Shengyuan Su, whose position as Zendesk’s director of sustainability was eliminated as part of broad layoffs in February, has taken on a new role as director of sustainability disclosure for Western Digital.
Su reports to Jackie Jung, the computer storage company’s vice president of global operations and strategy, corporate sustainability and transformation.
In a LinkedIn post, Su said her responsibilities include promoting Western Digital’s strategy and impacts, ensuring regulatory compliance and helping embed sustainability metrics and practices into all aspects of its business.
Western Digital, which reported revenue of $13 billion for its 2024 fiscal year, has committed to become net zero for its direct operational emissions and its purchased energy (Scope 1 and 2) by 2032. It aims to cut emissions for its direct materials by 20 percent by 2030, compared with a 2024 baseline.
As of its latest update, Western Digital reported an absolute reduction for Scope 1 and 2 of 36.3 percent.
During her two-and-a-half years with Zendesk, Su established the company’s relationship with Frontier, the $1 billion carbon removal buyers initiative. She was also responsible for instituting a Zendesk procurement policy requiring suppliers to set science-based targets for emissions reductions by 2027.
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Nearly every week brings another brand partnership, factory blueprint or financing deal related to a polyester recycling startup. The space is crowded with young companies seeking to weave together a circular economy that pushes virgin polyester to the margins.
In a few short decades, polyester has displaced cotton as the dominant fiber. It’s found in nearly two-thirds of new fashions. Because it’s made with cheap fossil fuel byproducts, however, the apparel industry’s emissions shot up 7.5 percent in 2023 after a modest dip, according to a June report by the Apparel Impact Institute. And as a result, the industry accounts for almost 2 percent of all the world’s climate emissions.
Brands striving to reduce that impact, along with its regulatory and operational risks, plan to procure more recycled and “next-generation” materials. So far, only 12.5 percent of polyester comes from recycled sources, 99 percent of which begins as bottles rather than textiles, according to the Textile Exchange.
The Textile Exchange Materials Directory highlights clusters of synthetic fiber and textile production. Credit: Textile ExchangeSource: Samsara Eco
It’s no easy feat to court partners in a new, waste-based supply chain within the fragmented textile industry. To begin with, a startup needs an efficient technology to transform unwanted fabrics into something new. It must also procure and sort castoff garments or factory clippings from third parties. Once the buttons, trims and zippers are removed, the material needs to be recycled into a raw output, such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET) pellets. Yet another partner spins that into fiber, which someone else turns into a textile for a brand.
The final leg in this process: efficient factories. “Ramping to full capacity, which they must operate close to if they are to at least break even, is the big challenge,” said Marcian Lee, an analyst with Lux Research.
Textile recycling executives insist that there’s room for multiple players to spin old plastic threads into valuable textiles. Here’s how five of them are seeking to bring a textile-to-textile recycling system to life.
Circ
Circ is building a $500 million plant in northeastern France. Scheduled to open in 2028, it would be the largest industrial polycotton recycling operation.
Many synthetic recycling startups say they accept textile blends, including polyester-cotton, to produce material for fresh polyester fibers. Circ distinguishes itself by recycling the cotton, too.
“You’re really maximizing the economic value of what’s in that starting material,” Conor Hartman, Circ’s chief operating officer, told Trellis in May. “We’ve taken polycotton originating material and made it into beautiful lyocell products and beautiful polyester products.”
Circ’s process recovers polyester, as well as cotton from polyester-cotton blends. Credit: CircSource: Samsara Eco
Circ’s recycled cellulosic lyocell appeared in a small collection last month from Zalando, which is an investor, as are Patagonia and Inditex. Circ recently inked deals with fiber producers, too, including China’s Tanshan Sanyou and Portugal’s Selenis.
Earlier this year, Circ kicked off Fiber Club, a collaboration to scale recycled fibers that Bestseller, Eileen Fisher, Everlane and fiber producers support. Such bridge-building follows the Circ-Ready community launch of partners a year ago.
Virginia-based Circ has attracted $76.6 million of investment, the most recent coming in 2023 via a Series B raise of $25 million.
Ambercycle
Ambercycle has partnered with Reformation, Arc’teryx and Gap’s Athleta as well as important textile and polyester companies in North America, Europe and Asia, including Shenghong Holding Group and Zhejiang Huilong New Materials of China.
In January, the startup secured an offtake agreement to replace about 20 percent of Danish brand Ganni’s polyester usage. That follows a three-year, 70-million-euro offtake agreement with Inditex in 2023 and another binding deal with brand Mas.
“We’ve tried to piece together the pathway to get to this commercial scale, because the challenge with us and really everyone in this space is that, out the gate, the competition with existing fibers is pretty significant,” CEO Shay Sethi told Trellis in June.
