In May, 100 days into the second Trump administration, the mood among sustainability professionals was defined by shock, whiplash and acute anxiety. One described feeling helpless in the face of chaos, recalling being an 11-year-old watching their parents fight.

The shock has worn off, replaced by something harder and more grinding: fatigue, pragmatism, and a defiant resolve, according to responses to the latest Trellis sentiment survey, in November.

“It feels like we are in a sustainability recession,” one said. “But I am sure we will eventually come out stronger.”

The sliver of Trellis readers who said they had positive feelings about working in sustainability doubled to 20 percent in the recent survey. Two-thirds of the 167 professionals who responded remain negative about the profession, down from three-quarters in May.

A year after Donald Trump was elected, it’s become distressingly clear that U.S. policy has shifted decisively from encouraging decarbonization to promoting fossil fuels. 

“I’ve seen cycles before,” one professional said. “This year the dips are lower, and it’s difficult to bear witness as good policies and incentives are being thwarted.”

When leaders step ‘off the gas’

Most galling to many was seeing how “corporate leaders have caved” to the new administration by “taking their foot off the gas” or even “fleeing their responsibility.”

“My company is paying to attend banquets to fund Trump’s ballroom, while laying off 30 percent of the sustainability team and rolling back our commitments,” vented one respondent. 

Another described the disturbing “realization that corporate sustainability too often has been an optics play to paper over business as usual.” 

Others saw signs of hope, seeing that at least some “companies with integrity have continued their sustainability journeys.”

Bigger challenges; few resources

“Despite the federal pullback and skepticism around climate, the outlook within our organization and among our partners remains highly positive, ambitious and innovative,” one professional said.

In many companies, sustainability departments, which have always been lean, are being cut back. 

“The challenges are bigger, but the funds are smaller,” one said.

Many now report “constant pressure from the C-suite to prove why my work in sustainability matters.” Some, at least, say they are rising to the challenge: “It’s pushed me to sharpen my focus and make the case for impact every day.” 

Professionals also lamented that their work itself has become more bureaucratic. “I used to be full of hope that I could make a positive impact,” one said. “But the job has been reduced to measurement, tracking and reporting.”

Stay the course

The political minefields and indignities of sustainability work have led some to question the entire profession. 

“I’m discouraged that this is not a viable career field given corporate America’s allegiance to the politics of the moment rather than the future of our society,” one said. 

Indeed, the opportunities to continue working on business climate issues may be diminishing.

“My sustainability position in renewable energy was just eliminated,” one reader said. “The job market seems very, very tough right now.”

Yet more common, even among the most discouraged professionals, was the urge to “stay the course” because “sustainability isn’t a job; it’s a passion.”

“I was extremely upset and fearful about the prospects of the Trump administration reversing environmental regulations,” one said. “Now I see how sustainability professionals are vital to continuing the quest forward.”

The post Mood check: Sustainability professionals today are discouraged but resolute appeared first on Trellis.

Frontier, a carbon-removal buyers coalition founded by Google, McKinsey, Stripe and others, is investing $41 million in a startup that’s developed a “three-in-one” technology that can generate electricity or hydrogen while simultaneously capturing carbon dioxide.

The startup, Reverion, has already deployed its fuel cells on a handful of farms in Germany, where the cargo container-sized system uses biogas, a mixture of methane and CO2 derived from crop residues or manure, to generate electricity. 

The funding from Frontier will allow the company to add equipment to capture the CO2 emitted by the waste and the electricity-generation process. The gas will then be liquified and transported by road to a carbon storage hub.

‘One of the cheapest options’

Frontier’s investment will fund removal of 96,000 tons of CO2 between 2027 and 2030. 

The implied cost of the removals — $427 per ton of CO2 — is high by the standards of the voluntary carbon market, but consistent with Frontier’s mission to accelerate the development of carbon removal technology by funding early-stage projects. Frontier also requires portfolio companies to show a plausible path to selling removals at less than $100 per ton as their technologies scale.

“This is going to be one of the cheapest carbon removal options, because it is taking a pure stream of CO2 that would be there anyway,” said Hannah Bebbington Valori, Frontier’s head of deployment.

