Clean energy industry representatives are taking to Capital Hill this week to protect clean energy tax credits from the Inflation Reduction Act (IRA). Organized by Clean Energy for America (CE4A) and representing more than 100 companies, lobbyists are asking Republican representatives to maintain crucial clean energy tax credits.
“The default position is full repeal of these energy tax credits,” said Andrew Reagan, president of CE4A and organizer of the lobbying push. But that position isn’t set in stone. Reagan explained that behind closed doors, some House Republicans don’t believe President Trump’s stated U.S. energy production goals can be achieved without incorporating renewable energy. This trepidation is providing an opening for clean energy lobbyists to get a foot in the door.
“Leadership in the House wants to start from a position of full repeal of these credits and then work back, with exceptions,” said Reagan.
In addition to the credits, Republicans want to rescind as much funding from the IRA as possible. That course of action, however, is proving more difficult than previously believed. According to recent reporting, leading House Republicans received an update from the Congressional Budget Office informing them that a majority of the IRA climate funding was already disbursed and beyond their reach. That leaves the clean energy tax credits as the main target.
What businesses can do
Essentially, Reagan said, if a company makes an appeal to their representative advocating for a tax credit they want to remain safe, then there’s a chance for it: “Companies and other stakeholders need to be communicating to their members of Congress.”
Some of the main credits being discussed include the:
Other organizations lobbying alongside CE4A include the Solar Energy Industries Association, a solar trade association; and Enphase, a manufacturer of batteries and solar panels.
This industry push follows a March 9, 2025 letter sent to the House Ways & Means Committee chairman Rep. Jason Smith (R-MO) by 21 Republican members of Congress, requesting that credits from the IRA promoting “future private sector investments” remain safe.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-03-26 16:12:202025-03-26 18:08:28Clean energy reps lobby Congress to save tax credits — and so can you
Are some materials fundamentally unsustainable? In the past, most companies working with challenging or hard-to-recycle materials would’ve said yes, believing their material would overcome known obstacles eventually.
Today, the tides are turning. Notable materials like plastic are meeting a “no more chances” attitude from design professionals. As part of the Sustainable Packaging Coalition’s second-annual Trends Report, which launches next month, we’re seeing a clear trend in which the design and sustainable packaging industries are abandoning their past neutrality on materials.
How certain materials fell out of favor
When companies began to work on sustainability projects in earnest several decades ago, most took a “material agnostic” approach. They focused on the “job” that packaging needed to do and tried to select a material that balanced sustainability with efficiency and cost. This led to a system that prioritized functional, aesthetic, and performance requirements over material sustainability.
In 2025, this is a decidedly less popular strategy. While fossil-fuel plastic might seem like the only material facing this pushback, take a closer look and you’ll see this trend playing out for certain fibers and bioplastics, too.
Let’s start with plastic. Public perception paired with U.S. and international packaging policies, global plastic treaty discussions, and innovations in alternative materials have permanently changed the plastics conversation. Although the global plastics treaty stalled and is awaiting future negotiations as of August, last year a coalition of nations took notable positions on plastics. This included members of the EU, South Korea, Canada, Rwanda, Peru, and — fleetingly but meaningfully — the U.S, where the federal government is now advancing markedly pro-plastic policies. These countries pushed for international caps on plastic production and the elimination of certain harmful chemicals used in plastic manufacturing — all decidedly “non-agnostic” positions.
What about paper? Although we’re seeing a boom in paper-based packaging innovation (in 2024, one trend we saw was the “paperization of everything”), the “tree-free” movement is also noteworthy. A number of smaller brands, often makers of products like toilet paper, paper towels and disposable food serviceware, have started to lean on alternative fibers like bamboo to tell a story about how their products help save trees and prevent deforestation. This messaging plays into certain assumptions — often misconceptions — about the sustainability of alternative fibers, yet it also signals a vocal move away from one material towards others.
Companies set material-specific goals
Fed up with threats of microplastics, deforestation or the ongoing challenges with recycling, companies are setting material-specific goals and touting their work to moving away from certain materials. Some recent examples include:
Google’s goal to eliminate plastic packaging for new consumer electronics products by 2025. Last year, the tech behemoth made news by open-sourcing its plastic-free guide and sharing its learnings and products with peer companies. The company is already 99 percent of the way to its goal, and the redesigns have catalyzed other sustainability wins — packaging weight and volume have been reduced by at least 50 percent.
Amazon removed 95 percent of its plastic air pillows as part of its multi-year effort to remove plastic delivery packaging from North American fulfillment centers, replacing them with paper filler made from 100 percent recycled content. This amounted to the company’s largest plastic packaging reduction effort in North America and will avoid nearly 15 billion plastic air pillows annually.