Ambercycle is developing an enzymatic recycling feature that would allow a multi-fiber output, enabling brands a “one-stop shop” if they want specific blends of, say, polyester, nylon or spandex, according to Sethi.
Last year, Taiwan’s Shinkong Synthetic Fibers provided $10 million toward a commercial plant for Ambercycle, expected to open in 2026. Ambercycle, whose pilot plant has been running in Los Angeles since 2022, has raised $56 million in its 10 years.
Sethi envisions an industry that balances both centralized operations and regional production. “With textile waste, for better or worse, there’s no shortage anywhere you look,” he said.
Reju
With offices in Paris, Reju piggybacks on its Dutch parent Technip Energies, which counted $6.9 billion in revenues last year. The umbrella company’s resources in engineering and chemicals include polyester production.
European Union rules that require brands to take responsibility for their textile waste provide a boost, but Reju is eyeing “regeneration hubs” elsewhere, too. It hooked up with Goodwill and Waste Management last fall to lay a foundation in North America.
Reju uses IBM’s VolCat technology, short for volatile catalyst. “We’re dealing with known chemistry here,” CEO Patrik Frisk told Trellis in May. “Part of what makes polyester so easy for the textile industry is, first of all, the infrastructure for it has been thoroughly developed over the last 70 or 80 years.”
That frees up Reju to build out its circular system, according to Frisk, former CEO at Under Armour. Despite its problematic origins and contribution to microplastic waste, the material is endowed with useful properties and thus here to stay, he said. “We’re able to take away all the stuff that’s bad, and create new again.”
By giving the waste a second life, Reju can potentially design materials that shed fewer microfibers, Frisk added.
Samsara Eco recycled textiles to make the peach Lululemon Swiftly top of nylon 6,6 and the purple Anorak polyester jacket. Credit: Samsara ecoSource: Samsara Eco
Samsara Eco
With machine learning, Samsara Eco customizes enzymes that “eat” polyester. Last year, it proved it can do the same for nylon 6,6. The result appeared in a long-sleeve Lululemon top. In June, the startup established a decade-long offtake agreement, vying to provide potentially one-fifth of Lululemon’s overall fiber portfolio.
In addition to creating a $25 million R&D hub in Jerrabomberra, Australia, Samsara Eco is working with Israeli nylon producer Nilit on a recycling plant to open next year in Southeast Asia, home of partner waste suppliers.
“But that will only be the first of our facilities where we’re talking closely with polymerization partners in Europe and in North America as well across better packaging and fashion,” CEO Paul Riley told Trellis last winter.
Samsara Eco has raised $107 million. It aims to give new life to 1.5 million tons of plastics annually by 2030. That’s less than half of 1 percent of global plastic production each year, leaving plenty of room for multiple recyclers, Riley suggested.
“We’re looking at infinite recycling, true circularity across fashion and packaging,” he said, “and an important thing to note is that there is no difference between our molecule and a fossil fuel molecule. We tap straight into the supply chain.”
Syre
Syre in June touted strategic deals to supply Gap, Target and Houdini Sportswear with its chemically recycled polyester, which it says carries only 15 percent of the CO2-equivalent footprint of the virgin standard. Gap alone would use 10,000 metric tons of Syre’s output annually.
First, though, Syre has to break ground on the 12 commercial scale plants it originally announced for late 2026.
Syre is colocating a pilot plant in North Carolina with a Selenis polyester production facility. It has the ambition to bring “gigascale” plants to Vietnam and Iberia in the next few years. “This is the start of the great textile shift,” Syre CEO Dennis Nobelius told Trellis in June.
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The opinions expressed here by Trellis expert contributors are their own, not those of Trellis.
As a professor and author focused on corporate sustainability, there’s one question I’m asked more than any other: Which companies are getting it right?
I wish I could tick off a list of role models or whip out a cheat sheet of organizations that are checking all the boxes. But I can’t — and won’t — because not only is asking that question missing the point, but it’s also actively dangerous.
Our obsession with performance
While the intention behind the question is positive, the outcome is a quagmire of confusion, in which we obsess over being perfect at the expense of making progress. Our obsession with sustainability poster children illustrates how much we confuse context with performance. It also stops us learning from practices that actually work, many of which are forged by companies in the most controversial and troubled sectors that wrestle daily with the thorny side effects of simply doing business.
The trouble with our performance obsession became clear to me when Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard handed over ownership of the firm to a nature-based charity in 2022. After a few hours of social media celebration, commentators began to note that the structure would facilitate tax avoidance, that the business still relied on synthetic fabric and that employees hadn’t been given a stake.
This dilemma is also featured in Trellis’ Chasing Net Zero series, which documents the progress that companies are making toward their climate progress — and how they stack up against their peers.