Reverion has a good chance of scaling its removals work because of demand from farmers for the electricity-generating part of the process, added Bebbington Valori: “The fact that this is a highly efficient electricity generating system that is driving revenue for farmers is a critical part of what we think is going to be Reverion’s success.”

Frontier’s progress since 2022

Bolting carbon removal technologies onto existing industrial processes is an increasingly popular strategy for a sector where capital expenditure costs are often high. Earlier this year, for example, Frontier backed two projects that capture CO2 emitted from wastewater and pulp-processing plants.

Frontier launched in 2022 with a commitment to buy an initial $1 billion of permanent carbon removal by 2030. It has since spent $670 million to fund 1.8 million tons of carbon removal. 

The Reverion deal is also being backed by Shopify, H&M Group and others. Several additional companies, including Canva, Wise, and Zendesk, participated via a partnership between Frontier and Watershed, a leading provider of carbon accounting software.

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The opinions expressed here by Trellis expert contributors are their own, not those of Trellis.​

Many companies have transformed sustainability reporting into a “portfolio” of disclosures, publishing multiple reports aimed at different audiences. These cover topics such as climate initiatives, sustainability, labor practices and human rights. While such reports provide extensive information, they often fail to present a coherent strategy that addresses stakeholder needs. Producing this library of highly-specialized reports also demands significant effort and expense, at a time when shifting stakeholder expectations, evolving regulations and rapid advances in AI are happening.

An inflection point for reporting

To maximize the value of the resources invested in sustainability reporting, organizations must first ask, “Who reads them?” and adopt disclosure strategies that deliver meaningful impact. By staying ahead of regulatory change and harnessing AI for efficient, data-driven insights, the sector can redefine how sustainability information is collected, developed and shared.

Some companies are already excelling at combining clear, actionable data with engaging narratives that provide meaningful context for the reader. For example, Logitech’s report connects the dots between the data they provide and the actions, strategies and aspirations that reduce their impact on the world. The company uses a sophisticated approach to calculating the carbon footprint of many of their products and quantitative data that shows how their products are affected by this approach, like a 37 percent reduction in the carbon footprint of one of their wireless keyboards.

Companies can learn to produce effective ESG reports by experimenting with these four drivers.

Produce dynamic, targeted content

We live in a world of dynamic digital content and companies need to find ways to do this with sustainability reports. Instead of producing multiple reports that lack a cohesive story, imagine being able to direct and customize content to specific subgroups by using AI-powered tools to help you determine which datasets are most appropriate for different types of readers. 

For example, an investor may be more interested in the financial risks or opportunities, while a NGO representative may want to see content related to a company’s human rights impact data. Some companies also use tools such as ones from EcoActive and Key ESG to customize what disclosures are included for sustainability reporting.

Provide continuous access to quality storytelling 

By using AI, companies can now provide near real-time data back to consumers instead of using time-consuming manual processes by using systems that compile energy and greenhouse gas data from across an organization via direct data feeds, enabling companies to measure and share data almost instantaneously. 

One example of this real-time visibility into sustainability data is from Midcontinent Independent System Operator, an electric grid operator for the central U.S. Through the company’s online portal, viewers can see how much energy they’re generating and the real-time emissions resulting from that energy production. 

That said, companies still need to balance this continuous access to data with thought and care. The reality is that data is meaningless if it doesn’t communicate a key message or theme. Without context, audiences have free rein over interpretation, which is a risk when it comes to maintaining a brand’s messaging. 

Use automated compliance checkers

AI-enabled systems can quickly scan documents and outputs for compliance with applicable laws, flag deficiencies and suggest remedies. As more regulations come into play, such as the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), there will inevitably be more reporting frameworks companies have to comply with. The use of AI tools can play a significant role in ensuring the correct data is being collected and reported at a much faster pace. 

With regulatory and reporting framework compliance more important, data platforms such as Palau, Manifest Climate or Unravel Carbon offer AI-powered solutions where companies can analyze their disclosures and give quick feedback on how well they’re aligning their disclosures with regulations or reporting frameworks. 