Japanese multinational pharmaceutical company Takeda set and exceeded a 50 percent sustainable paper packaging goal, asking their suppliers to pursue Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification while also exploring how to reduce paper inserts by transitioning to digital product information leaflets.
Unilever has shared its efforts to “transition from hard-to-recycle plastics into paper with a compostable barrier” and replace plastics “with an alternative material in the future.”
Approaching materials with a new mindset
Companies — and people — are approaching materials in a new way, setting boundaries around what kind of materials they want to work or interact with. Every material comes with sustainability and performance trade-offs. Some companies — often inspired by consumer pressure — are now saying, “I prefer a material with these trade-offs, not those.”
This shift is similar to other kinds of environmentally conscious mindset shifts, like people opting to eat less meat in favor of plant-based alternatives. When people choose fake meat, for example, they’re opting into current trade-offs such as synthetic ingredients or higher costs, and opting out of higher carbon footprints or ethical issues with animal products.
In packaging, this shift is prompting more companies to draw a line in the sand for their portfolio. Instead of attempting to resolve long-standing challenges and never-ending trade-offs for a wide range of materials, companies can lean into a smaller set of issues for a handful of materials they prefer.
So maybe the future of sustainable packaging boils down to narrowing your focus on material choices that help you determine which sustainability battles are worth fighting for.
In just a few years, carbon removal has gone from a niche interest to an activity that many big companies feel compelled to invest in.
It’s easy to see why. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) has said that gigatons of removals will be needed to contain global warming. And key standard-setters, including the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), have focused on removals above other types of carbon credits.
Yet purchasing removals is a daunting task. There are multiple technology options, each with its own pros and cons. Prices vary by an order of magnitude
To help companies get started, we talked to two very different businesses — TikTok and the Japanese conglomerate Sumitomo — that are in the process of building removal portfolios. Here are three lessons for any company considering a carbon removal strategy.
Know all your priorities
Most companies plan to use removals to offset future emissions. But what else is important beyond that? It’s essential to go into the market with a clear vision.
In 2023, TikTok set a goal of going carbon neutral in its operations by 2030. The company figured it could reduce Scope 1 and 2 by 90 percent, and settled on using removals to offset what was left. In addition to a focus on high-quality credits, the company had a less-common goal when selecting credits: It wanted to have creators on its platform visit the projects and spread the word about the work.
“I would hope that we could work with some of our partners to almost demystify some of these conversations,” said Ian Gill, TikTok’s global head of sustainability. “Because it’s very easy to hear about these topics and not necessarily get why are they beneficial.” In practice, that meant creating a global portfolio so that influencers from around the world could get involved.
At Sumitomo, the decision was being made in the context of the GX-ETS, an emissions trading scheme being phased in by the Japanese government. Sumitomo wanted to buy credits both to offset its own emissions and to sell on to other companies in the trading scheme, said Micah Macfarlane, chief supply officer at Carbon Direct, a carbon management firm that worked with Sumitomo. To satisfy government rules on use of credits, Sumitomo wanted to focus on projects that are guaranteed to lock carbon away for at least 1,000 years.
Get help selecting credits
Strategy helps narrow the focus, but buyers are still left with an intimidatingly long menu of options. “Companies are typically overwhelmed by the sheer amount of technologies that exist in CDR,” said Adrian Siegrist, chief commercial officer at Climeworks, a carbon removal developer and broker that helped TikTok build its portfolio.
Only a handful of companies have the in-house expertise to sort through the options. For those that lack such a team, partners like Climeworks and Carbon Direct can step in. Both emphasized the need to do a tough review of the market. Macfarlane says Carbon Direct rejects more than 90 percent of the projects it reviews, leaving the company with 1.6 million tons of credits to offer buyers in 2025.
At TikTok, Gill and team chose a roughly equal mix of direct air capture (DAC), biochar and reforestation. (In addition to advising on removal portfolios, Climeworks is a DAC developer.) They will buy 5,100 tons this year and continue buying annually as they approach the company’s 2030 target. Gill would not disclose how much the company expected to buy in 2030 or the budget allocated, and the company has not published emissions data.
Sumitomo, partly with an eye on a future market for removals, is making a much bigger bet by targeting 500,000 tons this year. The focus on durability means the company’s portfolio will include direct air capture, capture of CO2 from biomass-powered electricity generation and biomass burial, said Macfarlane. The budget for Sumitomo’s carbon removal work is not public, but high durability credits of these types typically cost between $150 and $1,000 per ton.