If handing over a profoundly successful operation to a philanthropic cause will do nothing to keep the critics at bay, then it’s time to ask what our hunt for sustainable companies is actually achieving. Are we trying to drive innovation, or raise the bar just slightly? Should we prioritize deep change in a few areas or broad, superficial gestures everywhere, such that the strategy winds up as “everything is material”?
The ultimate paradox in responsible business is that best and worst practices are often found side-by-side in the same industry.
If you were to rely on sustainability conferences and media reporting, you’d get a warped impression of which sectors have the most advanced approaches on any particular issue. For example, there are frequent press exposes of horrific practices in the supply chains of apparel and food companies. And child labor and deforestation in the cocoa supply chain in West Africa and sexual abuse on sugar plantations in India. You’d get the impression that these sectors have the most appalling, neglectful supply chain oversight out there. Is there considerable truth to this? Yes. Does it mean that practices are better in other sectors, particularly those with less scrutiny? Absolutely not.
The reality is that if you want to find the most advanced thinking on supply chain oversight, this will also be found in the food and apparel sectors. Because we care greatly about what we eat and what we wear, these sectors are most exposed to stakeholder scrutiny. So it’s in apparel and food companies that you’ll find leading practices on traceability, transparency, living wage efforts, smart decarbonization, supply chain finance and more. The ultimate paradox in responsible business is that best and worst practices are often found side-by-side in the same industry. Sometimes even in the same factory.
Reputational risk can be a funhouse mirror
If you’re looking to campaign against companies that negatively affect human rights, a great place to start is in the mining and social media sectors. Mine operators can subject local communities to noise, pollution, relocation, unpredictable job prospects and the potential for life-threatening operational disasters.
Meanwhile, social media companies undermine our mental health, polarize us and encourage screen addiction, to say nothing of online exposure to torture and hate speech, and the impact on those tasked with keeping this content from the public eye.
Does this mean such companies lack expertise on human rights? Not at all. In fact, if I want to find the most advanced thinking on business and human rights issues, the first place I’d look is in these sectors. Because of the scale of friction these companies face, at least some of them must hire experts to help them manage and calibrate these risks. That’s why you’ll find mining companies leading on collective decision-making in communities, just as others trample on community rights every day. And you’ll find substantive and thoughtful efforts within some social media companies to tackle online discourse alongside profound carelessness. Both best and worst practice, in the same sector.
The truth is most discussions of corporate responsibility implicitly assume that absence of controversy affirms good performance. But the reality is that the company most likely isn’t highly exposed to the issue or stakeholder group in question. Reputational risk is held as a linear accountability mechanism, when in reality it is a funhouse mirror. If you doubt this, a recent OECD report on ESG metrics found that only 2 percent of all ESG metrics account for the external context — the degree of exposure to an issue.
The wrong poster children
No company manages all stakeholders with the same level of intensity and effort, and companies simply don’t develop expertise in the absence of friction. But rather than acknowledging this, and learning from those at the forefront of a particular challenge, we’ve encouraged generic messaging around “commitments to stakeholders,” PR-driven goals set in a vacuum, and an exhausting cycle of promotional activity and activist teardowns.
Our favorite poster children may not be those making the best effort to tackle a particular issue, but companies that can create attractive business upside from an issue, or even use their promotional efforts to distract attention from more fundamental externalities become sustainability darlings. For example, it’s common for chief sustainability officers at big technology companies to solely focus on on renewable energy data centers, and strenuously avoid talking about the policy influence their employer wields globally in an effort to stop any regulation of their core externality — their impact on individual and group human cognition.
Good-faith efforts
We’ve spent far too long in a fraught and arcane quest to score good versus bad, and it’s getting us nowhere. We’ve tried reducing corporations to a single ESG score, only to find it’s not so easy to put the trade-offs between negative and positive externalities into a metaphorical ledger. We’ve tried highlighting examples of “good practices,” only to wind up cherry-picking the most convenient, least messy examples — ones that flatter our desire for neat, happy stories rather than the real, difficult work of transformation.
What if the primary question that matters is whether a company is making a good faith effort to tackle the negative impacts that are core to how it makes money? What if progress over time is a far better way to evaluate corporations than whether it can be considered “green” or “inclusive” overall? What if we valued progress over time — real, demonstrable, progress — over snapshot judgments about which companies are “role models”? And what if, in our rush to make business “good,” we’ve forgotten that the best any business can do is to make itself better — day after day, step by step, in a world full of contradictions, trade-offs and hard choices?
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Ready to disrupt an industry? You’ve already plucked the low-hanging fruit. It’s time to meet the moment. Drill down, run the numbers and think outside the box. But to truly move the needle, you’ll need to break down silos and align with other game changers.