For example, our team recently worked with a German manufacturer of HVAC equipment in their sustainability reporting process where we used the Palau platform to assess how well prior disclosures aligned with the current European standards, giving them the opportunity to collect and refine that content prior to CSRD regulations coming into force. 

Connect the dots

AI-driven, real-time data and modeling capabilities also allow companies to connect the dots between strategic decisions and their sustainability performance. By integrating AI into “digital twins” (digital models of processes and the quantitative interdependencies of those processes), companies can project how changes to operations, costs and regulations may affect their business and stakeholders. 

For instance, a company could model the impact of a 10 percent tariff on imported steel and evaluate the resulting financial cost, the change in sourcing options and the effect on its overall greenhouse gas emissions. This information has the potential to transform strategic decision-making as it relates to sustainability performance. It can also help companies explain why certain decisions are made and impacts that are observed. 

By embracing AI, companies can achieve one overarching goal: using data to tell effective stories through impactful ESG reports that support long-term business strategies. 

The post 4 ways to use AI to build stronger ESG reports appeared first on Trellis.

Ashley Allen, an executive who helped shaped Oatly’s well-regarded sustainability strategy, has been named chief sustainability officer at Unifrutti Group, a fruit company based in Abu Dhabi.

Allen occupied the same position at Oatly from 2020 to 2024, during which time the maker of plant-based milks developed a reputation for helping farmers diversify their crops and for setting ambitious climate targets. The company is currently targeting a 40 percent cut in emissions per liter of product by 2030, followed by 70 percent and 89 percent cuts by 2040 and 2050. Earlier this year, it was one of the first two companies to be certified under the Climate Solutions Framework, a label for companies that develop low-carbon products.

Prior to joining Oatly, Allen spent much of her career working on climate strategy within the public sector, including stints at the U.S. State Department and the White House Environmental Council, where she helped launch President Barack Obama’s U.S. Climate Action Plan. 

Fledgling strategy

Allen inherits a sustainability agenda at Unifrutti that is relatively new. According to its most recent sustainability report, the company has measured its baseline emissions but not yet set a near-term target to complement its long-term goal of reaching net zero by 2050. The company plans on making an emissions commitment that’s aligned with the Science Based Targets initiative by the end of the year, according to the report.

Unifrutti produces and trades fresh fruit and vegetables, with Asia and Europe as its biggest markets. The privately held company does not publish detailed financial results, but a company website notes that it employs 11,000 people and has an annual turnover of $700 million.

The post Former Oatly CSO takes the helm at Unifrutti appeared first on Trellis.

The opinions expressed here by Trellis expert contributors are their own, not those of Trellis.​

At the beginning of November, the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) opened our second public consultation for the revision of our Corporate Net-Zero Standard. Designed as roadmap for businesses to navigate a carbon-constrained future, the updated draft proposes a range of new, innovative mechanisms that will not only unlock decarbonization potential across a range of businesses already engaged with the SBTi, but will also make corporate climate action more accessible and actionable to those that are just getting started.

3 overarching themes

The standard puts renewed emphasis on the next five years as a pivotal period to accelerate decarbonization and enable a global net-zero transition by 2050. Creating a standard that stands at the intersection of scientific rigor and actionability is no small feat, but with our expert technical department and perspective from hundreds of businesses and experts, we decided to focus our work around three overarching themes: 

  • Reinforcing ambition through accountability, transparency and planning requirements
  • Enhancing clarity on purpose and scope to align with the latest science, best practice and frameworks
  • Strengthening the validation system

So we created specific technical updates in five key areas to support those themes:

  • An end-to-end cycle that incentivizes ambition and recognizes progress achieved at the end of the target cycle as well as optional spot checks.
  • Diversified Scope 1 target-setting methods, offering more granular pathways, to enable companies to use a more precise range of metrics and benchmarks. 
  • Tightened the integrity for low-carbon electricity purchasing.
  • A focused and flexible approach to value chain emissions that introduces three options for setting targets — emissions intensity, activity alignment and counterparty alignment.
  • Progressive responsibility, starting with a first phase of voluntary recognition until  2035, with a pragmatic approach to the types of credits subject to these having high integrity.