Think long term
It’s tempting to treat removals as spot purchases, dipping in and out of the market to offset a given year’s emissions. But with high-quality removals in short supply and project developers working to uncertain timetables, longer-term partnerships are critical for now.
“I want somebody who’s going to come on the journey and help me achieve my objective and my goal,” said Gill. The good news is that there are plenty of options. TikTok started with an RFP — leading to conversations with more than a dozen organizations — before settling on Climeworks. “There’s more people than I thought in this space,” Gill said, “which makes it a difficult choice, but means you have a choice and you can take your time.”
With industrial heavyweights such as Sumitomo getting involved, those choices are likely to grow. The company’s plans show just how big an impact the Japanese government’s climate legislation could have on the removals market. Fewer than 10 organizations have individually purchased a cumulative six figures of removals credits and only three — Microsoft, Google and Frontier (which represents multiple buyers) — have exceeded the half-million-ton mark, according to data from CDR.fyi, which tracks the carbon dioxide removal market.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-03-26 13:01:472025-03-26 18:08:28What TikTok and Sumitomo can teach about navigating the carbon removal market
Corporate energy buyers bought 21.7 gigawatts of renewable energy in 2024, an annual record that boosted additions to the U.S. electric grid from such transactions to 100 gigawatts since 2014. That’s according to the Clean Energy Buyers Association’s 2024 Deal Tracker.
For context, 1 gigawatt of electricity can support 750,000 U.S. households for one year.
Just shy of three percent of all renewable generation on the U.S. grid is attributable to some sort of corporate transaction, according to CEBA. The analysis considers publicly reported deals that are at least 20 megawatts in capacity; at least 235 companies have announced deals since 2014.
Companies negotiate voluntary power purchase agreements and other sorts of contracts with utilities for clean energy so they can use them to reach renewable energy goals and claim greenhouse gas emissions reductions. This practice has become more popular over the past five years.
Key takeaways from CEBA’s latest analysis:
The Sun rules: Solar power accounted for the vast majority of the 2024 purchases — 73 percent — despite ongoing permitting and grid interconnection delays.
Nuclear surprises: Companies procured 1.5 gigawatts from nuclear facilities, about 6.7 percent of total (compared with 7.7 percent for wind). Nuclear energy wasn’t even mentioned in the 2023 Deal Tracker summary. Both Microsoft and Amazon have signed high-profile deals in the past 12 months.
Batteries bloom: There was a 300 percent increase in capacity during 2024, accounting for 7.7 percent of capacity added.
Geothermal firsts: Google’s 115-megawatt contract with Fervo in Nevada made the list. It uses a new type of tariff to insulate other customers from the cost of investing in an emerging technology.
Interest continues to grow: 20 new companies finalized a deal in 2024, fewer than the 28 in 2023 but still notable growth.
Half the contracted capacity is operational: 54 gigawatts have been switched on.
What’s ahead
While the Trump administration’s policies favor fossil fuels over renewable generation, clean electricity capacity continues to grow rapidly along with overall global energy demand. The world’s energy appetite surged 2.2 percent in 2024, faster than the average demand growth of 1.3 percent between 2013 and 2023.
Low-emissions generation sources covered most of the capacity increases last year, according to the International Energy Agency. Total worldwide capacity is now around 700 gigawatts. Nuclear power capacity reached its fifth highest level in the past five decades, IEA reported.
Tech companies building out massive data centers for artificial intelligence are at the center of this controversial growth. While CEBA’s report doesn’t disclose or discuss specific companies, Amazon was the single-biggest corporate buyer in 2024 — for the fifth year in a row.
The tech company has invested in 600 projects to date, including ones in states like Louisiana and Mississippi that have proportions of high-emitting fossil fuels as generation sources. In the latter state, projects backed by Amazon account for 24 percent of solar electricity on the grid.
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The first time President Trump yanked the U.S. out of the Paris Agreement in May 2017, 30 big-name CEOs at companies ranging from 3M to The Walt Disney Co. published a letter urging him to change his mind. This time around, not so much.
“Our business interests are best served by a stable and practical framework facilitating an effective and balanced response to reducing global [greenhouse gas] emissions,” the CEOs wrote in their May 10, 2017, letter. “The Paris Agreement gives us that flexible framework to manage climate change while providing a smooth transition for business.”
But there has been no such coordinated response to Trump’s executive order on Jan. 20 that pulled the U.S out of the multinational pact for a second time — nor does there appear to be a plan for one, according to spokespeople for two of the companies involved in that original campaign.
