Republic denim brands.

Using more recycled materials is a small but important component of the corporation’s goal, approved by the Science Based Targets initiative, to shrink emissions by 46.2 percent by 2030 across Scopes 1, 2 and 3 over a 2019 baseline, according to Agarwal.

The company is developing a strategy for “circular pathways” of recycling, resale, upcycling, reuse and repair, according to Agarwal. Designing durable garments with circularity principles is another element. Among Kontoor’s other attempts to advance circularity:

  • In 2023, a Circularity Working Group at Kontoor began embedding circular principles into product design standards. Designers and product developers also work together with procurement and sustainability staff to incorporate circular principles into garments.
  • By 2023, Kontoor’s sourcing had reached 74 percent “preferred cotton,” which includes verified recycled cotton, toward a target of 100 percent for 2025.
  • In 2022 and 2024, Kontoor sold Wrangler Reborn vintage and upcycled denim designs dating back to the 1950s.
  • Kontoor participated in the Jeans ReDesign project of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which from 2019 to 2023 engaged scores of brands to design jeans for circularity. 
  • Wrangler’s fall 2021 collection involved an early foray into chemical recycling that used “regenerated fiber” from Finnish company Infinited Fiber.

How to build a circular system

Kontoor has worked for several years with the nonprofit Accelerating Circularity, which led the partnership to craft the five-pocket Wrangler jeans. Creating a circular production system departed from the typical linear processes of growing a crop, then creating fibers, fabric and a garment that eventually gets thrown away. “We’re making a transformation, and transformation is hard,” said Karla Magruder, founder of Accelerating Circularity. 

That effort engaged companies across the apparel value chain. Together, the partners determined how to ensure that the final garment could be recycled, by blending 99 percent cotton with only 1 percent elastane. They settled on mix of mostly virgin cotton, plus waste split between factory clippings and pre-worn “post-consumer” knits, Magruder said.

Magruder likened the process of sourcing waste material — from South America, India and the U.S. — to growing and harvesting a crop for fiber. “This is our feedstock,” she said. “But this isn’t a commodity yet, so we’re having to gather it from scratch and then pre-process it.”

Secondhand clothing trader Bank & Vogue collected used clothes, and Martex gathered the production scrap. Tons of the material was then shipped to Giotex and Estopas, which shredded and recycled it into rough fibers. After that, yarn manufacturer Parkdale Mills spun both the recycled fibers and the virgin cotton into yarn. Cone Denim wove that into denim on production-scale equipment, according to Magruder. Wrangler’s cutting and sewing happened in Mexico.

Accelerating Circularity’s North American pilot projects have recycled 23 metric tons of waste cotton. The organization plans to recycle another 325 metric tons under its commitment to the Clinton Global Initiative Commitment to Action.

What sustainability pros can learn from this project

For Agarwal, working intimately with partners across the value chain illuminated the power of collaboration to change entrenched systems.

That’s important, because the apparel industry struggles with scaling circular production partly because the business case is unclear, according to consultant Rosenthal. “Wrangler’s successful partnership model provides a blueprint for overcoming these obstacles, proving it can be done. But we need robust financial analysis that demonstrates the economic benefits for industry-wide replication.”

Says Magruder: “I want the people who are making products to take something away from this. The sustainability people believe in this already.”

The post How Wrangler created affordable “circular” jeans for Walmart appeared first on Trellis.

It’s not enough for companies to focus on their own water operations and efficiencies. To really strengthen water stewardship and sustainability, they must invest in cross-sector action in priority river basins and value chains.

In a global survey of more than 350 water stakeholders, Trellis data partner GlobeScan, in conjunction with the World Wildlife Fund, found that collective action in river basins is the most effective and impactful way for companies to achieve meaningful water stewardship outcomes. Respondents said river basin efforts were more impactful than reducing water usage in their own operations and collaborating with peers to improve water stewardship at the sector level.

What this means

The GlobeScan and WWF research uncovers a key gap between what companies currently prioritize in water stewardship and what experts consider most effective. While many businesses focus on their own operations and water efficiency, the most significant water impacts and risks for many industries lie in their value chains and the broader river basins on which they depend. Experts emphasize that companies need to shift their focus to basin- and catchment-level water issues to truly address environmental challenges, mitigate business risks, and build more resilient supply chains.

Looking ahead, that means collaborative action efforts in river basins must include all sectors and stakeholders, with increased public-private cooperation to scale impact. Local actors such as municipal and community leaders play a crucial role in building trust, identifying challenges, designing programs and implementing long-term solutions.

Based on a global survey of over 350 expert stakeholders in 63 countries, a public opinion survey of 30,000 people across 31 countries and territories, 29 in-depth interviews with experts across sectors, and research on NGO campaigning on water issues by SIGWATCH.