Developing these mechanisms drew on a huge amount of input and assessment of the sustainability ecosystem. We recognized the work of existing disclosure platforms and the Greenhouse Gas Protocol and analyzed, acknowledged and responded to the more than 850 business submissions to our first public consultation. We factored in the latest climate science through extensive research and listened to the perspectives of a diverse range of experts that contribute to our expert working groups.

Next steps for businesses

Already our science-based targets are proving to be a boon for companies. Nine in 10 companies surveyed said science-based targets deliver positive business impact and had positively impacted their climate ambition. Nearly all (95 percent) companies reported enhanced reputation with stakeholders, while 80 percent of businesses reported strengthened investor relations and greater strategic cohesion. Ninety-two percent reported neutral or positive impacts on long-term financial performance.

In addition to these reports, our own engagement with companies has found that businesses with target experience boost performance across four key measures of competitive advantage: strategic cohesion, stakeholder confidence, financial performance and climate impact.

So what can you do now? We’re now half way through our consultation period, but it’s still open until December 12, 2025. Feedback from these processes will help ensure the final standard is practical, credible and robust, helping businesses worldwide accelerate the net-zero transition.

While reaching net-zero was never going to be straightforward, with this updated draft, we’ve recognized the guidance to get businesses there should be. By contributing to our public consultation, you’ll be leading your field by helping turn ambition into action and action into impact for companies all over the world.

The post An inside look at how SBTi’s updated net-zero standard draft came together appeared first on Trellis.

Chinese tech giant Tencent is investing tens of millions of dollars in innovation competitions in carbon removal and other areas as is it looks to cut emissions and define a role for itself as a sustainability leader. 

The company, which generated revenues of $92 billion in 2024 from messaging and payments platform WeChat and other products, has pledged to become carbon neutral by 2030 — with credits used to neutralize ongoing emissions — and net zero by 2050. Major U.S. tech firms, including Microsoft and Google, have similar goals and, like Tencent, are focusing on renewable energy as a core strategy. But Tencent is taking a different path with its additional focus on prizes.

“Our thesis is to accelerate low-carbon technology innovation by supporting first-of-a-kind pilot projects,” said Hao Xu, the company’s head of climate innovation.

Tencent’s first competition, CarbonX 1.0, opened to Chinese companies in 2023. The call for proposals elicited 300 entrants, from which 13 winners were awarded a total of $13 million. Winners included a modular direct air capture system developed at Zhejiang University and technology developed by the startup Feynman Dynamics that converts carbon dioxide into sustainable aviation fuel. 

The funding is designed to help young companies overcome the “valley of death” between laboratory work and commercialization — an issue Xu said Tencent identified as the “real bottleneck” to scaling emerging low-carbon technologies.

Partners get products to market

Alongside the financial support, Tencent is connecting winners with larger companies that can help bring products to market. One example: Suzhou Kunsheng Biodegradable New Material Company, which produces a foam for cushions made from captured carbon, is partnering with HAY, a Danish furniture maker that plans on using the foam in its products.

Last month, Tencent announced 50 finalists for CarbonX 2.0, a global competition with a $28-million prize pot that attracted more than 660 applicants from 54 countries. Entrants span CO2 removal, carbon capture in the steel industry, products made from captured carbon and long-duration energy storage. Product partners in this second phase include McDonald’s China and PepsiCo, with winners expected to be announced next year.

Another benefit: Carbon credits

The funding is designed to drive decarbonization across multiple sectors, but Tencent is also using the competitions to accelerate its own net-zero journey. To fulfill its 2030 carbon-neutral goal, for example, the company will need to retire around a million metric tons of carbon credits annually. Xu anticipates that some of the companies in the competitions will generate carbon credits that Tencent will sign offtake agreements for.

The company is also considering creating a third competition next year, likely smaller in scale, to incentivize commercialization of building materials, which would be used in the ongoing construction of its new headquarters in Shenzhen.

