Climate United sued the EPA and Citibank for freezing nearly $7 billion in funding towards decarbonization projects.
The first suit of its kind during the second Trump administration, its ruling will set a precedent for any future litigation accusing the federal government of illegally withholding funding.
Climate United, often referred to as America’s green bank, sued the EPA and Citibank over its congressionally appropriated funds being frozen. It now awaits the court’s ruling, which is expected to come out on April 15 — a decision likely to set a crucial precedent.
The timeline (so far)
April 2024: Climate United is one of three coalitions selected by President Joe Biden’s EPA to disburse $20 billion to decarbonization projects across the country under the Greenhouse Gas Reduction Fund (GGRF), established in the Inflation Reduction Act.
February 12, 2025: EPA administrator Lee Zeldin releases a social media post accusing Climate United of financially mismanaging the funds designated by the GGRF.
February 18: The nearly $7 billion in funding — held in accounts at Citibank — is frozen after Zeldin’s accusations.
March 5: Citibank releases its first statement, to Trellis, saying, “Our role as a financial agent does not involve any discretion over which organizations receive grant funds.”
March 8: Climate United sues both the EPA and Citibank for a temporary restraining order that would force EPA and Citibank to unfreeze the funds.
March 11: After the EPA requests a one-day delay in the hearing, Zeldin announces the termination of the GGRF.
March 12: Climate United, the EPA and Citibank appear before the U.S. District Court for the District of Columbia in response to the lawsuit. Judge Tanya Chutkan questions whether “the request for an additional day was made in good faith.” Chutkan also appears to question the legitimacy behind the EPA’s reasons for freezing the funding, asking its lawyer, “Can you proffer any evidence that [the grant] was illegal, or evidence of abuse or fraud or bribery — that any of that was improperly or unlawfully done, other than the fact that Mr. Zeldin doesn’t like it?”
What the case could mean for the future
Citibank and the EPA’s actions towards congressionally allocated funding already in the hands of the grant recipient is a first; the outcome will create a precedent for any future lawsuits filed against the agency in connection to previously established federal funding programs. Already, the Coalition for Green Capital (CGC) — one of the other two coalitions awarded money from the GGRF — has also filed a lawsuit against the EPA and Citibank over the termination of its $5 billion grant.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-04-09 14:42:132025-04-09 18:08:23Climate United Fund v. Citibank (and EPA): What you should know
A German court found Adidas guilty of vague climate claims without defined pathways or offset disclosures.
Experts warn of “greenhushing” but encourage clearer communication.
New legal challenges and scrutiny around sustainability marketing and reporting are emerging.
Adidas maintains standard best practices to reduce its contributions to the climate crisis, including grounding net zero targets in science. However, that didn’t stop the company from losing a greenwashing lawsuit. On March 25, the Nuremberg-Fürth Regional Court in Germany found Adidas guilty for failing to detail how it would achieve “climate neutrality” by 2050.
Despite the lack of a fine, the bad press for Adidas brings repercussions for other companies advertising climate goals. The suit uniquely targeted a broad, long-term ambition that underpins an overarching corporate sustainability strategy, rather than a specific product claim.
“It is a warning shot for other textile companies to make sure they can substantiate their claims and to move away from vague terminology,” said Richard Wielechowski, senior analyst at Planet Tracker in London. “There is a challenge here in that brands that are trying to do something and talking about it are the ones risking being hit with litigation, whilst those doing nothing get ignored. This might encourage greenhushing.”
Such rulings bring cons and pros for corporate sustainability work, according to Suzanne Shelton, senior partner at ERM Shelton, in Knoxville, Tennessee. “I worry companies will get demotivated from doing the arduous, trailblazing work of decarbonizing, and maybe we’re not giving enough grace for companies to find their footing and communicate as they go,” she said.
“On the other hand, we do need to communicate with consumers in a crystal clear way – our data has shown for years that nobody likes to find out that environmental claims that played a role in their decision to purchase were misleading (it’s damaging to brands).”
These details about difficult decarbonization efforts, including in Scope 3 emissions, come from the annual 2024 report by Adidas.
Deception or imprecision?
Environmental Action Germany, or Deutsche Umwelthilfe (DUH) filed the suit last fall, accusing Adidas of deception. “Companies may not simply communicate sustainability goals (or climate neutrality targets) without explaining how they intend to achieve them,” said Agnes Sauter, DUH head of ecological market surveillance. “The ruling shows that transparency and comprehensible plans for how sustainability goals are to be achieved are essential to create trust and to ensure legal compliance.”
Adidas shared a statement with Trellis: “The decision relates exclusively to a specific wording on our website, which we already adjusted in August 2024.”
The Herzogenaurach, Germany-based brand has not altered its plans to reduce emissions. “Progress is already clearly visible: since 2022, absolute emissions including the supply chain have fallen by 20 percent,” the Adidas spokesman added.
Adidas is among 500 apparel companies with third-party approval by the Science-based Targets initiative for a net zero target. The company aligned that 2050 deadline with an ambitious, Paris Agreement level of a 1.5 degrees Celsius rise in global temperatures.
The specific legal complaint was that Adidas failed to define “climate neutrality” or admit to using offsets.
A year-old Adidas web page about its 2023 environmental impacts now addresses both issues by defining “climate neutrality” as a concept that may balance “residual emissions with emission removals as well as accounting for regional or local bio-geophysical effects of human activities.”
In recent communications, Adidas appears to be dropping language about “climate neutrality,” which it qualified here in its 2023 annual report.