The post Go with the flow: Action in river basins ranked as most effective water stewardship appeared first on Trellis.

Mast Reforestation, a post-wildfire restoration company, has developed a novel carbon credit that retires more quickly than traditional reforestation credits and offers a co-benefit of replanting forests on scorched landscapes. For sustainability professionals seeking to offset their company’s hardest-to-cut carbon emissions, the company’s first tranche of carbon removal credits will become available this month on puro.earth

Mast is working with a Montana landowner to bury charred trees on 900 acres of burned forestland in an oxygen-free landfill using a technology known as biomass carbon removal and storage. It plans to replant the landscape with native seedlings produced by the nurseries it owns, Cal Forest Nurseries in Etna, California, and Silvaseed, in Roy, Washington.

“We’re taking some of those [burned] logs and burying them underground, which locks away carbon and generates a carbon credit on a shorter timeline that allows a corporation to retire it as early as next February, while also financing reforestation as part of that,” said Brady Paron, director of carbon market partnerships at Mast Reforestation. 

What buyers want

Mast fashioned its carbon credit in direct response to what buyers said they wanted, said Micah Kirscher, strategist at Redwood Communications and a Mast spokesperson: “Something with the benefits of a nature-based solution and the feel-good aspect of contributing to post-wildfire restoration, but with the tangible benefits of a carbon credit that retires more quickly and at a more affordable price than many other comparable options.”    

The company recently raised $25 million in a Series B funding round led by the venture capital firm Pulse Fund, which specializes in climate tech investments. It has also secured a pre-issuance project rating from carbon ratings agency BeZero for the Montana pilot of BBBe, meaning that there is a “moderate likelihood” that one credit will achieve one metric ton of emissions reduction. 

The project should generate about 30,000 metric tons of carbon removal credits by 2026, the company estimates, and it is seeking corporate buyers for those credits. The new funding round will enable it to generate an initial 5,000 metric tons of credits on 100 acres to prove the technology.

Mast does not plan to sell carbon credits for the reforestation part of the scheme, which it calls a “co-benefit,” Paron said, even though that’s how the company got its start: “We view the biomass burial project as an evolution in our learnings and a tool to accelerate reforestation. He calls it “a good complement” to Mast’s core work, which focuses on scaling reforestation in North America.

Regenerating burned forests

With wildfires growing in intensity, they now burn at least twice as much tree cover as they did two decades ago.  Last year, they scorched 8.9 million acres in the U.S., an area roughly equivalent in size to Vermont and Connecticut combined. 

Leaving burned trees exposed further damages the ecosystem from soil erosion and secondary mortality events, such as beetle outbreaks. Burned trees also continue to emit carbon long after flames subside and can pose a future fire risk.

In the past, forests may have been able to naturally regenerate after wildfires, but the current megafires have changed that.  “In high severity burns, management is almost always necessary to restore the natural regeneration processes,” Ricky Satomi, forestry and natural resources advisor at the University of California Cooperative Extension, said in an email.  Key native species, like conifers, that grow from seeds dropped from live cones must be replanted after severe burns.

Government funding for such replanting is shrinking as the Trump administration slashes Forest Service jobs and threatens to reclaim billions disbursed through the Inflation Reduction Act for forest management and wildfire mitigation. Financing reforestation with voluntary forest carbon credits takes a long time and is tricky because many seedlings don’t take hold.

“Tree seedlings are having a really tough time surviving in these hot, post-fire environments,” said Matt Hurteau, a biology professor and director of the Center for Fire Resilient Ecosystems and Society at the University of New Mexico. Hurteau’s research pinpoints to the square meter where in post-wildfire landscapes seedlings are most likely to survive — information that is essential to any reforestation effort.

Details to figure out

Mast’s vertical integration, plus its “ability to work on the ground with the community,” attracted the new investment, Tenzin Seldon, the founder and managing partner at Pulse Fund, told Trellis. (Other biomass burial companies are doing similar work, including InterEarth in Australia and Carbon Sequestration in Texas.)

Mast has signed a second deal in Idaho. The pilot still has key technical details that need to be worked out, including data collection to measure the emissions associated with tree burial and design features of the burial plots, such as cap materials, temperature and humidity controls and monitoring.

 “Mast will become a clear commercial choice and a clear private-public partnership choice for governments as well,” said Seldon.

The post Mast Reforestation generates carbon credits by burying trees appeared first on Trellis.

Crocs is one of the few consumer products brands that proactively talks up the link between using less fossil fuels-derived plastic in products and its ability to achieve net-zero status for corporate greenhouse gas emissions. Most companies champion these goals separately.

It’s a logical connection: Croslite, a blend of ethylene-vinyl acetate and other substances, represents 80 percent of the materials that the iconic clog maker sources for the 150 million pairs of shoes it sells annually. 