If the above clichés read like nails on a chalkboard, you’re ahead of the curve (last one) when it comes to recognizing annoying business jargon. The sustainability profession is rife with lingo that lacks specificity, obscures accountability and alienates outsiders. Feel-good adjectives ring hollow. Acronyms distract those not in the know. Worse, the sloppy use of aspirational buzzwords could get you into legal trouble for greenwashing.
Most of us are guilty at some point, if we’re being honest, and the first step to recovery is recognition. The second step? Memorizing the following glossary — and avoiding the worst offenders in sustainability-speak.
Carbon neutral by 20__ — This means little to a layperson — and less to any professional who knows the difference between principled near-term steps and “progress through offsets.”
Circular — The latest glib term for a complex idea is for too many people synonymous with “recyclable.” Which it’s not — and can’t be if the goal is to create and maintain truly waste-neutral ecosystems.
For a better tomorrow — Picture a sunrise in a fossil fuel ad. Now picture yourself using a less hackneyed phrase.
____________-friendly — Waving is friendly. But whether it’s “earth-,” “eco-” or “carbon-,” it will take much more than Midwestern manners to shift paradigms.
Green — Yes, it’s the color of leaves. But also most slime, some radioactive waste and the odd alien. Something vague enough to cover so much can’t be genuinely meaningful.
Nature-positive/climate-positive — Positive is good! (And too often unquantifiable — or a dodge.)
No net loss — Since when is less bad really a good thing?
Saving the planet — The Earth will be fine. What’s in trouble are humans.
Science-based — Sounds rigorous, but it’s pretty much meaningless unless it’s third-party validated.
Future-proof — Nobody knows what lies ahead, so what makes you think you can brace for it?
Greenwashing —Obviously, excessive usage of this term is not as bad as the act itself but sometimes it sure feels that way.
Leverage — As a noun or verb, this stale chestnut is pretty much on every industry’s Jargon Bingo card. Let’s keep it off ours.
Recyclable — Technically, almost everything is recyclable. Practically, most everything won’t be unless systems exist that make it possible. See also biodegradable and compostable.
Regenerative — Appreciating how natural systems self-perpetuate does not overcome the fact that this term is ill-defined and barely validated.
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The Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) and CDP have been subpoenaed by Florida Attorney General James Uthmeier as part of what his office described as an antitrust and consumer protection investigation into a “climate cartel.”
A statement announcing the subpoenas, issued July 28, was light on details but contained language suggesting CDP’s Reporter Services program may be one target of the investigation. The program allows participating companies to pay CDP for feedback on their disclosures, including details on how previous disclosures were scored.
The attorney general’s statement accuses both CDP and SBTi of “selling services to obtain better scores and public endorsements” and “creating incentives for corporations to pay in exchange for favorable treatment.”
Uthmeier also alleges that SBTi “sells companies validation of their climate goals — then directs them back to CDP to report their progress, creating what appears to be a profit-driven feedback loop.” The SBTi’s near-term and net-zero standards both recommend CDP as a disclosure option but do not require companies to disclose emissions via a specific platform.
The investigation will also dig into potential antitrust violations, focusing on whether “coordination” between CDP, financial institutions and investment services amounts to market manipulation.
Under scrutiny: Antitrust concerns
Cynthia Hanawalt, a researcher at Columbia University’s Sabin Center for Climate Change Law, noted that the allegations are hard to assess because a complaint has not yet been filed in court. But she added that this is the latest of several attempts by Republican attorneys general to use allegations of antitrust violations to investigate climate nonprofits. At least a dozen states have also sued investment firms over alleged anti-competitive behavior related to ESG investing practices.
“Previous anti-ESG investigations have had a chilling effect on financial institutions who had been participating in groups focused on setting net zero standards,” said Hanawalt. “Perhaps that is the goal again here.”
Uthmeier’s approach and the decision to announce it publicly differ from previous investigations in that it casts a notably wide net, said Roy Prather, principal at law firm Beveridge & Diamond. It’s not unreasonable to suspect that any information gathered from CDP or SBTi would be used to target other companies, particularly financial institutions. “This is a targeted campaign to gather as much information as possible and figure out other targets,” Prather said.
“Despite the many anti-ESG investigations launched so far, only one complaint has ever been filed,” added Hanawalt. “And the court has not reached a decision in that case.” The case pits a group of Republican states, led by Texas, against asset managers BlackRock, Vanguard and State Street.
The SBTi declined to comment on the announcement, and CDP did not immediately return a request for comment.
Article updated on July 30, 2025, to include comments from Cynthia Hanawalt.
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The desalination industry is in boom times: Dwindling supplies of freshwater coupled with rising demand are driving annual growth rates near 10 percent.
The industry, however, consumes large amounts of energy and produces significant amounts of salty wastewater, which isn’t good news for the environment. But an emerging trend — integrating carbon removal into desalination plants — offers hope of blunting those negative impacts.