Adidas discloses emissions steps
Adidas’s 2024 annual report, issued March 5, does not prominently mention “climate neutrality.” It does, however, detail activities to meet net zero across Scopes 1, 2 and 3 by 2050. That goal includes a 42 percent reduction in indirect Scope 3 pollution by 2030 over 2022 levels, and a 70 percent drop for both Scope 1 direct emissions and Scope 2 energy emissions.
Scope 3 is a special focus for Adidas, whose energy-intensive upstream activities create 87 percent of overall climate emissions. Progress there hinges upon encouraging suppliers to adopt renewable energy and abandon coal-fired boilers. To that end, more than half of the brand’s direct suppliers or subcontracting suppliers had made energy upgrades by the end of 2024.
As for efforts to use lower carbon materials, Adidas sources 99 percent of its main material, fossil fuel-based polyester, from recycled sources. By 2030, it plans to derive 10 percent of its recycled polyester from used textiles. Upcycled marine plastic waste, including fishing nets, is a major source today.
Beware making ‘aspirational’ sustainability claims
Experts note that more legal challenges to insubstantiated expressions of ambitious climate goals may increasingly emerge, especially if the European Union’s Green Claims Directive becomes regulation as expected later this year. Already in January, the E.U. Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) began requiring companies to share their climate transition plans or provide reasons for why they have not.
“The same types of cases as the Adidas case are happening in the United States,” said Katie Bond, partner at the Keller and Heckman law firm in Washington, D.C. “There are, for instance, several prominent cases on so-called “aspirational” claims and there are lots of cases on carbon-related claims.”
A leading example of aspirational claims comes from a 2023 challenge, by an arm of the nonprofit BBB National Programs, to meat giant JBS Holdings of Greeley, Colorado. In response, the company modified language about a “Global Commitment to Achieve Net-Zero Greenhouse Gas Emissions by 2040.” The new language replaced “commitment” with fuzzier terms, such as “ambition” and “goal.”
JBS had also made claims such as, “We’re setting time-bound, science-based targets and backing them up with $1 billion in capital over the next decade.” The New York Attorney General filed suit against the revisions. In January, however, the court dismissed, “finding that without the “commitment language,” the issue seemed to be resolved,” Bond said.
Meanwhile, cases over “carbon neutral” claims have attacked Delta, Evian, Apple and Clif Bar. It remains to be seen how these will fare, but companies can reduce risk by explaining exactly what they mean by “carbon neutral” or “carbon negative,” according to Bond.
In fashion, fits and starts for greenwashing challenges
Fashion brands have withstood high-profile greenwashing challenges in recent years. A judge last summer dismissed a class action lawsuit against Nike for its “Move to Zero” initiative and claims about sustainable materials.
Two separate 2022 class action lawsuits, in New York and Missouri, challenged the language in H&M’s “conscious choice” collection. The cases ultimately fizzled out, but companies should learn from them what wording and substantiation helped H&M’s defense, according to attorney Bond.
“In H&M in particular it seemed to make a difference that the company labeled its clothing “more sustainable” and explained why, versus claiming that its clothing is across-the-board ‘sustainable,’” she said. “I think compliance lawyers like me have been saying for a long time to be wary of ‘big’ claims like ‘sustainable’ and ‘eco friendly.’”
Meanwhile, the U.S. Federal Trade Commission has been working behind the scenes to make the first updates since 2012 to its Green Guides. Corporate legal teams, and activists, follow the guides to gauge the potential liability of businesses’ environmental claims. The guides are expected to refresh in the next few years, if not sooner.
“I’m afraid the sustainability communications sector has been the Wild Wild West for a long time, and most generalist ad agencies simply don’t realize they’re overstating claims when they do,” Shelton said. “So it is important for regulators to get guard rails in place, as is happening in both the E.U. and U.K., and for companies and their comms agencies to get the message that sustainability is no place for hyperbole.”
Norfolk Southern is allowing freight customers to buy Environmental Attribute Certificates, which they can use to reduce Scope 3 emissions.
Similar schemes already exist in aviation and maritime shipping.
The company has a goal of having lower-carbon fuels account for 7 percent of its fuel mix by 2027 and 20 percent by 2034.
A major U.S. railroad is joining the aviation and maritime shipping industries in launching a book-and-claim scheme to help customers reduce freight emissions.
Norfolk Southern, which operates more than 3,000 locomotives and moves around 7 million shipments annually, unveiled its RailGreen system last week.
Like other book-and-claims schemes, RailGreen is designed to allow any customer to pay for and claim Scope 3 benefits. When biodiesel is used in a Norfolk Southern locomotive, the company generates an Environmental Attribute Certificate (EAC) for every ton of emissions avoided. Customers then purchase EACs and count them against Scope 3 emissions. The certificates cannot be used twice or passed to another company.
The scheme was inspired in part by an equivalent maritime project known as Ship Green that was developed by maritime shipper Hapag-Lloyd, said Josh Raglin, Norfolk Southern’s chief sustainability officer. The Sustainable Aviation Buyers Alliance operates a similar scheme for air travel.
Displacing diesel
Norfolk Southern’s biodiesel will be produced from vegetable oils, animal fats and used cooking oil, said Raglin. The company’s locomotives do not have to be modified to work with the fuel — provided that the lower-carbon alternative does not make up more than 20 percent of the mix. Norfolk Southern is working on introducing another alternative fuel, known as renewable diesel, that can completely replace fossil diesel. Raglin said the company has a goal of having these lower-carbon fuels account for 7 percent of its fuel mix by 2027 and 20 percent by 2034.
Norfolk Southern is aiming to use 9 million gallons of biodiesel this year, which, if certified through the RailGreen system, would generate EACs corresponding to 70,000 tons of CO2. Raglin declined to disclose the exact cost of an EAC, but said that it would be less than $100.