Not just the usual suspects
Trellis reached out to 29 of the 30 companies to inquire about plans for a fresh letter about the January pullout. Broad Group, based in China, does not publish a centralized media contact and was not contacted.
The 2017 letter was notable for its broad representation of U.S. industries:
Consumer products powerhouses Newell Brands, Procter & Gamble and Unilever
Financial services and insurance giants Allianz, Bank of America, Citigroup, Goldman Sachs, JPMorgan Chase and Morgan Stanley
Food and beverage producers Campbell Soup, Cargill and Coca-Cola Co.
Chemical makers Dow Chemical, E.I. DuPont de Nemours and Solvay
Fashion brand Kering
Holding company Virgin Group
Utility Pacific Gas & Electric
Tech firm Salesforce
Electric vehicle maker Tesla
Media and entertainment company Walt Disney
Health care and pharmaceutical concerns Johnson & Johnson and Royal DSM
Manufacturers 3M, Broad Group, Corning, Cummins, Dana, General Electric and Harris Corp.
Contacted in recent days, three companies — Harris, JPMorgan and Morgan — declined to comment. DuPont and Salesforce spokespeople said they were not aware of plans for a similar, coordinated letter. Two other companies, Allianz and Virgin, sent broad statements indicating that they remain committed to previously published plans for emissions reductions.
“These strategies are conceived and implemented over a long-time horizon, and in a way that is not dependent on how administrations change and how political winds may blow,” said Allianz in its statement.
The rest of the companies did not respond to multiple requests for comment.
A new era of silent CEOs
The reluctance to speak up isn’t surprising; companies worry they could become a target of retaliation by President Trump.
The reticence could also signal a shift in leadership style: 18 of the companies have a new CEO since the original letter, as part of reorganizations, mergers or other strategy shifts. Some notable executives who still hold the same title: JPMorgan’s Jamie Dimon, Salesforce’s Marc Benioff, Tesla’s Elon Musk, Virgin’s Richard Branson and Walt Disney’s Robert Iger.
While the silence from business leaders on the need for action on climate change is deafening, some of these companies are finding ways to use their voice — 11 are among the 3,000 business signatories to America Is All In, a coalition that still champions the goal of cutting U.S. emissions in half by 2030 and reaching net zero by 2050. They are: 3M, Cargill, Coca-Cola, Dow, DuPont, Johnson & Johnson, PG&E, Royal DSM, Salesforce, Tesla and Unilever.
America Is All In issued a statement of support for the Paris Agreement on Jan. 20. While no individual company was quoted in that statement, the We Mean Business Coalition described abandoning the Paris Agreement as “a disservice to American businesses and people, opening the door for other major economies to attract greater investment and talent.”
A new United Nations mechanism for validating high-quality carbon credits has announced its first approval, but carbon experts aren’t celebrating. The inaugural project is seen by many as flawed, and its inclusion highlights a challenge to the mechanism’s integrity goals.
Plans for the Paris Agreement Crediting Mechanism (PACM) were finalized last November at the COP negotiations in Azerbaijan, allowing project developers to begin applying for PACM approval. A quality label backed by the UN could be a welcome addition to the carbon market, where many buyers lack the resources to undertake the due diligence necessary to identify high-quality credits. In some cases, companies have been publicly named as purchasers of “junk” credits that generate little or no climate benefit.
Following a meeting of the PACM supervisory body last month in Bhutan, we know now the first project to receive the mechanism’s approval: A Myanmar-based scheme that distributes fuel-efficient stoves to communities that cook using wood fires. Switching to improved stoves reduces the quantity of wood the recipients use, reducing deforestation and emissions.
What’s considered sustainable?
The general principle behind cookstove projects is generally considered sound, but the specific project that the PACM approved is not. Calyx Global, an independent rater of carbon credits, last week ranked the project in Tier 3, the lowest of its categories.
One of the problems with the methodology the project follows is what’s called “non-renewable biomass,” explained Calyx Co-Founder Donna Lee. When estimating climate benefits, project developers must account for wood that will grow back and so should be considered sustainable. Under the methodology used in Myanmar, this estimate was left up to project developers, who had an incentive to downplay the amount of sustainable harvesting in order to maximize the purported impact of the stoves.
The methodology, which was developed by the non-profit Gold Standard, was also rejected this month by the Integrity Council for the Voluntary Carbon Market, another important arbiter of carbon market quality.
This inauspicious start stems from a compromise made as countries haggled over plans for the PACM. China, India and other nations successfully lobbied for credits generated under a previous UN-based scheme, known as the Clean Development Mechanism (CDM), be allowed to apply for PACM approval. The transition window closes at the end of this year, when new and much more stringent rules will be introduced, said Lambert Schneider, a climate policy expert at the Oeko-Institut in Germany and a member of the group crafting the rules. “I’m very confident that such a project wouldn’t pass the new rules,” he added, referring to the Myanmar cookstove credits.