Crocs is working hard to change the composition of Croslite without compromising consumer expectations for durability and comfort. Its goal is to replace 50 percent of the mix by 2030 with materials that are “bio-circular” — which, right now, means they’re made from spent cooking oils and tall oil that comes from paper milling and recycling. As of its latest disclosures, Crocs is halfway there.

By weaning off plastics over the past four years, Crocs has already reduced the life-cycle emissions associated with a pair of classic Crocs clogs by about 20 percent to 2.02 kilograms — equivalent to what’s emitted by burning two gallons of gasoline, according to the veteran sustainability professional managing this strategy. The goal is to reduce the footprint by 50 percent by 2030.

“Materials and manufacturing are the biggest levers [we have] to meet our net zero by 2040 goal and find reductions,” said Deanna Bratter, chief sustainability officer for Crocs, in the latest episode of Climate Pioneers. “We really started to focus on how we can innovate and take our materials and look at it both through an opportunity lens to reduce the impact of the material and also to reduce the carbon emissions associated with it.” 

Croc shoes on a tile floor
Crocs’ goal is to replace 50 percent of the mix by 2030 with byproducts such as spent cooking oil.
Source: Crocs

Change management for materials management

Bratter joined Crocs in April 2022 after almost 17 years with a yogurt and dairy organization that would eventually become part of Danone’s North America operations. She was instrumental in her prior employer’s successful bid to become a certified B corporation — a process that requires corporate-wide scrutiny of processes. 

That experience has been invaluable at Crocs, where Bratter is the first person to hold an official sustainability role, reporting directly to the CEO. The company set its goals before she joined; part of Bratter’s initial remit was to assess whether Crocs could “credibly and authentically” deliver on them. 

She’s done that by assigning members of her seven-personal team to work closely with counterparts across the organization.

“I really love making sure that we are touching every team in the business,” she said, “and that they have a go-to on the team to draw those connections and bring ideas and sort of implement from the strategy that we’re building for the business. It’s so important that we have a holistic way of engaging and being a partner with everyone across the organization.”

Crocs materials managers, procurement specialists and product designers are at the center of the company’s ongoing plastics transition. “The biggest changes we made were in the management of the practice,” said Bratter, who outlined a playbook of sorts for this kind of transition.

Key steps to prioritize

Find experts to co-develop metrics

Crocs uses a third-party certification from the International Sustainability & Carbon Certification initiative used to measure bio-circular claims. “A lot of folks from the materials team to the manufacturing team have to partner to make sure that documentation and that process is really organized and clean, so that we can certify and audit and everything that comes with that,” she said.     

Use existing processes where possible

The decision to source used cooking oil as a replacement was based on availability and because it was an easy replacement. “We’re able to capture that cooking oil and turn it into essentially a drop-in where we didn’t need to retool or change our production, but we’re using an input that is made from plant oils instead of made from fossil fuels,” Bratter said. 

Find shared value with suppliers, and create space for new competition

Crocs engaged supply chain partners with their own emissions reduction commitments to find common ground and explore ways to create a new production roadmap. The shoe commpany also added new collaborators that had experience with bio-circular processes, as a bid to keep costs down. As of its last environmental report, Crocs had 314 suppliers. “Many bio-circular and bio-based materials and alternatives often come at a premium,” she said.

Get product designers excited

One area of particular focus is how to use scraps of Crocs reclaimed through the company’s takeback program in new designs. The company collects shoes at 160 retail stores in the U.S. and Canada, and offers a mail-in program. The wearable ones are clean and donated so that they can make it onto someone else’s feet, while the rest are shredded. 

Increasing the amount of recycled, bio-based content in Crocs products is a vital component of meeting the bio-circular goal. The “Keep It Going” product line features designs made from 25 percent recycled materials. 

What Crocs is willing to claim about progress

Crocs uses mass balance accounting to discuss the environmental claims related to its materials changes, which has been a bone of contention for some critics. So, when Crocs reports that 25 percent of its production contains bio-based replacements for virgin plastic, that means across all of its production facilities.

The method, though approved by ISCC, is still controversial because Crocs can’t say definitively that a specific pair of shoes contains that much.  

For that reason, Crocs doesn’t include carbon labels, although it does weave messaging about its mission to reduce fossil fuels-derived materials into its marketing, noting how that doesn’t need to come with any sort of sacrifice when it comes to price and comfort.

“We’re not saying, ‘Hey consumers, if you’re interested in sustainability, buy this,’ or ‘If you can afford sustainability, buy this,’ Bratter said. “We’re saying, ‘We believe it’s all important, so we’re just making our shoes better.”

[Join over 1,500 professionals transforming how we make, sell, and circulate products at Circularity, April 29-May 1, Denver.]

The post How Crocs’ CSO uses change management to cut emissions appeared first on Trellis.