The scheme builds upon Norfolk Southern’s emissions tracking technology, which checks fuel burn in locomotives every 15 minutes. The data is used to report emission shares to individual customers, adjusted for the weight of freight they are moving, distance travelled and other factors.
Intermodal impacts
Fuel switching initiatives are worth pursuing because no new technology is required to implement the schemes, noted Scott Bernstein, founder of the Center for Neighborhood Technology and an expert on railroads and other aspects of regional and urban planning. The downside, he added, is that they can distract from investing in more consequential changes: “Sometimes fuel switching ends up being an excuse for not making capital investments in a more efficient sort of system overall.”
One example that Bernstein advocates for is intermodal freight, in which transport networks are redesigned to shift the burden from road to rail. The idea was the subject of a 2023 report by the Environmental Defense Fund, to which Bernstein contributed. Because emissions from rail are around 75 percent lower than the equivalent from trucking, shifting freight from one modality to another can produce big benefits, regardless of the fuel used.
“Going from truck to train is probably a much greater impact on decarbonization than staying with train and just changing the fuel ingredient,” said Bill Loftis, a supply chain expert, author of the EDF report and owner of Supply Chain Ecology, a consultancy. “It’s bound to be because rail is tremendously more efficient than truck.”
They offer companies a structured way to address ocean sustainability and align their operations with scientific thresholds.
Expanding engagement beyond seafood, into shipping, logistics and manufacturing, will further strengthen business resilience and ocean health.
The Science Based Targets Network (SBTN) has launched the first-ever ocean science-based targets, focusing initially on the seafood sector. This milestone completes SBTN’s initial suite of nature-related targets, alongside those for land and freshwater, and provides a structured, scientific framework for companies to address their ocean impacts.
For sustainability teams facing growing regulatory and investor scrutiny, adopting these targets will signal a commitment to improve biodiversity while addressing risks to global supply chains.
Why this matters
Continued overfishing, habitat destruction and biodiversity loss threaten both marine ecosystems and business resilience. Seafood providers, pharmaceutical companies and many other industries source directly from the ocean, and marine transportation is essential for worldwide trade. More than 80% of global trade by volume is transported via maritime shipping.
Despite these material risks, there is a dearth of corporate ocean commitments — especially those that go beyond blue carbon (i.e., carbon stored in marine ecosystems) to include biodiversity. SBTN’s new targets provide a pathway to bridge that gap, offering companies a structured way to address ocean sustainability and align their operations with scientific thresholds, ensuring long-term viability while mitigating reputational and regulatory risks.
“With the first ocean science-based targets for seafood, companies now have a globally recognized framework to scale action across land, freshwater and ocean,” said Erin Billman, executive director of SBTN. “These targets help companies move beyond incremental change, strengthening marine ecosystems, supply chain resilience and long-term viability.”
What’s included
Developed under the leadership of World Wildlife Fund and Conservation International — with input from key industry stakeholders like Sustainable Fisheries Partnership and the Aquaculture Stewardship Council — the targets were piloted in 2024 by four companies with materiality in the ocean and seafood systems, including Danish aquaculture company Musholm A/S and Orkla Foods in Sweden.
Following a public consultation, SBTN refined its approach to cover three key goals for companies in the seafood and aquaculture sector:
Avoid and reduce overexploitation: Ensure sustainable sourcing of wild-catch fisheries and reduce reliance on overexploited stocks.
Protect structural habitats: Address the impact of seafood operations on critical marine ecosystems, such as coral reefs and seagrasses.
Reduce risks to marine wildlife: Mitigating risks from fishing and aquaculture practices on vulnerable marine species.
Each target includes multiple pathways for action, ranging from direct operational changes to engagement in jurisdictional and ecosystem-based initiatives. For example, a company sourcing wild-catch seafood may set a target such as: “By 2030, we will reduce sourcing of Atlantic blue marlin by 13 percent compared to a 2025 baseline.”
This ensures that overexploited stocks have time to recover while promoting sustainable practices.
An advance, but more is needed
The new targets represent a major step forward for corporate ocean action but only scratch the surface. Starting with fisheries makes sense. At the same time, many other industries also depend on healthy marine ecosystems. For example, pharmaceuticals and agriculture rely on marine resources, and marine-derived compounds are used in medicines and skincare. Fishmeal, meanwhile, is a key ingredient in animal feed.
Ensuring that these sectors recognize their role in ocean stewardship will be key to long-term success.
The ocean is also an emerging source of sustainable materials, such as seaweed-based plastic alternatives that could transform packaging and reduce dependence on fossil fuels. If marine ecosystems continue to decline, new opportunities will be be lost, fueling materials shortages and increasing costs.
We’ve already seen how fragile supply chains are when ocean access is restricted. The Ever Given blockage in 2021 delayed $9.6 billion in goods per day when a container ship ran aground and blocked the Suez Canal, and Red Sea attacks by Houthi forces have forced costly rerouting since 2023. While these disruptions resulted from physical blockages, marine ecosystem collapse could create similar risks at a systemic level.
SBTN’s targets lay a strong foundation, and expanding engagement beyond seafood, into shipping, logistics and manufacturing will further strengthen business resilience and ocean health.
What’s next
Companies in the seafood and aquaculture sector can now begin setting their own ocean-related science-based targets. Early adopters will not only position themselves as sustainability leaders but also gain a head start in regulatory alignment and supply chain resilience.