Tech-sector climate ambition

Companies in the U.S. and Europe also fund competitions, including a 2024 innovation challenge aimed at low-carbon materials that was backed by Microsoft. But the most prominent climate-related competitions have been led by XPRIZE, the nonprofit that oversaw a $100 million carbon removal prize and is now developing a methane mitigation competition. Tencent’s approach is notable in the private sector for both its scope and the size of the financial commitment.

The company’s investment in prizes extends its core climate strategy, which is focused on reducing emissions from data centers and other sources. Tencent’s commitment to cut operational emissions 70 percent by 2030 has been validated by the Science Based Targets initiative, alongside its goal to shave 30 percent off emissions from suppliers, product use and other indirect sources in the same timeframe. Longer-term, it’s targeting a 90 percent reduction across all sources by 2050.

Together with Tencent’s 2030 carbon-neutral goal, these targets roughly match the ambition of U.S. tech companies that are seen as leaders on climate, including Google and Microsoft. But Xu argued that the tech sector must pass the baton soon.

“If you look at the decarbonization journey for the whole planet, technology companies shouldn’t be the major force simply because their emissions are limited in absolute terms,” he said. “But we are inspired to be the risk-takers. What we can do is to push the technology forward.”

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The Loop reusable packaging initiative, launched in 2019 as an e-commerce pilot by waste management company TerraCycle and two dozen high-profile brands including Procter & Gamble and Unilever, was a high-profile bet on the idea that people would buy detergents, ice cream, cereals and other products in refillable containers.

Almost seven years later, the only major market where the Loop model has scaled commercially is France, where grocer Carrefour stocks products with reusable containers from companies including CocaCola in more than 300 stores alongside products offered in disposable packaging. 

Consumers pay a deposit as part of the price for goods in reusable bottles or containers, which is returned to them digitally or via cash when they bring the container back. The overall price of the products, however, is less than the alternative offered in disposable packaging — including the deposit. That’s important to encourage participation, according to executives for Loop and Carrefour. 

“This is a point of differentiation,” said Bertrand Swiderski, chief sustainability officer for Carrefour. “You have a consumer that has to come back into your store. This is a value — it creates loyalty. We believe in the future it will be a competitive advantage.” 

Carrefour offers roughly 40 returnable products through Loop, focused primarily on beverages from companies such as Suntory, which sells brands like Orangina and Schweppes in returnable glass bottles. (Suntory’s products are available in about 100 Carrefour stories.)

“We believe that the power and awareness of our brands could be an effective lever for the reuse transition,” said Joshua Galant, sustainable packaging senior brand manager for Suntory Beverage & Food France. 

That said, Galant anticipates “it will take a long time to change purchasing and consumption habits.”

Pivot to retail

At the peak of its experimentation phase, the Loop service was available through limited pilots in the U.S., U.K., Canada, France and Japan. Those countries were picked, in part, because they’re where TerraCycle had on-the-ground resources. 

Loop ran as an online-only service for close to two years, with TerraCycle handling the logistics of collecting empty containers for refill, before including retailers such as Kroger and Carrefour and fast-food chains including McDonald’s and Tim Horton’s in the merchandising and physical collection process.   

For the initial phase of Loop, TerraCycle put $10 million of its own money into the project; now it’s running at a modest profit, said TerraCycle CEO Tom Szaky, who has been personally involved since the launch.  

Getting retailers involved represented a critical turning point for scaling the Loop program, which now includes more than 200 companies and 370 products through an alliance managed by the World Economic Forum, he said.

One challenge with shifting to a reuse model is that it’s more complex for consumer packaged goods companies to handle on their own. “It’s not something, per se, that companies want to implement because it’s not incremental,” Szaky acknowledged.

Some retail participants, including Carrefour, were involved in the e-commerce phase, but enabling consumers to drop off empty containers during shopping trips made a big difference for adoption with both brands and consumers, he said. 

“What made France really work was a courageous and commercially focused retailer who took the reins and really pushed it, and used all their tools,” Szaky said. “You need one retailer who makes it a priority, and not a brand. It’s a retailer because they have to pull all the brands together and convince them to play ball.”  