The trend is visible at a desalination facility in Ma’agan Michael, Israel, where local startup CarbonBlue announced this month that it has begun capturing dissolved carbon dioxide from water flowing through the facility’s inlet pipe. It has multiple rivals in the race to commercialize technology that can be integrated with desalination and other water treatments facilities. These competitors include startups Captura and Ebb Carbon, as well as Capture6, which has plans to work with a desalination plant in South Korea to capture up to half a million tons of CO2 annually.
Emissions from desalination plants could exceed 400 million metric tons this year, according to projections made in 2022. The theoretical upper limit for carbon removal at desalination plants is more than twice that, noted a recent report on the approach from nonprofit RMI. But limits on the availability of renewable energy to power the process, along with other constraints, mean that carbon removal is unlikely to completely decarbonize the industry. Still, technology from CarbonBlue and others could, if scaled globally, remove hundreds of millions of tons of CO2 annually.
Capturing carbon and cutting costs
CarbonBlue’s approach is well positioned to scale because it also saves money, the company said. The installation at Ma’agan Michael is an initial test designed to capture up to 400 tons annually. The removal takes place in a reactor that uses lime to pull CO2 from the water. Desalination operators already know that lime can reduce the accumulation of organic matter on membranes, alongside other benefits. CarbonBlue’s reactor controls this process and can cut operating costs by almost 8 percent, said Dan Deviri, the company’s co-founder and CEO.
“Our approach is to provide industry with tools to decarbonize, not only without harming the value chain, but actually to make it more profitable,” added Adam Etzion, the startup’s director of marketing and communications.
CarbonBlue’s competitors are pursuing diverse approaches. Captura is headed by Steve Oldham, a carbon removal veteran who previously led Carbon Engineering, a direct air capture company that was acquired by Occidental, a US oil and gas major. The startup uses electricity to trigger reactions that release CO2 from seawater, which is then captured and stored. Capture6 takes the salt extracted during desalination and generates a solvent for use in direct air capture facilities, while Ebb Carbon uses electricity to create alkaline water, which naturally pulls CO2 from the atmosphere.
Credits are critical for some
In addition to saving money for desalination plants, CarbonBlue plans on selling carbon credits. Frontier, a coalition of carbon removal buyers founded by Shopify, Google and others, pre-purchased 400 credits from the startup in 2023.
Credit revenue will be more important to some rivals, promoting some recent eye-catching deals: Captura said in March that it had contracted to sell 30,000 credits to Japanese shipping company Mitsui O.S.K. Lines. And last October, Ebb Carbon inked a 350,000-credit, 10-year agreement with Microsoft. (Both companies’ technology can be deployed at different types of water treatment facilities, so the credits may not fund projects at desalination plants.)
The cost-per-ton of these deals was not disclosed, but Oldham and Deviri said current credit prices were in the range of hundreds of dollars per ton. All the startups expect costs to fall dramatically. Oldham said the company’s models project a price between $100 and $150, and Deviri said he sees a pathway to less than $100.
Barriers to scale
The work at Ma’agan Michael does not mean that CarbonBlue is ready to start delivering credits, however. Like other carbon removal companies that rely on lime —including Seabound, which uses the substance to capture CO2 from ship exhausts — CarbonBlue’s process won’t be carbon negative until it can find a sustainable means of producing the feedstock. Current methods rely on heat generated by fossil fuels and produce around 0.8 metric tons of CO2 for every ton of lime. Deviri said his company is building a facility that will produce lime with 40 percent lower emissions than conventional processes, which it will use to supply the Ma’agan Michael reactor in 2026.
Availability of clean power may also hamper scaling. All the processes require significant amount of power and are only carbon negative if renewables are used. The RMI report noted that removal technologies that rely on electrochemical separation of seawater currently consume 1.9 to 2.8 megawatt-hours of electricity for every ton of CO2 removed, equivalent to two to three months of electricity consumption by an average American household. That will likely fall as the technologies become more efficient, but by how much? The magnitude of those efficiency gains may be critical in determining the extent to which carbon removal can lessen the environmental burden of the desalination industry.
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The Two Steps Forward podcast is available onSpotify, Apple Podcasts, Amazon Music and other platforms — and, of course, viaTrellis. Episodes publish every other Tuesday.
What’s the connection between creativity and sustainability?
That’s the topic of a conversation I had with my co-host, communications consultant Solitaire Townsend, in our latest episode of our Two Steps Forward podcast. It’s also the first episode we’ve recorded that’s just the two of us in conversation, with no special guest, a format we’ll be repeating from time to time.
Both Soli and I consider ourselves to be creative spirits — me, as a writer, of course, but also as a lifelong musician (piano and vocals) — and Soli as a gifted storyteller, both nonfiction and fiction (her first novel will publish early next year). Individually and together, we’ve discovered that creativity — whether through music, storytelling, art, poetry or humor — is deeply interwoven with optimism and the ability to envision a different, more sustainable future.