But for ocean sustainability to be truly effective, other industries beyond seafood producers must be held accountable as well. There’s growing recognition that investors and industry leaders can play a critical role in expanding targets beyond fisheries and creating a clear business case for broader ocean stewardship. The economic risks of ignoring ocean sustainability — disrupted supply chains, increased insurance costs for marine transport, loss of biodiversity affecting raw material availability — are too significant to overlook.
For more information, or to express interest in setting seafood science-based targets, visit SBTN’s Ocean Hub page.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-04-08 14:10:502025-04-08 18:11:54The first science-based targets for oceans are out. Here’s what you should know
The EU’s cap-and-trade scheme — the Emissions Trading System (ETS) — released data showing that participating sectors have reduced emission to 50 percent of 2005 levels.
The reductions keep the EU on track to meet its 62 percent emissions decrease by 2030 goal — thanks, in large part, to a 12 percent reduction in the power sector.
The ETS’s progress proves climate mitigation economics can be a success, just as the EU has been slowly shifting right after its 2024 elections.
The European Union’s oft-criticized Emissions Trading System (EU ETS) has reduced emissions from participating sectors by 50 percent, according to new data, in the process helping the EU stay on track to achieve its 2030 target of lowering emissions by 62 percent.
The scheme assigns a cap to the CO2 produced by companies, while creating incentives to reduce those emissions. EU ETS is similar to cap-and-trade laws established in U.S. states, including Washington and California. European companies purchase a set amount of emission allowances that covers their expected emissions for one year. If a company emits more than its allotted allowances, it must either purchase allowances from other companies that came in under their cap, or pay a fine.
The price of carbon is set by the market, as companies buy and sell allowances.
As of Mar. 31, 2025, sectors covered by the system demonstrated a 5 percent reduction in total emissions in 2024, compared to 2023, cutting ETS emissions to around half of 2005 levels.
The sectors covered include:
Electricity generation: The leading sector in decreasing emissions, power producers reduced emissions by 12 percent below 2023 levels, driven mostly by increased renewable energy.
Industry: The most wide-reaching of the categories, this includes the energy-intensive production of fertilizer and cement. Industry emissions remained stable from 2023 to 2024.
Aviation: The only category to see a rise in emissions, which increased by 15 percent compared to 2023, likely due to the re-inclusion of non-domestic flights recently added under ETS rules.
Maritime: The newest sector to enter the system lacks previous data on emissions for comparison.
Meanwhile, elections in the summer of 2024 saw the makeup of EU representatives shift to the right. Far-right groups from Germany, France and Italy among others gained 189 seats in the EU, more than a quarter of the total.
B Lab published the seventh edition of the Certified B Corp standard.
The update raises the certification bar for companies with more than 1,000 employees or $350 million in sales.
Certified companies will need to demonstrate improvements against baselines to keep their status.
B Lab Global published a 683-page revision to the B Corp certification standards that requires companies to meet minimum performance thresholds across seven environmental, social and governance topics and commit to continuous improvement after certification.
The sweeping overhaul released April 8 was required under the nonprofit’s governance policy and comes after four years of consultation and more than 25,000 feedback comments.
This seventh edition of the standard raises the bar for participation, as more large organizations seek the designation. It also integrates and recognizes methodologies used by other nonprofits focused on ESG frameworks including the Science Based Targets initiative, the Global Reporting Initiative and Fairtrade International.
While most of the almost 10,000 Certified B Corp companies are small or midsize organizations, multinationals including food companies Bonduell and Danone, apparel designer Patagonia and cosmetics maker Natura & Co. have earned the certification.
“The goal here is to create a diverse movement of companies across size, industry, revenue and region to prove that stakeholder capitalism is not just profitable but preferable,” said Sarah Schwimmer, co-lead executive of B Lab.
Companies following the stakeholder capitalism model aren’t solely focused on shareholder value, they also recognize the interests of customers, employees, suppliers and communities.
No brushoff for equity and inclusion
The seven topic areas highlighted in the updated Certified B Corp guidelines, winnowed from nine topics in the original draft, include a required focus on justice, equity, diversity and inclusion — an area where many large and well-known U.S. corporations have walked back commitments in the past 12 months. Dropping this policy was never considered during the update process, Schwimmer said.
“This is a moment for business leaders to step up and continue to hold strong to what business can and should look like,” she said.
Here are the areas where companies must pass minimum performance thresholds to earn Certified B Corp status under the revision:
Purpose and stakeholder governance, including a well-defined mission statement and a structure that ensures all stakeholders have a voice in environmental and social performance.
Climate action plan that supports emissions reductions in line with holding global temperature increases to 1.5 degrees Celsius; large companies must have validated science-based targets.
Human rights strategy that includes processes for preventing negative impacts in their supply chain and taking action when abuses occur.
Fair work policy that supports fair wages and incorporates worker feedback.
Environmental stewardship practices, including a focus on using circular economy models to minimize negative impacts.
Justice, diversity, equity and inclusion principles for both their own workplace and the communities in which they do business.
Government affairs and collective action, which centers on how the company advocates for policies that create “positive social and economic outcomes”; large companies are required to share country-by-country tax reports.
“In the previous version, companies could achieve certification by overindexing in a few impact areas, potentially offsetting poor performance in others,” said Ashley Orgain, chief impact officer for household cleaning products company Seventh Generation, a Certified B Corp. “The revised standards now require companies to take meaningful action across all impact areas, encouraging a more holistic approach to social/environmental performance. We see this as a positive development for impact and for accountability.”
Extra requirements for large companies
The revision raises the certification bar for large multinational companies, a move made in response to growing calls for B Lab to be more selective in its certification process.
The nonprofit has already made some concessions. For example, it revoked the B Corp status for ad agency Havas over complaints about its client relationship with fossil fuel behemoth Shell.