Better baselines
Schneider hopes that the PACM will insist on tough rules governing baselines, for example. To estimate the quality of emissions that a project avoids or remove, developers develop a baseline to compare it to. Many standard-setters allow a “business as usual” approach, in which the impact of the project is compared to the status quo. Schneider is pushing for PACM to insist on a “downward adjustment,” which factors in ongoing changes in the region where the project is based, such as the decarbonization of the grid. He’s also advocating for project developers to be required to apply for credits before they start work, rather than retroactively identifying projects that might qualify for credits.
Yet large quantities of low-quality credits may gain PACM approval before those rules get implemented. More than 1,000 CDM projects have applied for PACM status. Large-scale renewable energy projects dominate the list, according to a 2025 analysis by the NewClimate Institute in Germany. Many of these projects would have been completed without carbon credit funding, meaning they lack what’s known in carbon markets as “additionality.”
Schneider estimates that low-integrity credits representing hundreds of millions of tons of carbon dioxide could eventually be approved in this way. If they do, he added, buyers should scrutinize the label on PACM credits to determine whether the project was a transfer from the CDM or approved under the new rules.
That kind of due diligence is always worthwhile due to the wide variability in carbon credit quality. Almost all cookstove projects rated by Calyx fall into Tier 2 and 3, for example, but Lee noted that the concept as a whole is not flawed. Indeed, if the problems with the non-renewable biomass estimate were addressed, the majority would shift into Tier 1 and 2. “They can be good projects that have really wonderful sustainable development benefits to women and children and human health,” she said.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-03-24 16:04:572025-03-24 18:08:40New UN carbon credit mechanism okays first credits — and highlights flaws
It’s becoming rarer these days to find areas of bipartisan agreement. But according to new research, water pollution and shortages rank among the top environmental concerns globally — regardless of which side of the aisle people are on.
Trellis data partner GlobeScan found that Americans across the political spectrum want businesses to advocate for government action to protect fresh water. While Democrat voters are generally more supportive of corporate advocacy on issues such as climate change or the UN Sustainable Development Goals, there is strong consensus with Republican voters on the importance of safeguarding water resources. Clear majorities of 64 percent of Republicans and 74 percent of Democrats believe companies should play a role in promoting clean water.
What this means
Despite the increasing politicization of ESG and sustainability, the research suggests that protecting shared natural resources such as fresh water remains a unifying issue. With concerns mounting over regulatory rollbacks on clean water in the U.S., Americans may increasingly look to businesses to step up. Companies have a rare opportunity to take a clear stand on water protection — an issue that resonates with Americans across party lines. Ways corporations can do that, according to The Future Water Agenda Report from GlobeScan and The World Wildlife Fund, include:
Position water holistically as a connector for more integrated approaches to sustainability priorities
Strengthen water stewardship practices across value chains
Prioritize and invest in cross-sector action
Proactively engage in public-private collaboration, policy advocacy and restoration of nature-based solutions
Embrace disclosure and use more compelling communications that link water to tangible improvements for climate, nature and people
Based on a global online study of more than 30,000 people across 31 countries and territories.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-03-24 08:00:002025-03-24 18:08:41An area of agreement: Democrats and Republicans both support corporate advocacy for clean water
The new draft of the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) corporate net zero standard acknowledges the critical role of companies in mobilizing climate finance and proposes a larger role for market-based climate action tools, such as carbon credits, to accelerate progress. But the proposed updates fall short of what’s needed to meet the scale and timeline of the climate emergency.
Carbon credits appear in two sections of the draft. First, the draft proposes new near-term carbon removal targets for residual emissions, but only for Scope 1. Second, it proposes stronger incentives for companies to mitigate ongoing emissions on the road to net zero, but leaves this mechanism both optional and vague.
The draft is not final. SBTi has opened a public consultation period through June 1, 2025.
Removal targets now included
The draft proposes new interim targets for carbon removal to neutralize residual Scope 1 emissions. Residual emissions are those left at the net zero year, after companies implement all possible emission reduction measures. In most cases, they’ll make up 10 percent or less of baseline emissions.
To achieve net zero status, companies need to purchase and retire carbon removal credits annually beginning in their net zero year, to neutralize their residual emissions.
The current net zero standard has no requirement that companies begin funding carbon removal prior to their net zero year — typically around mid-century — nor to estimate what their future removal needs will be. The new draft proposes a more proactive approach, introducing both near- and long-term removal targets that would require companies to ramp up carbon removal purchases on the path to net zero.