This is not just our opinions or experience. A global survey conducted by BEworks, a behavioral economics consultancy, found a strong correlation between creativity and climate optimism. Creative individuals were more likely to believe in humanity’s ability to address the climate crisis and felt more personally motivated to engage in sustainable behaviors.
In our conversation, Soli and I discussed this further, not just the research but also our personal experiences and observations.
Piano, punning and problem-solving
To be clear, this isn’t just about those who can play an instrument, tell a story or paint a picture. Indeed, we challenged the popular notions of people as “creatives”or “influentials,” since these labels segment people unnecessarily. Instead, we emphasize that creativity is universal: from crafting bedtime stories to everyday problem-solving in supply chains. Even repetitive jobs can involve improvisation, lateral thinking, negotiation and imaginative work behind the scenes.
Also important, we discussed, is the role of humor and levity. For example, wordplay and punning can be a useful way of processing ideas and connecting — also creative elements that make sustainability work more enjoyable and less depressing at times.
Communal creativity
Soli and I envisioned how sustainability events and conferences could better harness communal creativity—perhaps beginning a session via a group singalong, community dancing, or other creative pursuits — to break down the isolation and build cohesion among attendees. This could help shift events from fragmented compliance-focused gatherings into immersive, experiential creative communities.
While everyone has creative potential, we concluded that expressing it takes practice and persistence, and doing so in community can make it more accessible. We reflected on how the community fosters optimism, and that creativity plus optimism equals forward momentum for sustainability.
The Two Steps Forward podcast is available onSpotify, Apple Podcasts, Amazon Music and other platforms — and, of course, viaTrellis. Episodes publish every other Tuesday.
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Send news about sustainability leadership roles, promotions and departures to [email protected].
Allbirds Director of Sustainability Aileen Lerch has left the San Francisco-based footwear company to become net-zero program manager at Meta.
Lerch exited Allbirds in June, according to a short LinkedIn update she posted recently announcing her new position. Meta declined to comment, citing a policy not to discuss personnel moves.
Allbirds has not hired a new sustainability head yet. It is evaluating leadership needs for this function, the company said through a spokeswoman.
“Sustainability is not a standalone function, but an integral part of every role at Allbirds — from product designers, to material experts, to marketing,” she said.
Lerch, who reported to Allbirds CEO Joe Vernachio, was responsible for strategy, reporting and developing partnerships to advance its decarbonization agenda. She was hired in January 2020 to develop the company’s rigorous life-cycle assessment methodology, which Allbirds publishes for others to borrow.
Allbirds uses a software management tool called Carbonfact to closely measure the potential impact of materials substitutions and other decisions. “Why do we even measure these carbon footprints?” Lerch said during the May 2024 episode of the Climate Pioneers interview series. “The key reason is so that we can understand hotspot areas and actions that we can take to make change.”
The company is pushing to reduce the average footprint for its shoes to 5.5 kilograms per pair by the end of 2025. The industry average is 14 kilograms. In February, it shipped a limited production run of Moonshot, which Allbirds describes as the first “net-zero carbon shoe.”
Allbirds prioritizes the use of natural materials, such as wool from sheep raised on farms that use regenerative agricultural practices, or bioplastics made from captured methane. These factors aren’t generally selling points for the company’s footwear, but they are part of its mission despite a struggle to grow revenue since going public in November 2021. Sales slipped 25.4 percent in 2024 to $189.9 million.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-07-28 20:51:002025-07-29 18:13:11Allbirds sustainability director leaves for role at Meta
Each year, companies churn out about three pairs of shoes for each person on the planet. The textiles, rubbers, leathers, plastics and glues in those 24 billion pairs are mostly a waste: Brands fail to design for longevity, material reuse or recycling, so consumers dump some 300 million worn-out pairs in the trash each year.
Shoe production involves more than 200 processes and 60 components on average, contributing to .45 percent of the world’s climate footprint, according to the 2025 Footwear Carbon Report, released in May by the Footwear Innovation Foundation.
“Footwear is one of the most challenging products for a circular economy,” said Alexandra Sherlock, founder of the Footwear Research Network and a fashion lecturer at Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology. “Due to the complexity of construction, multiple materials, scale of production and the need for durability, footwear could be described as the hardest nut to crack. But if done successfully, it could lead the way for other product categories.”
Some of the latest designs for circularity involve 3D printing, next-gen materials free of virgin fossil fuels and compostability. Here’s a sampling of styles, most available for purchase now.