At issue for many critics is B Lab’s policy of allowing individual operating businesses of multinationals to certify rather than requiring the entire company to meet the requirements. “There’s a legitimate debate going on about the use of the B Corp logo,” Orgain said.
Dr. Bronner’s, which earned its first B Corp certification in 2015, said in February that it won’t renew its status when it expires in September because of this policy. This is the culmination of a multi-year campaign advocating for a revision.
The company explained: “While some food, personal care and textile companies certified as B Corps do take responsibility and certify all major supply chains to credible eco-social certifications, including our esteemed partners at Patagonia, they are unfortunately a minority and this is not required by B Lab, most glaringly in the case of large multinational companies and their enormous supply chains.”
Dr. Bronner’s earned the highest B Corp certification rating to date in 2022, with a score of 206.7. Under the current system, the average score of companies completing a B Corp assessment is 50.9 – the minimum for certification is 80.
The revision published this week layers additional requirements for companies as they grow, based on the number of people they employ or revenue (whichever is larger). Companies with more than 1,000 workers and more than $350 million in sales must:
Publish a time-bound plan to trace environmental and human rights impacts of their highest-raw materials
Provide data about their gender wage gap
Include environmental and social performance targets in executive incentives
Continuous improvement required
Current B Corps due to re-certify in 2025 may submit using the sixth version of the standards until June 30; they’ll need to move to the new ones in 2028.
Companies that have never certified under B Corp have until Dec. 31 to certify under the old requirements.
The cost to certify starts with a one-time fee of $150 for companies with less than $500,000 in revenue, along with a $2,000 annual membership. B Lab doesn’t publicly publish the cost for companies with $1 billion in revenue; it depends on the complexity of the business.
“We want as many companies as possible to come with us,” Schwimmer said. “We are giving them this transition period to adapt and learn.”
B Lab anticipates that adoption of the new standards will pick up first in Europe, where the B Corp certification assessment could be used as a framework for companies to comply with the European Union’s sustainability and ESG reporting mandate.
B Corp Certified companies will need to provide performance updates against their baseline during their certification period. Those disclosures will require third-party assurance. The details of that governance are still being finalized, Schwimmer said, and are likely to vary from region to region.
In a fast-moving, high-volume industry, H&M offers a rare level of transparency about sustainability progress.
The company’s circularity efforts are growing but remain marginal.
Despite progress in reducing supplier emissions, the road ahead remains challenging.
H&M Group has increasingly positioned its brand, for better or worse, around ambitions to reduce its burden on nature. The organization’s efforts include investing in circularity and driving down emissions across its thousands of suppliers and 4,000-plus retail stores. H&M’s 2024 sustainability report revealed the tensions between its latest achievements and the work that remains.
In this era of hyper-fast fashion, H&M — with its quest for sustainability and relative transparency — provide a foil to upstarts such as Shein of Singapore, which ship polyester clothes at disposable prices straight to consumers and create astounding amounts of waste. Stockholm-based Hennes Mauritz, founded 1947, is one of few apparel giants that has shared a detailed climate transition plan detailing near-term steps toward its science-based, net zero target for 2040.
“We aim to use our power, scale and knowledge to push the fashion industry towards agreeing and acting on fashion being produced within planetary boundaries, to harm no-one in creating our goods, and to empower our customers,” the company stated in its latest sustainability report on March 27. In those 35 pages, H&M explained how it has worked to decarbonize its supply chain, adopt “sustainably sourced” materials, and scale circular business processes.
Here, according to veteran apparel industry sustainability experts, are three major insights from H&M’s 2024 report — with the relevant caveats:
1. Supplier emissions are dropping — but next steps look tricky
“What stood out was their long-term goal to shift to 100 percent renewable energy with phasing out on-site coal in the immediate future for Tiers 1, 2, and 3 including spinning to the finished project,” said New York-based Chana Rosenthal, founder and principal of reDesign Consulting. “Their efforts to decarbonize are proving beneficial by their reduction in emissions thus far.”
In 2024, H&M shaved down its Scope 3 CO2 emissions by 24 percent compared with 2019 levels. Most reductions came from changing suppliers’ manufacturing practices and energy usage.
“H&M’s considerable investment in sustainability is laudable and their report is edifying,” said Ken Pucker, a senior business lecturer at Tufts University and advisory director at Berkshire Partners.
In two years, the company whittled down the number of coal fired boilers in its Tier 1 and 2 suppliers’ plants from 118 to 27. By 2026, it aims for zero. For example, among H&M’s efforts to encourage its mills to drop coal, it invested in Rondo Energy’s thermal brick batteries for suppliers’ plants.
For the first time, H&M was able to count the 12 Tier 3 operations using coal.
That said, the company grew Scope 3 emissions by 3 percent in 2024, due to a rise in overall material weight and a slight uptick in shipping by air.
Credit: H&M 2024 sustainability report
Indeed, H&M may struggle to reach its aspiration to reduce climate emissions overall by 56 percent 2030, according to Pucker. That target would require 10 percent reductions of carbon each year and no revenue growth, he added.
At the same time, the company’s level of ambitions and disclosures lead those of most peers. For instance, alongside Patagonia, ASICS and Marks & Spencer, H&M is one of only four brands keeping emissions targets in line with United Nations goals of 55 percent reductions by 2030 over a 2018 baseline, according to a Fashion Revolution 2024 report. Behind Puma and Gucci, H&M scored among the top three brands on that “What Fuels Fashion” report.