But the draft limits removal targets to Scope 1 emissions only. While near-term targets of any kind are a welcome step, as written they will not not make a major difference in scaling carbon removal, according to Robert Höglund, co-founder of CDR.fyi, a carbon removal market data platform, and a member of SBTi’s technical advisory group.
That’s because large Scope 1 emitters are less likely to set SBTi targets. Indeed, SBTi will not currently validate targets for companies with direct involvement in fossil fuel extraction. Meanwhile, the bulk of emissions from SBTi-participating companies come from Scope 3 sources.
Interim removal targets for Scope 1 emissions could create demand for up to 2 million carbon removal credits by 2030 from current SBTi participants, according to an analysis from Isometric, a carbon removal registry. Unfortunately, that’s not nearly enough to bring the planet in line with a net zero pathway by mid-century, a goal that will require gigaton-scale removal.
What’s more, high Scope 1 emitters typically have the least ability to pay for carbon removal, as they have the thinnest profit margins per ton of emissions. Meanwhile, downstream companies with high profit margins per ton of emissions — such as finance, professional services and technology — have much lower Scope 1 emissions but higher Scope 3. These companies have a unique role to play in helping to scale carbon removal.
SBTi’s reason for not including projected residual Scope 2 or 3 emissions in interim targets is twofold: companies will eliminate all energy generation emissions (Scope 2) by their net zero years, and estimating residual Scope 3 emissions is complex, based as it is on value chain action. But leaving Scope 3 out of interim removal targets means the lion’s share of residual emissions from companies participating in SBTi will remain unaddressed.
Simplify the calculations
There’s a simple mechanism to solve the complexity problem. Assuming Scope 3 emissions decrease by 90 percent by mid-century, in line with overall emission reductions, that would leave companies with around 10 percent of their baseline Scope 3 emissions to neutralize at their net zero year. Interim near-term removal targets could start there.
A simplified calculation like this would avoid placing new, burdensome emissions calculations on participating companies while recognizing the reality of the scope of carbon removal needed to hit climate targets.
How to address ongoing emissions
Companies will continue to release ongoing emissions on the decades-long path to net zero. They differ from residual emissions, which companies can’t eliminate and will need to neutralize via removals. Both have a large climate impact that will compound year over year for decades.
The current standard encourages companies to undertake beyond value chain mitigation (BVCM) to minimize the impact of their ongoing emissions, but there’s no requirement nor recognition for doing so.
Beyond Value Chain Mitigation (BVCM)
Source: SBTi 2024, “Above and Beyond on BVCM”
SBTi’s stated reason for not requiring mitigation of ongoing emissions is that it is aiming to “remain inclusive for companies with varying resources.” This is a surprising explanation. SBTi has never, to my knowledge, mentioned inclusivity as one of its guiding principles. Its publicly stated purpose is to define best practices for science-aligned climate action consistent with limiting warming to 1.5℃ — with no mention of cost.
The draft says the initiative is seeking new ways to incentivize companies to address ongoing emissions. But this section is among the most vague in the document. Exactly what form this additional recognition will take for companies that choose to mitigate ongoing emissions isn’t defined.
Similarly, the method by which companies can address their ongoing emissions is also left undefined, but will likely follow one of the options described by SBTi in its report on this topic last year. They are a money-for-ton (or ton-for-ton) approach and using carbon credits to funnel investment into projects that accelerate global climate progress.
A framework that unleashes climate finance
SBTi is clearly listening. Adding interim carbon removal targets and strengthening recommendations around mitigating ongoing emissions are signs the body is heeding the steady drumbeat of requests from the climate community to open up all mechanisms for global climate action.
But the draft, as written, hamstrings itself. Including Scope 3 in interim carbon removal targets, and requiring action on ongoing emissions, would transform SBTi’s net zero standard into a mechanism that could unleash one of the most powerful untapped tools for climate action: private finance.
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Amazon will let companies that have adopted comprehensive emissions reduction goals buy “high integrity” carbon credits generated by carbon removal projects already backed by the $638 billion e-commerce and cloud services company.
The new strategy, announced March 19, applies only to companies cutting greenhouse gas emissions across all three categories: Scope 1 (their own operations), Scope 2 (purchased electricity) and Scope 3 (indirect sources across their supply chain). It’s also available to the 550 signatories of the Climate Pledge, i.e., companies aiming to achieve net-zero status by 2040.
Companies that have already signed up include photo service Flickr, real estate firms Ryan Companies and Seneca Group, consumer electronics maker Corsair, office furniture supplier Steelcase and tech consulting firm Slalom. Interested companies can fill out this form.