The Adidas ClimaCool 3D-printed shoes recently added laces. Credit: Adidas
3D-printed Adidas ClimaCool slip-ons
Adidas’ ClimaCool sneakers have maximized mesh and vents since 2002. On May 2, the Bavarian brand globally released a 3D-printed version that takes breathability further with a lattice design that’s airy all sides, even the sole. The $140 laceless kicks are reminiscent of jellies from the 1980s, but instead of injection-molded polyvinyl chloride they use a single piece of polyurethane. Adidas collaborated with 3D printing startup Carbon of Redwood City, California on these. A lace-up version becomes available July 15.
In theory, 3D printing could make shoes sustainable, partly because the single material construction simplifies recycling. On-demand production would also cut industrial waste. Despite the innovation potential, however, Adidas does not advertise a takeback program or recycling options for the fossil fuel-based shoes.
Cozy high-tops like Grandma used to make? Credit: Converse
Crocheted Converse Chuck Taylors
Each pair of these $120 high-tops ships in surprise color combinations. These crochet-centric shoes returned to market in the past year after an initial debut in 2019. Upcycled crochet blankets comprise the upper part of the high-tops, but Nike’s Converse doesn’t specify if the material is secondhand, overstock or custom-made.
Beyond the vintage vibe, the rest of the shoe reflects typical construction: polyurethane foam lining, standard rubber vulcanized sole and metal eyelets that don’t break apart easily for recycling.
Cinnamon spice and BioCir, that’s what these sneakers are made of. Credit: Stella McCartney
Cinnamon-sole Stella McCartney S-Wave Sport sneakers
A cinnamon scent wafts from the soles of these $780 shoes, which use waste from the spice tree. British designer Stella McCartney advertises “our most sustainable sneakers ever.” The Piñayarn uppers come from unused pineapple leaves. Israeli startup Balena crafted the “biobased, compostable” sole from its BioCir material, which includes castor oil.
However, an industrial composting facility is required for end-of-use circularity. The recycled polyamide and polyester in the lining and outer upper parts of the sneaker would presumably need to be removed before composting.
This rare modular design allows for customization and longevity. Credit: Methods Footwear
Methods modular shoe
If one part of this shoe tears or a color feels stale, just swap out old parts for new ones. Methods’ modular design features five components: recyclable thermoplastic rubber sole, cork and upcycled shoe waste insole, biodegradable Tencel upper, vegetable-tanned leather wrap and cotton laces. Choose from either a sand or pine-colored shell to contrast a flame or clay accent. The $252 sneakers are made in Portugal.
However, the company doesn’t share on its website how to take these apart and extend their use.
Thousand Fell describes these Court Sneakers for women, and the rest of its footwear, as “zero waste” and “closed loop.” Credit: Thousand Fell
Thousand Fell
These $159 recycled and recyclable sneakers have been around since 2019. They’re made in Brazil with both a recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic and rubber insole. Other parts feature coconut, sugarcane and palm, while aloe vera coats the mesh liner. What’s new as of the end of 2024 is a retail drop-off recycling option. Customers can mail back old pairs to UPS stores using prepaid labels in exchange for a 20 percent credit. TerraCycle and SuperCircle handle the processing and logistics.
The fibers, foams, rubber and other materials are mostly downcycled into things like insulation or flooring, but the companies are investing in their aspiration to enable sneaker-to-sneaker recycling.
The ISPA Link Axis features eye-popping colors and non-virgin plastics. Credit: Nike
Nike ISPA Link Axis
Thousand Fell isn’t the only company seeking to streamline recycling for consumers. Since the early 1990s, the Nike Grind program has downcycled pairs it collects from its Reuse-a-shoe program. The sneaker leader’s latest circularity-centric designs are its glue-free ISPA Link Axis. The $300 pair was re-introduced in April 2024 after an initial drop in 2022. With Gap veteran Alice Hartley newly leading circularity at Nike, there’s likely to be more to come.
The four components of the ISPA Link Axis — outsole, midsole, upper and the “link system” holding the shoe together without glue — are built for ease of disassembly. Everything is recycled already, including Flyknit material on the outsole from recycled polyester and a thermoplastic polyurethane midsole deriving from recycled airbags. That said, the shoe is petroleum-centric.
The Korvaa Shoe offers a dream of eco-materials and on-demand production. Credit: Korvaa Consortium
Concept Korvaa Shoe
Nobody can buy these concept sneakers, which debuted at the Future Fashion Expo in June in London. Yet the Korvaa Shoe marries several innovations, including 3D printing and fermentation. Three companies collaborated on the it: Mushroom-packaging veteran Ecovative of New York grew the mycelium sole in a week. Through microbial fermentation, Modern Synthesis of London created the bacterial nanocellulose upper. Transfoam’s Ourobio of Seattle used bio-based polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) polyesters for the midsole and structural scaffold.
How easily the shoes could be recycled, if they do materialize on the market, is another matter.