In addition, H&M updates a public spreadsheet of suppliers every month, detailing more than 6,100 companies from Albania to Vietnam. Some 570 are Tier 1 product suppliers and the rest include fabric producers, tanneries, and dyeing operations. Yet the brand doesn’t similarly identify Scope 3 suppliers, which include materials manufacturing, transportation and other activities.
In 2024, the company invested about $170 million (kr 1.7 billion) in value chain decarbonization. Most of that went to using alternatives to virgin materials, as well as reducing fossil fuels and boosting energy efficiency.
2. Circular business is growing — but only to a point
“Fashion is full of glossy promises,” sustainable fashion expert Anna Blom, of Stockholm, posted on LinkedIn. “This time, we’ve got numbers.” For example, resale and other circular business models doubled in 2024 to 0.6 percent of sales, over .3 percent in 2022.
However, experts agreed that this represents an incredibly small slice of overall revenues. Lauren Fay, a Seattle fashion consultant and founder of BFG Lab, suggested creating a new role, such as “a Chief Returns Officer, to help connect their product team with their returns data for better design.”
Less than 1 percent of H&M’s stores stock resale items, but that has tripled since 2022. In 2023, the brand teamed up with resale platform ThredUp to list secondhand items there.
The promised gains from circularity have not materialized, according to Pucker of Tufts.
Yet Blom found more to encourage. “The signs of decoupling growth from resource use are there, she wrote. “Emissions rose by 3 percent, while material volume increased by 8 percent.”
In 2024, H&M disclosed that it created 524,739 metric tons of products. Although that’s up slightly from the 2023, it’s down from 561,087 metric tons in 2022.
The company spotlighted the use of consumer insights, artificial intelligence, digital product creation to optimize planning and balance production with potential demand, reducing waste across the supply chain.
3. Recycling ambitions are big — but so are synthetics
Toward its 2030 goal of using fully “recycled or sustainably sourced” materials in its styles, H&M reached 89 percent in 2024. Nearly 30 percent of that was recycled, toward a 2030 goal of 50 percent.
Helping that progress was sourcing more polyester from recycled sources. The brand used 94 percent recycled polyester in 2024, closing in on the 100 percent goal for 2025.
But Rosenthal pointed out that this count does not include component materials, such as linings, fill and pocketing. “By including all materials in the production of their product, it would perhaps improve their turnover for circular business models aiding in the product feasibility for recycling,” she said.
“H&M is pulling many levers to start moving towards circularity,” according to Tamera Manzanares, manager of water and company network communications for the nonprofit Ceres, based in Boston. She cited a collaboration with the Circular Design Consortium as an example.
“The potential impact of those efforts, however, will not be realized until the industry solves its core challenge of scaling post-consumer textile-to-textile recycling,” she said. “Notably, H&M is partnering with Infinited Fiber Company and Ambercycle to address that challenge, and Ceres would hope to see H&M and other fashion brands doubling down on efforts to scale systemic solutions for textile reclamation and recycling as a core activity to enable circularity.”
For the past year, H&M has backed a new chemical recycling venture, Syre by committing to $600 million of eventual purchases of circular polyester. The startup is scheduled to open a plant in North Carolina this fall.
But the infrastructure for recycling industrial amounts of textiles isn’t up and running yet, noted BFG Lab founder Fay. Recyclers vying to manage synthetic fiber blends are still relatively young. “Also,” she asked, “with the threat that microfibers pose to our crops and our health, are we holistically considering whether producing mostly recycled fibers is a good idea?”
Although polyester accounts for 22 percent of H&M’s materials, it uses more natural fibers; 55 percent of its products use cotton, and H&M has taken steps to boost alternative sources of cotton, such as by investing in lab-grown cotton startup Galy.
https://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/cropped-trellis_favicon_180x180.png3232sustainablefuturehttps://sustainable-future.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Untitled-design-117-300x94.pngsustainablefuture2025-04-07 17:39:032025-04-07 18:09:333 ways H&M is improving its footprint — and the hurdles that remain
As a partner at Beatrice Advisors, a multifamily office, I often see investors presume that, to move the needle on environmental impact, they must opt for private investments that wire impact into their ethos. This kind of investing approach can be described as having high “intentionality” – it’s deliberate, purposeful and offers measurable outcomes.
But whether you’re an individual investor, family office or institutional investor, a rational, well-built portfolio needs to include public securities (both equity and bonds), given their historic, attractive long-term returns and liquidity. Yet public securities are considered to have low “intentionality” because owning or not owning shares or bonds primarily affects a company’s cost of capital, capital markets access, and provides some signaling value, with limited ability to drive values-based goals at the company level.
So are there ways to make investing in public markets more intentional – and to profit from and increasingly nudge green companies to alter the direction of “brown” ones?
The ‘not in my portfolio’ approach
Let’s start with one unsettling aspect of the impact of investing passively in public securities via ESG metrics and screens: the companies you avoid in your portfolio continue their less beneficial behaviors regardless of your decision to invest. Choosing not to invest in high emitters of greenhouse gases doesn’t make them go away; they continue to exist, and emit GHGs, whether you invest in them or not.
Similarly, if a company sells its worst coal facility, it doesn’t decommission the mine; it sells it to a private operator outside of public markets scrutiny. In some ways, then, investing this way is “greenwashing” your portfolio. Instead of NIMBY, it’s NIMP – not in my portfolio.
Proponents who subscribe to an ESG exclusionary investment approach will tell you doing so creates market pressure by reducing demand for problematic/offending companies’ shares, increasing their cost of capital and sends signals to management about investor priorities.
But companies can still access capital through other investors or private markets, resulting in a missed opportunity to influence corporate behavior through active ownership. There’s also the risk of pure virtue signaling, without meaningful impact.