“At Flickr and SmugMug, we invest in a number of nature-based solutions for impact beyond just carbon, but they often lack credibility,” said Flickr COO and President Ben MacAskill, in a statement. “Amazon’s expertise and scientific rigor means our team can meet our climate goals with confidence.”
Amazon’s in-house carbon project review process
Amazon is investing heavily in nature-based approaches for sequestering excess CO2 in the atmosphere, and it created its own methodology for evaluating them. That approach, called Abacus, considers issues such as durability (how long the trees are likely to last) and leakage (when a forest restoration project causes deforestation elsewhere).
“We’re using our size and high vetting standards to help promote additional investments in nature, and we are excited to share this new opportunity with companies who are also committed to the difficult work of decarbonizing their operations,” said Amazon Chief Sustainability Officer Kara Hurst, in the March 19 announcement.
Amazon doesn’t disclose how many carbon credits it buys or retires annually to neutralize emissions. Nor is it revealing how many credits will be available through the new service, an Amazon spokesperson said. The first credits are from Amazon’s relationship with the LEAF Coalition, which has committed $1 billion to development in countries including Brazil.
More than 75 percent of Amazon’s emissions come from Scope 3. The company has prioritized encouraging reductions from a list of high-emitting suppliers that contribute about half of that amount. This new service will support those efforts, although Amazon wants its partners to focus first on efforts to decarbonize their operations. Amazon won’t profit from this program, the spokesperson said.
Aside from nature-based projects, Amazon has invested in one of the world’s largest direct air capture facilities. The installation by 1PointFive, under construction in Texas, is expected to capture up to 500 million metric tons of CO2 annually when complete. Amazon has committed to buying 250,000 metric tons of that capacity.
Amazon’s bar for defining high-integrity is less comprehensive than the one set by the Voluntary Carbon Markets Initiative, which guides companies on how to use voluntary carbon markets for net-zero commitments, but it’s a step in the right direction, said Mark Kenber, the nonprofit’s executive director.
“Amazon’s new carbon credit service is a welcome development in scaling the voluntary carbon market,” Kenber said.
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Waste was already baked into apparel business models long before social media influencers made styles lose their coolness on a weekly rather than a seasonal basis. But even as fast fashion drives unprecedented waste, many brands, retailers and startups are slowly advancing circular business models that keep garments in use.
New software startups are rescuing less-than-perfect items, revealing details through artificial intelligence about how brands, retailers and consumers behave. These emerging services are pitching new efficiencies that help to restore or customize clothes, shoes and accessories that otherwise go stale in warehouses, closets or landfills.
In New York, Alternew seeks to streamline consumer repairs and alterations, while Revive is flipping returned goods into new sales for brands. Other repair and refurbishment ventures: Suay Sew Shop formed in 2017 in Los Angeles; Mendit opened in 2019 in Houston; Sojo formed in London in 2020, as did ReCircled in Denver; and Circulo came to life in the U.K. in 2024. And this past February, the Loom app debuted to connect people with designers to “upcycle” their clothes. Tersus Solutions spiffs up used clothes and shoes for scores of branded resale portals.
Of course, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s long ago set the bar in retail by offering customers alterations at most stores. And starting 20 years ago, brands such as Levi’s, Patagonia and The North Face launched free or low-cost repair programs, while more recently Ralph Lauren, Arc’teryx, Dr. Martens, Timberland and Reformation have followed. Meanwhile, in addition to its no-cost consumer repairs, Eileen Fisher offers special Mended collections that concoct new garments out of spare parts from old ones.
The market for fashion repairs, which has been growing by 2.5 percent annually, will expand from $3.6 billion in 2024 to $4.5 billion by 2033, according to Business Research Insights.
Circular business models, including repairs and reuse, could reach $700 billion by 2030, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation projected in 2021. That’s more than 20 percent of the worldwide fashion market.
As clothing production has doubled in the first 15 years of this century, the average number of times that someone wears a garment has dropped by 36 percent.
“Even with production separated from consumption, the negative impacts of fashion’s environmental footprint are becoming harder to ignore,” said former Timberland executive Ken Pucker, a business instructor at Tufts and Dartmouth universities. “Images of trashed clothing, consequences of microfiber release and accelerating carbon emissions compromise the planet and, ultimately, the viability of the industry.”
Recent research has quantified that repairs have more power than secondhand sales to prevent or delay new purchases. Eighty-two percent of repair services displace the purchase of a factory-fresh garment, compared with 60 percent for resale services, according to the nonprofit Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP). It saves 16 pounds of CO2, roughly equivalent to driving a gasoline car for 20 miles, to repair a cotton T-shirt instead of buying a new one, the report found.