What’s next
“If you’re working in this space, start educating yourself on circular design and advocating for less materials, more recyclable materials and the ability to take shoes apart more easily,” said Cynthia Power, a fashion consultant and co-host of the Untangling Circularity podcast.
Aside from individual companies’ innovations, 14 brands including Brooks and Crocs have joined with the Footwear Collective to move such innovations forward. The group, which emerged in February from the Amsterdam nonprofit Fashion for Good, met in June to advance non-competitive collaboration in the industry.
“A circular system around shoes is more important than the design of the shoes themselves,” said Yuly Fuentes-Medel, founder and executive director of the Footwear Collective. “Designers need the right kitchen, recipe and ingredients in order to build circular products that can create new revenue loops. Build a durable shoe, and the product can live many lives. Build a shorter-use shoe with the right recipe, and we can bring the materials back into the footwear supply chain.”
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-07-28 15:41:002025-07-28 18:12:53Adidas, Converse and Nike are among those advancing cutting-edge circular shoes
Scope 3 emissions are a headache in food and agriculture. Large supermarkets stock tens of thousands of products containing multiple ingredients. And food companies have supply networks that span large farming cooperatives and smallholders in developing nations.
Obtaining primary emissions data from every node in this network is impossible, forcing companies to rely on “spend-based” accounting — use of crude emissions factors to convert dollars spent on an item into an estimate of the emissions generated in its production. This obscures emissions hotspots and makes it difficult for companies to collaborate with suppliers on emissions-reduction projects.
Thankfully, change is afoot. A growing number of initiatives are now focused on making detailed, supplier-specific data available for more and more ingredients and products. Here are three recent developments worth keeping an eye on.
UK retailers are using digital twin technology to track supply chains
Several major U.K. retailers, including Tesco and M&S, track supply chain emissions using technology developed by Mondra, a London-based startup. Retailers link product management systems with Mondra, which creates a digital twin of the company’s supply chain, analyzes the ingredients and draws on a database of emissions factors to calculate carbon footprints for specific products. Mondra defaults to generic emissions factors, but suppliers can log on to the system to add primary data.
Two years after launch, 90 percent of all grocery market sales in the U.K. involve a product that’s covered by Mondra, said Ian Piddock, the company’s head of product marketing.
Once retailers have visibility across their supply chains, they can then identify potential emissions cuts. Piddock said that Tesco, an early partner on development of the technology, has used Mondra to reformulate its private-label lasagna ready meal to reduce the emissions associated with the product by 18 percent.
By the end of 2026, Piddock expects retailers to begin reporting reductions in total Scope 3 emissions that they have achieved using the system.
Granular data is being integrated into carbon accounting platforms
HowGood is a food systems intelligence company that maintains a database of 90,000 agricultural emissions factors. It’s won customers such as Nestlé and Chipotle by researching specific regions and suppliers to produce increasingly granular data on ingredients.
“We have over 250 sweeteners in the database that you can pull from,” said Michael Streitberger, HowGood’s head of partnerships. “When you select sugar, you’ve got 40 plus locations of where you could source that sugar, all with different emissions factors and metrics.”
Companies use HowGood’s data to assess the emissions associated with potential new projects. Thanks to a partnership announced earlier this year, customers of Watershed, a leading provider of carbon accounting software, are also using it to compile Scope 3 inventories and identify emissions hotspots that can be the focus of reduction efforts.
The Watershed link-up is one of around a dozen such partnerships that HowGood has with carbon accounting systems from Persefoni, Salesforce and others.
Retailers unite to simplify data requests
Many retailers want better emissions data from suppliers, but exactly what they want differs from company to company. If retailers could coalesce around an agreed-upon set of questions, suppliers could avoid duplicate efforts and prepare a single set of answers for all to use.
That was the goal of a project by the Consumer Goods Forum, a global trade group for the industry. Working with the consultancy BCG, the forum’s Climate Transition Coalition, which includes Ahold Delhaize, Tesco and other retailers, began by looking for commonalities between the data requests that the companies were making to suppliers.
“These went from one retailer asking ‘Are you SBTi validated?’ to another asking 160 questions in an Excel file,” said Sharon Bligh, the forum’s director of health and sustainability.
The diversity meant that a single unified data request was deemed impractical. But the coalition was able to agree on the Common Data Framework, which launched in June. The framework defines three levels of sustainability maturity — dubbed Foundational, Expanded and Granular — and specifies a single set of questions for suppliers for each level.
The Foundational and Expanded questionnaires allow data to be aggregated by supplier or commodity, for example, whereas Granular retailers require suppliers to report data from specific plots of land. When verifying the information, Foundational requesters accept self-reported data, while third-party certification is required at the Expanded level and satellite imagery or other more specific data for Granular reporting.
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