Here’s an example of how ESG exclusionary selection plays out. Consider Travelers Insurance, which produced approximately 2.4 tons of GHG emissions per $1 million of revenue in 2023 and building materials manufacturer Martin Marietta Materials, which emitted 1,430 tons per $1 million revenue. Where is the lowest hanging fruit if one sought to affect GHG emissions?
If Travelers reduced GHG emissions to zero, it would be the equivalent of just a ~0.1% cut in the emissions of Martin Marietta. Yet prevailing public markets strategy would have you own Travelers and avoid Martin Marietta. It seems logical that the exclusionary ESG investment tends to make brown companies more brown, while green firms really can’t get much greener.
But research by George Serafeim of Harvard Business School, Kelly Shue of Yale School of Management and others suggests that thoughtful engagement with brown companies, backed by meaningful shareholder influence and clear accountability measures, can be more effective than exclusion strategies in driving climate and social progress.
Investing strategies to heighten impact intentionality
To generate greater intentionality in historically passively-held positions in public securities, a more effective approach may be to invest in brown companies – particularly where there’s a prospect and plan for active influence. This can take the form of strategic engagement with companies via:
Direct dialogue with management teams on social or climate priorities and implementation plans.
Proxy voting to support sustainability-focused shareholder resolutions.
Coalition building with other investors to increase leverage.
Setting clear milestones and accountability measures for progress.
Providing constructive feedback and industry best practices.
Effective engagement requires persistent, long-term commitment by you, or your advisors or managers, and should be backed by clear escalation strategies when companies fail to respond adequately. This approach allows investors to maintain economic exposure while actively pushing for positive change.
Another way to invest with more intentionality is to support businesses developing sustainable solutions, by investing in companies focused on renewable energy technologies, energy efficiency solutions, and clean transportation, and/or that cater to narrow wealth-gaps and lack of diverse leadership. If you’re a larger market participant, underwriter or anchor, you can also offer financing for transactional projects that align with your values-based goals.
How to get started
Depending on the size of your portfolio and the level of your involvement, you can work with nonprofits like As You Sow or the Interfaith Center on Corporate Responsibility to leverage their engagement platforms and expertise. Collaborative shareholder initiatives amplify individual or corporate investors’ influence through collective action. Plus you can access their research, voting recommendations and ready-made shareholder proposals. You can also use their networks to connect with other like-minded investors to share best practices and work with their proxy voting services to ensure your votes align with initiatives you agree with.
You can also hire managers that will engage with brown companies as part of their fund activities, or via a separately-managed account (typically with at least $1 million to invest), for a bespoke portfolio that drives shareholder engagement through your values-based objectives.
Public securities are a large and rational component of any investment portfolio. For investors seeking more intentional outcomes from their liquid investments, these strategies can make intentionality more of a dimmer than a light switch, with an ability to slide for more impact.
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The IMPACT Act, a low-emissions cement bill, passed with a large majority in the Republican-held House.
The bill allows states to decide whether they want to take advantage of a $15 billion to implement low-emission cement, concrete and asphalt R&D and initiatives.
The bill was successful in this anti-climate era because funding was already designated and lobbying was strategic.
Despite the divisive state of U.S. politics today, a bill to promote the commercial application of low-emission cement, asphalt and concrete passed through the House on March 25 with a surprising vote count of 350-73.
The IMPACT Act — short for the Innovative Mitigation Partnerships for Asphalt and Concrete Technologies Act and co-sponsored by Rep. Max Miller (R-OH) and Rep. Valerie Foushee (D-N.C.) — is a bipartisan bill that instructs the Department of Energy to establish a program dedicated to advancing the production of low-emissions cement, concrete and asphalt.
“This is such a pragmatic bill,” said Rob Niven, CEO of sustainable concrete company CarbonCure. “It creates strong demand signals to really pull [sustainable concrete] solutions into the market.”
Nonetheless, in a time of frequent and often random cuts to any federal programs related to mitigating climate change, a bill focused on low-emission concrete and passed by an overwhelming majority of the House is reason enough to examine what makes it so special.
It is notable that this bill doesn’t require any additional funding from Congress. Instead, it takes advantage of the available $14.6 billion State Transportation Block Grants (STBG). The money was already allocated by Congress in the 2021 Bipartisan Infrastructure Law, providing states the annual option to take advantage of the funds to preserve or improve highways, bridges and tunnel projects.
Plus, Niven noted, the majority of cement, concrete and asphalt company customers and stakeholders want their product to be low-emissions. And one of the only commonalities between all Congress-members, regardless of party, is the need for roads and and parking lots.
Language for successful lobbying
IMPACT now needs to make it’s way through the Senate, something Niven and his team have been preparing for.
“We’ve had repeated conversations on the Senate side with the sponsors of that parallel legislation,” said Niven. “We’ve had multiple conversations about innovation in the concrete industry and the opportunity with such legislation.” The Senate side sponsors are Chris Coons (D-Del.) and Thom Tillis (R-N.C.).
Crucial to swaying Republican legislators was the language used in advocacy and the bill itself.
“IMPACT creates strong demand signals by empowering the Federal Highways and state DOT’s to be able to use their procurement power to really pull these solutions into the market,” said Niven.
Translation: The power to create these specific markets lies completely with the states.
“Each state has to want to innovate construction materials in the first place, which is one of the reasons that this is a crowd pleaser,” said Joe Hicken, vice president of business development and policy at Sublime Systems, a clean cement startup, “The IMPACT Act really delegates the locus and the ownership to each state that’s actually doing the building of the infrastructure projects.”