France: Carrot and stick market

Carrefour’s deep involvement convinced other retailers, including Monoprix and Coopérative U, to get involved, according to Szaky. That was important for building the number of collection locations available for returns. “It also creates the competitive motivation for everyone else to join in,” he said. 

There’s another reason these French retailers are stepping up: France’s Anti-Waste and Circular Economy Law mandates a 20 percent reduction in single-use packaging by the end of 2025 and requires that supermarkets dedicate a certain amount of their shelf space to products with reusable packaging by 2027, especially for food. Businesses pay a fee related to disposable packaging. 

That law is a key reason that reuse is scaling in France, where it has failed to find commercial relevance in places such as the U.S. and other Western European countries, according to the participants.

As new regulations emerge, that’s where Loop will focus on potential expansion. Among the regions where that’s most possible: the U.K., Iberia and Benelux. “You need the carrot and stick approach,” Szaky said.

Best practices emerge

Consumer products companies and retailers considering a shift to reusable packaging can take a cue from what Loop, Carrefour and Suntory have learned. 

The price tag matters. When Loop launched, the idea was that consumers would pay a premium on unique packaging. But to encourage wider adoption, there needs to be an incentive for a consumer to choose the reusable version of a product. “The price must be lower, that is key,” said Swiderski.

Items should be placed with their category rather than in a standalone section. Sales are higher when products in reusable containers are placed on the shelf next to similar options; return rates also tend to be higher, Szaky said. 

Employee training is required. For Suntory, that means a different approach to in-store merchandising, to help potential customers understand the value proposition when it comes to costs and reduction of plastic waste. It’s also an initiative that’s still evolving, which means change management skills are helpful. For Carrefour, the biggest changes were back-of-house, where employees needed to learn how to prepare returns for collection.

Beverages or quickly consumed products do best. Carrefour has found the most success with beer, soda and water, which have a relatively short shelf life. Traction was lower for items such as shampoo or perfume. Szaky figures reusable containers are only appropriate for approximately one-third of all consumer products.

Consumers want options for deposit returns. Reverse vending machines are used in some larger stores. But in small convenience stores, where customers can hand containers directly to a store employee, many prefer their deposit back in cash.

The post How Carrefour got consumers to buy into reusable packaging appeared first on Trellis.

Old clothes are having a moment. Consider:

• At Fashion Week this year, models paraded eBay’s Endless Runway in secondhand styles, featuring Moschino in Milan, LUAR in New York and Niccolò Pasqualetti in Paris.

• H&M opened its second vintage Preloved store-within-a-store in Beverly Hills in November. 

• Buffalo Exchange reports more people trading in used garments this year toward credit on brands like Zara and Madewell.

• Secondhand sales will grow two to three times faster than “firsthand” in the next two years, to $317 billion, according to the State of Fashion 2026 by Business of Fashion and McKinsey.

All together the trend represents a bright spot for an industry expected to squeak out single-digit growth in the year ahead after falling by double digits last year. The report described a “sustainability stalemate” as tariffs and inflation squeeze brands and consumers. 

Resale and other circular business models address these tensions. Indeed, rising “circular” sales made up 27 percent of the luxury market and 4 percent of the mass market last year, according to data from the Mastercard Economics Institute. Luxury reseller Vinted became France’s top retailer by volume this spring after growing net profit past 330 percent between 2023 and 2024.

Resale rising

Many mid-market brands are embracing branded resale, with sales up by 300 percent between 2021 and 2025, according to State of Fashion 2026. Customer demand outpaces the supply for coveted labels.

Services such as Tersus Solutions and Trove provide the logistics.

At its packed Denver warehouses, Tersus Solutions logs, cleans and ships garments and shoes from more than 25 labels. “Brands such as Arc’teryx, New Balance, Dr. Martens and Lululemon have had banner years and are re-doubling efforts to keep momentum going into 2026,” said CEO Peter Whitcomb.

He anticipates sales to soar to 15 times the usual level in November and December, and Tersus has been readying eight new brand and retail partners.

“With each holiday cycle, we’re seeing the resale category grow, and each year the promotions have more of the polish and scale of broader retail campaigns,” said Terry Boyle, CEO of Trove, which provides resale logistics software. Trove surveys show most consumers would happily receive used items as holiday gifts, with nearly 60 percent preferring them over new.