Alternew: connecting brands, consumers and tailors
“There’s a landfill out there with my name on it that I’m personally responsible for,” jokes Nancy Rhodes, cofounder and CEO of Alternew. The former footwear designer’s creations, including for Beyoncé’s House of Dereon and Kenneth Cole, sold at Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Marshall’s and Costco.
Now she’s building a matchmaking service for brands, consumers and tailors. Alternew, which captured $2 million in pre-seed funding in September, is working on a pilot with New York womenswear label Faherty. Brands Everlane and Moose Knuckles are interested in partnering, too.
Retailers spend hundreds of billions of dollars on “returns and churns,” and brands spend billions to lure customers to the register only to lose them after the sale, she noted. “Seventy percent of all apparel returns are due to poor fit,” Rhodes said. “The fashion industry has a 26 percent retention rate when using care and repair services as a brand. There’s data from the market that says a customer is 73 percent more likely to go back to the store within the year based on the services.”
Rhodes described a shopping experience that Alternew would prevent: You try on a pair of pants in a store, but they’re too long, so you walk out empty handed. “Instead of losing the sale, the store associate logs an alteration request immediately [on Alternew], matching you with a local, vetted tailor on our platform, you get a text notification with appointment details, pricing, and then real-time updates.”
That’s an opening for brands to differentiate themselves, according to Rhodes: “Care and repair are an intrinsic core solution to creating an authentic, holistic and circular experience for the consumer.”
Alternew can also provide companies new insights into their merchandise. For instance, maybe 20 zippers on a denim jacket broke across the country, or a high percentage of New England buyers hemmed wide-legged linen pants by 4 inches.
And Rhodes bets that by making it easier for consumers to hem pants or seal busted seams, more people will continue wearing their favorite brands.
“We started by creating a business in a box for tailors, and that allows us to get proprietary data that doesn’t exist today, so we can match the right tailor with the right product,” she said. “Because the tailor that hems a pair of jeans isn’t necessarily the same tailor that’s going to take in a Gucci blazer. Customers get a perfect fit, and tailors get new clients.”
Revive: Making repairs at scale
Revive originated out of Hemster, a repair and alterations startup founded in 2017 that has serviced Zara, Diane von Furstenberg and Reformation. Yet Co-founder and CEO Allison Lee swerved in a different direction in 2022, when she noticed brand warehouse managers using the service’s business-to-consumer repair portal to process dead stock and damaged goods.
Said Lee: “That’s really how we accidentally discovered this huge problem that brands seem to have around their inventory and debt, the damages and returns and such.”
After raising $3.5 million in seed funding last June, Revive became profitable at the end of 2024. Lee said it processed 500,000 units last year, which could triple in 2025. “There’s a lot of tailwind we’re feeling right now,” she said, as brands reevaluate their supply chains due to tariffs.
Reformation is among the brands that views repairing items in-house as a competitive advantage. Credit: Trellis / Elsa WenzelSource: Trellis Group / Elsa Wenzel
Brands create $740 billion of unproductive inventory annually, “the equivalent of every single unit sold on Amazon going directly to landfill,” Lee said. Yet companies only write off one-tenth of their inventory.
Brands often categorize returned items as “damaged” despite what are often trivial issues, including cat hair, wrinkles, a tear in the plastic wrap or a dent in the shoebox. Instead of recycling or donating those goods, Revive cleans, sews, re-tags and repacks them. Revive can help brands sell 95 out of 100 items it processes, according to Lee. The company re-routes the remainder for recycling or donations.
Revive, which takes a fee for the logistics and a commission for each sale, sits between brands and several third-party logistics companies across the U.S. It moves merchandise in a few weeks that might otherwise rot in a warehouse for a whole season. The service combines its inventory records with pricing data from 30 sales channels, including Macy’s, Nordstrom, eBay and Poshmark, in addition to influencers who livestream sales.
“We basically look at this clean system on record and we’re like, oh, Michael Kors handbags sell really well on Whatnot, but the shoes sell better on Poshmark,” Lee said of patterns Revive’s artificial intelligence reveals.
“The sustainability narrative puts too much pressure on consumers to buy better and throw out less,” Lee said, but the bigger impact is in reducing business waste. “The items that I’m getting from the brand equal a million people reselling their goods, and that’s coming from like four brands.”
[Connect with the circular fashion community and gain insights to accelerate the shift to a circular economy at Circularity, April 29-May 1, Denver, CO.]
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