How businesses can get involved
Niven noted that IMPACT “equips companies with an R&D program,” meaning that if companies haven’t yet integrated low-emissions tactics into their operations, the legislation would provide funds to do so. In any case, any parties interested in making sure those funds become available should:
Contact your senator to encourage them to vote for the IMPACT Act; and
If the bill becomes law, inform your governor that you want your state to participate in IMPACT-related programs.
[Connect with more than 3,500 professionals decarbonizing and future-proofing their organizations and supply chains through climate technologies at VERGE, Oct. 28-30, San Jose.]
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The pants stand out for their low price point and high percentage of recycled material.
Brands, yarn and fabric makers, working with nonprofit Accelerating Circularity, collaborated to build a circular production system.
The effort demonstrated that blending fiber from secondhand clothes with virgin cotton is technically feasible for denim at scale.
Wrangler’s latest jeans for Walmart are the first relatively inexpensive fashion product to feature a significant amount of recycled cotton from used clothes. The dark men’s jeans, which are also recyclable, debuted on March 7 and were the result of a collaboration with waste collectors, yarn spinners and denim makers to scratch-build a circular manufacturing system.
The $39.99 Accelerating Circularity jeans contain 26 percent recycled cotton, half from pre-owned garments and half from factory discards.
“That is the thing, that it can go to the mass market level,” said Dhruv Agarwal, vice president of innovation and research and development at Wrangler’s parent company, Kontoor Brands. “That is the signal we are sending — that we can do it.”
Although Wrangler made fewer than 2,000 of the new jeans for online sales only, circularity advocates see them as a sign of things to come.
“Wrangler’s Accelerating Circularity jean stands out by utilizing pre-existing waste, effectively giving materials a second life,” said Chana Rosenthal, founder of reDesign consulting in New York City and a former Ralph Lauren denim design director.
“This is a hero story,” said Lauren Fay, founder of the Seattle fashion sustainability consultancy BFG Lab. “I hope that Walmart and Wrangler have aggressive plans to scale this model that is not connected to the ROI on the jeans project,”
The Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans on Walmart.com.Source: Wrangler, Walmart
The effort is Kontoor Brands’ latest experiment to diversify sourcing and therefore reduce dependence on natural resources, including virgin cotton and water, according to Agarwal. However, further mainstreaming circular fashion requires driving down the costs of materials and processes that treat waste as a resource — which policies and advances in chemical recycling could accelerate, he added.
“You cannot just achieve 100 percent recycled; you basically start somewhere,” Agarwal said. “You need to see the economies of scale. You need to see the quality of the product. It’s a dynamic, continuous improvement process.”
Kontoor’s climate targets
Kontoor, which was spun off from VF Corporation in 2019, is based in Greensboro, North Carolina, where Wrangler jeans emerged in the late 1940s as a favorite among rodeo cowboys. Kontoor also runs the 136-year-old Lee and 3-year-old Rock & Republic denim brands.
Using more recycled materials is a small but important component of the corporation’s goal, approved by the Science Based Targets initiative, to shrink emissions by 46.2 percent by 2030 across Scopes 1, 2 and 3 over a 2019 baseline, according to Agarwal.
The company is developing a strategy for “circular pathways” of recycling, resale, upcycling, reuse and repair, according to Agarwal. Designing durable garments with circularity principles is another element. Among Kontoor’s other attempts to advance circularity:
In 2023, a Circularity Working Group at Kontoor began embedding circular principles into product design standards. Designers and product developers also work together with procurement and sustainability staff to incorporate circular principles into garments.
By 2023, Kontoor’s sourcing had reached 74 percent “preferred cotton,” which includes verified recycled cotton, toward a target of 100 percent for 2025.
Kontoor has worked for several years with the nonprofit Accelerating Circularity, which led the partnership to craft the five-pocket Wrangler jeans. Creating a circular production system departed from the typical linear processes of growing a crop, then creating fibers, fabric and a garment that eventually gets thrown away. “We’re making a transformation, and transformation is hard,” said Karla Magruder, founder of Accelerating Circularity.
That effort engaged companies across the apparel value chain. Together, the partners determined how to ensure that the final garment could be recycled, by blending 99 percent cotton with only 1 percent elastane. They settled on mix of mostly virgin cotton, plus waste split between factory clippings and pre-worn “post-consumer” knits, Magruder said.
Magruder likened the process of sourcing waste material — from South America, India and the U.S. — to growing and harvesting a crop for fiber. “This is our feedstock,” she said. “But this isn’t a commodity yet, so we’re having to gather it from scratch and then pre-process it.”
Secondhand clothing trader Bank & Vogue collected used clothes, and Martex gathered the production scrap.Tons of the material was then shipped to Giotex and Estopas, which shredded and recycled it into rough fibers. After that, yarn manufacturer Parkdale Mills spun both the recycled fibers and the virgin cotton into yarn. Cone Denim wove that into denim on production-scale equipment, according to Magruder. Wrangler’s cutting and sewing happened in Mexico.
Accelerating Circularity’s North American pilot projects have recycled 23 metric tons of waste cotton. The organization plans to recycle another 325 metric tons under its commitment to the Clinton Global Initiative Commitment to Action.
What sustainability pros can learn from this project
For Agarwal, working intimately with partners across the value chain illuminated the power of collaboration to change entrenched systems.
That’s important, because the apparel industry struggles with scaling circular production partly because the business case is unclear, according to consultant Rosenthal. “Wrangler’s successful partnership model provides a blueprint for overcoming these obstacles, proving it can be done. But we need robust financial analysis that demonstrates the economic benefits for industry-wide replication.”
Says Magruder: “I want the people who are making products to take something away from this. The sustainability people believe in this already.”
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