Not so fast

Secondhand storefronts only represented 147 brands as of September, according to data from reseller ThredUp. While that’s up from nine in 2020, it’s hardly the majority of fashion names. So where does that leave thousands of other brands?

Only 7 percent of executives plan to support circular business models and other sustainability efforts, the State of Fashion found. In addition, less than one-third of industry executives called resale a priority for 2026.

Even the most popular secondhand websites represent a sliver of overall corporate sales. 

The North Face, part of VF Corporation, operates its Renewed resale program at the Tersus plant, even refashioning damaged puffer jackets with color-mismatched sleeves. However, Renewed sales reached 96,000 items last year, against hundreds of millions of new TNF products.

Hyper fast

Meanwhile, Shein, Temu and Amazon Haul are rewriting industry rules with nimble logistics, shipping synthetic styles straight to consumers. Hyper-fast fashions expire sooner than many fruits or vegetables.

Despite anti-fast-fashion laws in France, and protests in Paris against a Shein boutique this fall, the brand is bullish about its future there.

Gen Z and Millennials appear to be driving circular sales and the fast-fashion backlash.

But for most people, pre-loved clothing and super fast fashion are not mutually exclusive, according to Cynthia Power, a circular economy fashion consultant and podcast host.

“The same person who shops used to find a vintage treasure will also buy a new t-shirt for $5 without feeling a disconnect,” she said. “One going up doesn’t mean the other is going to go down.”

So much for the values-driven consumer.

In addition to its recent circularity splurge in Los Angeles, H&M is investing in textile-recycling startups and heat batteries for factories. Its Scope 3 emissions dropped in 2024 by 24 over 2019 levels.

Yet activists lambaste the company, and the industry overall, for overproducing. Only 11 percent of the biggest brands even share how much stuff they make, according to Fashion Revolution.

Experts warn of the “elephant in the room,” i.e., overproduction. Brands churn out 80 billion to 276 billion garments each year, roughly 38 percent either returned or never sold, according to Tech Tailors of Amsterdam.

An imperfect circle

Purely circular models also face a reality check. Garments usually wind up in a landfill even after multiple owners, according to Lynda Grose, a professor of fashion design and critical studies at California College of the Arts.

“The growth in secondhand is an additive business for companies,” she said. “It is not displacing the business of producing new goods.”

Resale also serves as a gateway: 43 percent of thrifty shoppers later buy first-hand products from the same brand, according to the State of Fashion.

“Unless all companies commit to growing their secondhand business and shrinking their new product business, we will not see any reduction in energy use, material extraction and post-consumer waste,” Grose said.

The industry needs to think beyond resale, noted Rachel Sheila Kan, a London-based circular economy consultant and former apparel designer. For example, brands can design durable garments for easy recycling — and explore things like memberships, digital experiences and pre-fab design kits.

“These multiple business revenue streams bring this vibrancy back to an industry that has always been one of the most creative in the world,” she said.

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As COP30 enters its final days in Brazil — the first COP in the Amazon region and marking the 10th anniversary of the Paris Agreement — the world’s attention is on climate action. But public priorities extend beyond climate alone. Trellis data partner GlobeScan’s latest research reveals that climate change, war/conflict and extreme poverty dominate global concerns, ranking highest in both perceived seriousness and importance to address.

War and conflict tops the list for seriousness (68 percent), while climate change and extreme poverty are tied for first place in importance (41 percent). These crises are deeply interconnected; climate change drives resource scarcity and displacement, hitting the poorest the hardest and fueling instability. Poverty and inequality create conditions for conflict, while war undermines efforts to build climate resilience and economic security.

Other issues, such as corruption, water pollution and hunger also rank high on perceived seriousness but fall behind on importance compared to the top three. This underscores the unique urgency of climate, poverty and conflict as a combined global challenge.

What this means

As COP30 concludes, expectations for bold climate commitments are high, but progress may be constrained by competing priorities and geopolitical tensions. These interconnected crises make negotiations harder, as countries balance climate ambition with urgent social and security concerns. Public opinion signals that ambition cannot be siloed. Integrated strategies that address climate, poverty and conflict together will be critical to achieving global aspirations moving forward.

Based on a survey of more than 31,000 people in more than 30 countries conducted July-August 2025.

The post As COP30 closes, climate, conflict and poverty dominate public concern appeared first on Trellis.

The opinions expressed here by Trellis expert contributors are their own, not those of Trellis.​

Despite media headlines about government backsliding on climate in North America and Europe, evidence presented at COP 30 in Brazil shows climate policy is actually on the rise globally, with developing countries leading the way. 

Not only are we seeing a diffusion of government climate policy, but trends in the quality, ambition and rigor of climate policies are getting stronger. For example, our Climate Policy Monitor at the University of Oxford spotlights leadership in key Latin American and African nations with strong disclosure rules, including requirements on Scope 3 reporting and engagement — a trend that lines up with recent findings about increased corporate commitments to sustainable procurement.

Also, governments at this year’s COP 30 in Bèlem took to the stage to declare their own commitments to sustainable public procurement. This declaration represents a critical demand signal from governments to the private sector, for sustainable products, processes and practices across their own supply chains.

To deliver on their nationally determined climate contributions, governments have much to learn, and to buy, from companies leading on sustainable supplier engagement, product innovation and industrial collaboration. 

Yet procurement rules in too many countries still require officials to pick the lowest upfront cost option without considering their own stated goals for the future. That decision, repeated millions of times across jurisdictions, entrenches old industries and delays the very technologies governments claim they want to nourish.

Fixing the procurement gap

To fix this gap, 35 countries at COP30 with growing commitments have launched a new collective plan committing to:

  • Embed sustainability in procurement policies
  • Expand green procurement to more spending areas and support local green markets
  • Involve diverse communities in shaping solutions 
  • Collaborate globally to share knowledge and track progress in order to build institutional capacity to advance the sustainable public procurement agenda

A major driver

In advancing this declaration, the Brazilian government acknowledged that public procurement represents 13 to 20 percent of global GDP and drives roughly 15 percent of global emissions. No single buyer on Earth purchases more cement, steel, food, transport services, buildings or infrastructure than the public sector. 

So when governments decide to purchase greener options, markets shift at pace. When they don’t, businesses leading in sustainability are left fighting gravity without demand to justify their investment. Sustainable government procurement policies offer a future in which public promises match public spending. 

Our research on green public procurement across 11 countries shows many co-benefits from such efforts and some inspiring examples of progress. Public purchasers are shifting what they buy, who they buy from and how they buy. For example:

  • Korea, Japan, the EU and India are using national eco-labelling schemes to drive sustainable consumption and signal demand for climate-friendly goods and services. 
  • In Canada and the United Kingdom, suppliers must now meet minimum standards of corporate climate governance, including disclosures and transition plans, before bidding for major contracts.
  • Australia is weaving environmental objectives directly into its procurement law, linking payment and performance to measurable sustainability outcomes. 
  • Brazil and Kenya are using public food procurement to support indigenous and female farmers, proving that social inclusion and climate goals can go hand in hand. 
  • And from Ireland to California to the UAE, green public procurement is transforming construction, reshaping demand for green cement, steel and insulation.

No longer a niche

Companies leading on corporate procurement have taught us that procurement is a strategic engine, not an administrative sidenote. Embedding sustainability into purchasing has helped firms future-proof their supply chains, save costs, protect against risk and spur innovation. 

Governments, with even greater buying power, and public risk can do the same at national scale and businesses need them to. Without strong, consistent public demand for low-carbon goods, even the most ambitious companies struggle to justify investment in new technologies and materials. Green public procurement helps close that gap, often without new or additional spending. It aligns incentives, rewards climate leadership and creates stable demand.

Brazil’s COP30 declaration is more than a policy signal — it’s a chance for governments and companies to finally pull in the same direction towards a healthier future. If countries seize it, they’ll accelerate the rise of clean, competitive industries; if they hesitate, they risk losing their most ambitious businesses, or leaving them without the markets they need to grow.

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